Lifting the Trailer

52weekbreak

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
1,929
Reaction score
4,058
Location
SPAB
After four years of using a gasser to pull my fifth wheel trailer I sucked it up and bought a new to me diesel (2012 3500 with a 6.7 Cummins with 68K). Put the hitch in the box and set height for six to seven inches of clearance between the box and trailer. Pretty obvious I need to put blocks under the trailer springs to raise the trailer because these stupid trucks are so tall even stock. At 5'9 the tailgate still comes to my belly button. Feel like Dorf on golf when standing behind the truck.

Angle is 1 inch per four feet so is 7 inches higher at the front jacks to the rear of the trailer so I am thinking a 4 or 5 inch lift at the trailer axles will come close to leveling it out. I will have to see exactly what I need when I jack up the rear of the trailer.

Any suggestions on where to source the blocks, what to use, installation tips etc.

I guess while I am asking, any thoughts as to steps for the Ram so I can get in the box without looking like Tyrian from Game of Thrones?
 

OVERKILL 19

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
3,420
Reaction score
1,929
Location
Red Deer
Build a rectangular tubing box 6"x2" and weld between frame and spring hangers of trailer. It will span across to both sides making a extension of your trailer frame that will not bend/flex. Do not use blocks!
Some fiver pins are adjustable up /down. But I wouldn't go any tighter than 5" between box top rails and trailer. I bought lower feet for my fiver hitch. Brought it down 1.5".
 
Last edited:

Keith Brown

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
696
Reaction score
1,684
Location
Okotoks Alberta
Over Kill is right on the money. Your new truck has higher rails its not just the bed height. I also installed the axle underneath the springs on a older 5th wheel I had. Which only require installing oem blocks on top of the axle (most axles have camber so don't rotate the axle). This is a lot easier if your axle is over your spring but its still not as good as Overkills mod.
Build a rectangular tubing box 6"x2" and weld between frame and spring hangers of trailer. It will span across to both sides making a extension of your trailer frame that will not bend/flex. Do not use blocks!
Some fiver pins are adjustable up /down. But I wouldn't go any tighter than 5" between box top rails and trailer. I bought lower feet for my fiver hitch. Brought it down 1.5".
 

OVERKILL 19

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
3,420
Reaction score
1,929
Location
Red Deer
Over Kill is right on the money. Your new truck has higher rails its not just the bed height. I also installed the axle underneath the springs on a older 5th wheel I had. Which only require installing oem blocks on top of the axle (most axles have camber so don't rotate the axle). This is a lot easier if your axle is over your spring but its still not as good as Overkills mod.

Ya I've never got lucky enough to have a trailer that I could just flip the springs on top!! Always had to build a frame box. PS I always fish plated the factory frame and the new extension every couple feet, or whatever worked out best..... I know overkill!!
 

52weekbreak

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
1,929
Reaction score
4,058
Location
SPAB
Thanks guys. I would not want less than the 7 inches or so of clearance that I currently have between trailer bottom and truck box. The fifth wheel hitch and pin box are set well from that perspective and I just need to lift the trailer. So if I understand you correctly Overkill, I would obtain an appropriately heavy material rectangular tube and affix that to the bottom of the frame rather than installing a block between the bottom of the spring and the top of the axle. We would weld that in place then install new spring hangers on the new piece. I will take a look at the trailer and see what size I need. I will undertake to report progress as I go.
 

OVERKILL 19

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
3,420
Reaction score
1,929
Location
Red Deer
Thanks guys. I would not want less than the 7 inches or so of clearance that I currently have between trailer bottom and truck box. The fifth wheel hitch and pin box are set well from that perspective and I just need to lift the trailer. So if I understand you correctly Overkill, I would obtain an appropriately heavy material rectangular tube and affix that to the bottom of the frame rather than installing a block between the bottom of the spring and the top of the axle. We would weld that in place then install new spring hangers on the new piece. I will take a look at the trailer and see what size I need. I will undertake to report progress as I go.

I personally wouldn't go higher than 6" rec tube. You might have to go 4" for the cross members due to water/sewer/gas lines. 7" between box and trailer is tons. IMO.
I ran smaller tires when I pulled my fiver to help out too
 

arff

Active VIP Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2009
Messages
139,397
Reaction score
55,128
Location
Leduc
Build a rectangular tubing box 6"x2" and weld between frame and spring hangers of trailer. It will span across to both sides making a extension of your trailer frame that will not bend/flex. Do not use blocks!
Some fiver pins are adjustable up /down. But I wouldn't go any tighter than 5" between box top rails and trailer. I bought lower feet for my fiver hitch. Brought it down 1.5".
This is correct
 

HILCLMR

Active member
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
93
Reaction score
71
Location
Edmonton
Another less labor intensive option would be to do a "Reverse Level" on your Ram, search that on Cummins forum and you will have tons of info, real easy. Just relocate spring blocks so that they sit in different locations, depending on your pin weight though you might need airbags. On my dually I still use airbags when hitched to the 5th wheel, can't stand people flashing me.
My $0.02
 

52weekbreak

Active VIP Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2013
Messages
1,929
Reaction score
4,058
Location
SPAB
Another less labor intensive option would be to do a "Reverse Level" on your Ram, search that on Cummins forum and you will have tons of info, real easy. Just relocate spring blocks so that they sit in different locations, depending on your pin weight though you might need airbags. On my dually I still use airbags when hitched to the 5th wheel, can't stand people flashing me.
My $0.02

I would need to drop 5 inches at the top of the box to get to where I need to be. Not thinking that is an option although an inch or 2 might help. Just a little perplexed as the trailer is a standard 2012 Denali and the truck is a 2012 Ram 3500. Would have thought there would be a kit you could buy to make this simple.

BTW - I don't mind if some people flash me. Others - less so.
 

OVERKILL 19

Active VIP Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
3,420
Reaction score
1,929
Location
Red Deer
Ya I think my 12 mega 3500 was 60" to top of box. My pos Open Range bumper was dragging. I think the front trailer tires barely touched. I think a 2wd 2500 chev might have been low enough. Things you learn I guess. I never dreamt it would be such a pia!
 

Keith Brown

Active VIP Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2014
Messages
696
Reaction score
1,684
Location
Okotoks Alberta
I hooked up a old goose neck stock trailer with torsion suspension on a stock 2015 2500 GMC, you could change the front tires on the trailer on level ground with out a jack. If I tried to lower the hitch the trailer was way to close to the box rails for field work. What a pain, sold the trailer. Didn't trust my self to do position welds on a aluminum frame. Particularly when the trailer runs lots at max GVWs.
Ya I think my 12 mega 3500 was 60" to top of box. My pos Open Range bumper was dragging. I think the front trailer tires barely touched. I think a 2wd 2500 chev might have been low enough. Things you learn I guess. I never dreamt it would be such a pia!
 
Top Bottom