Just a little FYI on the Polaris CFI Engine and surrounding rumors

rmscustom

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Is the case volume on these motors lacking? Does your drop in kit change it?

Since this never got answered and I just found out my kit I got from you in oct is replaced by one with a cylinder shim in November I'm asking again?
 

CUSO

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From a couple of sources...

ACTUAL tests and side by side dyno comparisons by reputable sources show that on RKT's certain products has shown that there was a drop in...

Oh wait. I can't post any facts on here...nevermind.:rolleyes:
 

Rhodesie

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I would way rather buy from a CANADIAN site supporting vendor who uses products from a fellow who's last name rhymes with binderman, than from an american that's always keyboard flogging his products without ever showing dyno sheets.
you guys and your dyno sheets. make me laugh. anyone with any knowledge and experience knows that you can manipulate #'s to read whatever you desire. This is simply the reason why most will not post them. Any reputable mod shop will share the increase but it really comes down to how you can tune and use it. I see no where in this thread anyone keyboard flogging anything, just info regarding the engine and where it lacks. Buy what you want where you want but maybe grow up when posting crap in other's threads. maybe not everyone has had great results from said Canadian site supporting vendor mentioned. Anyway, since when do you have to be a supporting vendor to offer information to people that want to know the facts? I always chuckle when people come on and say "buy Canadian", when the products being pimped come from all over the world.
 

tukernater

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you guys and your dyno sheets. make me laugh. anyone with any knowledge and experience knows that you can manipulate #'s to read whatever you desire. This is simply the reason why most will not post them. Any reputable mod shop will share the increase but it really comes down to how you can tune and use it. I see no where in this thread anyone keyboard flogging anything, just info regarding the engine and where it lacks. Buy what you want where you want but maybe grow up when posting crap in other's threads. maybe not everyone has had great results from said Canadian site supporting vendor mentioned. Anyway, since when do you have to be a supporting vendor to offer information to people that want to know the facts? I always chuckle when people come on and say "buy Canadian", when the products being pimped come from all over the world.
True ,but with that being Said if they show all the info NOT just HP and Torque You can see if there BSing .
 

Briandublanko

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what are you guys clutching for as far as target rpm 7800?

Just saw this sorry for late reply. With the dropin Kit I found it runs the best at 8400. Pulls hard there. If you run it at 8200 or lower I feel it is just slightly better then stock but 8400 theres a good seat of the pants feel in gain there. Don't need a dyno for my butt to feel the difference. Don't get me wrong in the bottom, midrange it pulls much harder then stock but to get the best topend i needed to run mine at 8400
 
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vjc

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Just saw this sorry for late reply. With the dropin Kit I found it runs the best at 8400. Pulls hard there. If you run it at 8200 or lower I feel it is just slightly better then stock but 8400 theres a good seat of the pants feel in gain there. Don't need a dyno for my butt to feel the difference.

Ya mine is clutch for 8400 ......she flat out rocks !!!!
 

Madmudder

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Im new to this forum and my 08 Polaris 600ho cfi, I have torn down the top end and found spi pistons one which is fine and the other has a terribly shrunk or "collapsed" skirt and caused the top of the piston to wear into and stick a ring and cause a ridge at the top, now I'm trying to figure out wether to go with a forged wiseco or hope for a better cast from spi, what is your guys suggested route for new pistons?? All help greatly appreciated
 

Madmudder

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Great question

Here is what we have seen over the years with this engine (dating clear back to the 2008 IQ Chassis)

The pistons, when new, are properly sized... the problem is (and worse since 2011 when they change piston manufactuers) is that the piston does not hold it shape or tolerances.. So, as it runs, the skirt begins to collapse, this "shrinkage" of the skirt allows for excessive piston thrusting (rocking) pressures when the piston STOPS at TDC and BDC. so, as time goes on, the clearance becomes more and more excessive and eventually the piston skirt will fracture and break OR it will fracture the cylinder skirt -->think of a pry bar (piston skirt) "prying" against the cylinder's lower skirt.. this is what is happening. eventually something gives.. sometimes it is the skirt of the piston, sometimes the cylinder skirt.. sometimes BOTH.. The result is always the same.. Catastophic failure.... and the engine is "hooped"

There are several ways to fix this.. We choose to use a VERY special designed piston that is lighter (less mass thrusting) , stronger (speaks for itself) and will hold its shape and tolernances (after 2000 miles or so our pistons will show only .0005" skirt collapse)

So, combining all 3 of these things that are inherent with the piston ,we use, and the risk of failure dimishes GREATLY!! In other wrlds.. take aways the excessive rocking and thrusting and the stress on the associated parts will always be less... We have been using this method for several years and the results are conclusive... The failures seem to be gone.

Some with try and have you believe that the cylinder is wearing.. This is nonsense.. Think of rubbing a piece of wood on a granite rock.. This is what you have with a piston and a NikaSil Plating.. NikaSil is near Diamond in its harness... It takes more than a light steel piston ring or aluminum piston body to wear a diamond.. In short.. the NikaSil is very hard and difficult to wear with a lesser hardness material.

If you are not seeing failures with your current riding group.. Consider yourself fortunate.. But , rest assured,, it WILL eventually happen.. Tell ya what.. pull down 1 of your engines and measure the piston.. (if you have over 1000 mountain miles) if the piston is still in spec, I will send you FREE pistons.. That is how sure I am on this..
Waiting for engine failure is not wise.. once it happens, it will be catastrophic and EXPENSIVE.

Compression checks tell you ZERO.. the issue is at the piston SKIRT not the ring area.. so, you will never get any indication of this using a compression check.

Hope this helps


Im new to this forum and my 08 Polaris 600ho cfi, I have torn down the top end and found spi pistons one which is fine and the other has a terribly shrunk or "collapsed" skirt and caused the top of the piston to wear into and stick a ring and cause a ridge at the top, now I'm trying to figure out wether to go with a forged wiseco or hope for a better cast from spi, what is your guys suggested route for new pistons?? All help greatly appreciated
 

IndyDan

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Its fun to watch how much one person can find the time to forum jump and keyboard pounding and blow his horn about how great he is and how much he knows.

I use Cast, Not Forged - I am a Wiseco Dealer & I am a Wossner dealer.

If I used Forged I would not warranty my Motors period.

Talk is cheap and warranty that is backed second to no one in this business.

For the most part I Have been told I am the only shop with a real warranty. and its in writing on every invoice of every motor that is sold.

2008 thu 2015

2 - New 800 TMX Small Block motors available - 1 - 3 year warranty top to bottom including pistons (cast pistons )

------------------------------------------1 - 5 year warranty top to bottom including pistons ( Cast pistons )
 
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teeroy

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nice to see you here IndyDan. I'm not a polaris guy but have been reading of your work for years on SnoWest. welcome :beer:
 

IndyDan

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nice to see you here IndyDan. I'm not a polaris guy but have been reading of your work for years on SnoWest. welcome :beer:

Thanks teeroy

Sorry to hear your not a Polaris guy that's OK lots of good sleds out there.

I just started building a Ski Doo Long Rod E-tek 800 Motor

Better Rod Ratio Longer Piston life - Motor will have a 3 year Rod & Piston warranty.

Turbo'ed Motors will also be warrantied.

Canadian sales will go through Mountain Magic Motor Sports
 

rmscustom

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Its fun to watch how much one person can find the time to forum jump and keyboard pounding and blow his horn about how great he is and how much he knows.

I use Cast, Not Forged - I am a Wiseco Dealer & I am a Wossner dealer.

If I used Forged I would not warranty my Motors period.

Talk is cheap and warranty that is backed second to no one in this business.

For the most part I Have been told I am the only shop with a real warranty. and its in writing on every invoice of every motor that is sold.

2008 thu 2015

2 - New 800 TMX Small Block motors available - 1 - 3 year warranty top to bottom including pistons (cast pistons )

------------------------------------------1 - 5 year warranty top to bottom including pistons ( Cast pistons )


Seems your pretty good at blowing your horn to. Lol
 

CUSO

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Indydan is the real deal. Trust me. He probably has forgotten more than a few of us combined will ever know when it comes to sled motors.

Seems your pretty good at blowing your horn to. Lol
 

rmscustom

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Indydan is the real deal. Trust me. He probably has forgotten more than a few of us combined will ever know when it comes to sled motors.


I don't doubt that for a second. I strongly considered one of his motors last year and sent both my clutches to him for balancing and was impressed. But as with any good motor guy in the snowmobile world they seem to think pretty highly of themselves and are not afraid to tell you about it. lol
 

sleded1

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Other then ebay, where can we go in canada to buy indy dan motors? Ive got a blown 2012 800 and need to consider something pretty soon.

thanks
 

deaner

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Every post I have ever seen of Indy Dans comes across as very humble and helpful. Im guessing he came across a little strong because he's sick of the snake oil pitch by you know who.
 
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