I need a mountain bike....

NoBrakes!

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new ride, had it out a few times and rode it to work this morning!
 

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Cat401

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Just a heads up all,,, gas powered pedal bike kits are not for everyone,,, if you dont have a tool room,,, patience,,, and get fustrated easy,,, dont do 1,,, they are a bit finicky and need looooots of over seeing...

If you are not the above,,, don't mind farting around,,, then have at it,,, at least you'll find out if your a tool head or not...

Also,,, gas and electric bikes are not allowed on the bike trails in our area,,, so its easieer to ride the urban area,,, back roads,,, trails,,, and other places,,, who wants to do bike paths anyways,,, waaaaay to many humans...



So,,, the options are endless,,, Straight up pedals only,,, gas & pedal,,, or electric & pedal... thats not saying that boots on the ground dont work either...

Us old potato heads normally walk our bikes up the hills once we run out of steam,,, that's ok since it shows us that we're not the dudes made of iron in our younger days... kind of goes with the old drilling rig days...

Years ago rigs were made of wood and the men were made of steel,,, now rigs are made of steel and the men are alcoholics,,, Ha...

Just kidding...

Anywho,,, the pedal bike kits are finky,,, so be warned,,, either they work for you or they don't,,, I'll tell you 1 thing,,, my eyes were open before going this route,,, now those eyes are twice as open... kinda like refreshing the memory card back in the days when we built our own sleds...

Cheers from Lamb-sterrrrr



Electric bikes with "pedal assist" are allowed, but you are right...full electric (or gas) where you don't need to pedal are not allowed.
 

Dakine879

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My son and I love riding the trails in the Edmonton river valley but this guy has trouble getting up those hills. Was considering an Ebike with pedal assist. Anybody on here have any knowledge or advice on brands? I'm mostly a paved trail/ gravel road kind of rider....no jumping...no off roading/rough trails
I don't want to derail the OP's thread, but would appreciate any feedback on Ebikes


i have 8000km on my fat tire ebike, ask away...
 

Cat401

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i have 8000km on my fat tire ebike, ask away...

ask away??......while I'm not looking at getting a fat bike, my riding is mostly hard, mostly paved trails and gravel roads. Was probably looking at a hard tail design. I was more interested in hearing about the e-side of things. Is there a recommendation to battery size? Component type/brands?
Is there anything on yours that you now wish you would have bought ....or did buy but didn't need?
Any brands to stay away from?
 

pano-dude

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ask away??......while I'm not looking at getting a fat bike, my riding is mostly hard, mostly paved trails and gravel roads. Was probably looking at a hard tail design. I was more interested in hearing about the e-side of things. Is there a recommendation to battery size? Component type/brands?
Is there anything on yours that you now wish you would have bought ....or did buy but didn't need?
Any brands to stay away from?
I would stay away from hub based motors, mine is a mid drive motor. It comes as a complete assembly with bottom bracket and cranks.
It is a 48v motor rated at 750watts, battery is a Panosonic 48v. Can't remember the amp hour rating but it is the largest capacity I could get. I have put 35km on and still had a half battery left.
The kit can be put on any bicycle, just have to order the correct width bottom bracket.
The only issue I have heard with e kits is the Chinese battery packs. They are are a fire hazard apparently.
The kit and battery add about 20lbs to the bike.
Luna cycle is the distribution company.
 

Dakine879

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@Cat401


Well just some more info

I have an 11ah battery at 48v and it will last at least 40km riding a solid 25kph on a gravel road, with tires only at like 10psi so if you had more of a commuter bike i'm sure that would go further.

Now that's with no wind and between 10 and 30 degrees, cold temperatures do affect battery performance negatively

standard 2amp charger takes around 5 hrs to charge the battery from 0 to 100%

Unlike an ICE with a low gas tank, You'll notice at the bottom of charge a loss of torque

Like @pano-dude mentioned, mid-drives are the superior design, as they provide more torque, and i think would potentially be an
easier retro-fit onto an existing mtb. also they have a torque sensor on the peddle assist mode, which is smoother than the usual cadence sensor on a hub that has a binary, on/off feel to it.

that being said, there are lots of great hub bikes, i wouldn't hesitate to buy one again. a good thing about hub drive is if you break your chain, you can still get home, just use the throttle, you can't do that on a mid drive, and yes this has happened to me and it saved me a 5 mile walk home. most of the affordable entry level ebikes will have a 500W nominal 750W peak motor to adhere to ebike legislation

i would highly recommend a bike with an independent throttle, i use mine all the time

its just so damned convenient when getting back to speed after a stop sign, or needing full electric assist for a sharp yet short incline and then you don't have to shift the controller from 1 to 5 and then back down again, just give the throttle a twist and you have your power. or maybe you don't feel like pedalling anymore, just go.

bafang is the go to brand for hub drives and mid-drive retrofits (bbshd and the new ultra which i believe is like 3kW peak which is wild)

bosch and yamaha make them, but i think they are more for OEM installs on highend Eurobikes

Here are some Canadian ebike companies to look at

biktrix
surface604 (i have an eyeball on the Shred)
voltbike
radpowerbikes.ca (just the canadian arm of an american company)
amego/ncm

ebikes.ca have lots of info and parts to build your own

r/ebikes is a good resource too
 

Cat401

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Thanks for the info.
While adding a kit to an existing bike sounds cool, I don't see myself heading in that direction. I was just looking at purchasing a factory installed pedal-assist style bike. I'm not in to aggressive style riding...just a way to get this old fat guy to be able to keep up with my son on the paved trails and gravel roads. We'll go out for the day and put 40-50 km on our bikes but those damn hills are my enemy. I find I am walking and pushing my bike up too many of the hills where with pedal assist I think I could continue riding.....I think....

Although I have never spent more than a couple or three hundred bucks on a bike, I know I am going to spend probably $2500-$4000 (I know some are waaay more $$).

I'll probably keep this bike for many years and I am looking for advice on possible brands/features to look for and also to stay away from.

My last bike was from United Cycle and I will go talk to them one day once they re-open. But in the meantime, if anyone has some advice they want to share, please do and thanks.
 

Cat401

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@Cat401


Well just some more info

I have an 11ah battery at 48v and it will last at least 40km riding a solid 25kph on a gravel road, with tires only at like 10psi so if you had more of a commuter bike i'm sure that would go further.

Now that's with no wind and between 10 and 30 degrees, cold temperatures do affect battery performance negatively

standard 2amp charger takes around 5 hrs to charge the battery from 0 to 100%

Unlike an ICE with a low gas tank, You'll notice at the bottom of charge a loss of torque

Like @pano-dude mentioned, mid-drives are the superior design, as they provide more torque, and i think would potentially be an
easier retro-fit onto an existing mtb. also they have a torque sensor on the peddle assist mode, which is smoother than the usual cadence sensor on a hub that has a binary, on/off feel to it.

that being said, there are lots of great hub bikes, i wouldn't hesitate to buy one again. a good thing about hub drive is if you break your chain, you can still get home, just use the throttle, you can't do that on a mid drive, and yes this has happened to me and it saved me a 5 mile walk home. most of the affordable entry level ebikes will have a 500W nominal 750W peak motor to adhere to ebike legislation

i would highly recommend a bike with an independent throttle, i use mine all the time

its just so damned convenient when getting back to speed after a stop sign, or needing full electric assist for a sharp yet short incline and then you don't have to shift the controller from 1 to 5 and then back down again, just give the throttle a twist and you have your power. or maybe you don't feel like pedalling anymore, just go.

bafang is the go to brand for hub drives and mid-drive retrofits (bbshd and the new ultra which i believe is like 3kW peak which is wild)

bosch and yamaha make them, but i think they are more for OEM installs on highend Eurobikes

Here are some Canadian ebike companies to look at

biktrix
surface604 (i have an eyeball on the Shred)
voltbike
radpowerbikes.ca (just the canadian arm of an american company)
amego/ncm

ebikes.ca have lots of info and parts to build your own

r/ebikes is a good resource too

I looked over the shred....I like it!
 

pano-dude

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Most bike manufacturers are making ebikes now. Giant, Trek, Specialized, Norco all have mid level hard tail ebikes. A friend has a Norco hardtail ebike and he commutes to Panorama with it from town, it's 18km. Probably going to cost $3000 to get into one.
 

NoBrakes!

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Third week of riding to work, getting easier. Its 20KM round trip, not one way... I was wrong. I'm down to about 22-23 minutes now, one way.

My new bike is 18 speed (2x9), I miss the 27 speeds (3x9) of the old one. shifting the front ring is a much bigger change and usually requires a rear shift too... Glad I didn't go with the 1x10 I looked at!
 

pano-dude

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Third week of riding to work, getting easier. Its 20KM round trip, not one way... I was wrong. I'm down to about 22-23 minutes now, one way.

My new bike is 18 speed (2x9), I miss the 27 speeds (3x9) of the old one. shifting the front ring is a much bigger change and usually requires a rear shift too... Glad I didn't go with the 1x10 I looked at!
You still have the same gear ratios on a 3x8, 3x9, 2x10, 1x11 or 1x12 drivetrain
My 1x12 drivetrain is 30t front and 10-50t rear.
Most 2x10 are 24-36 front and 12x 36 rear.
 

NoBrakes!

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I just find myself in spots where the transition from 2 down to 1 is too big, I could probably just ride better lol. The 3 ring seemed to be more forgiving in the middle, where the 2 handcuffs you to a bigger change. As my getaway sticks get stronger, I'm sure it'll work out fine.
 

pano-dude

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I just find myself in spots where the transition from 2 down to 1 is too big, I could probably just ride better lol. The 3 ring seemed to be more forgiving in the middle, where the 2 handcuffs you to a bigger change. As my getaway sticks get stronger, I'm sure it'll work out fine.
It will take some time to get used to having 2 rings up front, being in the right gear at the the right time makes a difference. Wait to long to shift and you need to many gears in a hurry.
This is the benefit of one chain Ring up front, no dicking around with an extra shifter.
Really want to get fancy? New wireless electronic shifters and derailleurs can be tuned into a GPS track.
Also wireless seat post droppers are the out there now.
 

NoBrakes!

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you hit the nail, right gear at the right time. keep rpm up and stress down. the new tech is crazy for sure, I don't need a post dropper but could use a shock in the post for sure.
 

NoBrakes!

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with the 2 ring shifter, I can go way past 2 almost into where 3 should be... is there a physcal stop I can adjust or something that can be done? It has happened twice and feels like I'm stretching the cable...
 

FernieHawk

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you hit the nail, right gear at the right time. keep rpm up and stress down. the new tech is crazy for sure, I don't need a post dropper but could use a shock in the post for sure.


Dropper seat posts are the Cats Meow...absolutely love mine and use it all the time...every time I come to a stop on the trail and any hills that are sustained and somewhat steep. 99.99% of the people that have them love them, although I do know someone that is in the .01% that don't care for them, but he is just to lazy to use it properly.
 
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pano-dude

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with the 2 ring shifter, I can go way past 2 almost into where 3 should be... is there a physcal stop I can adjust or something that can be done? It has happened twice and feels like I'm stretching the cable...
Yes there is a high and low stop screw.
 
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