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And once agian, you would be the man you know....lol....
Homemade screen kit for Rev
- Thread starter xtremegriz
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i got the pet screen form home depot... crappy tire didn't have the pet screen... i also made one for the air intake for i find the sock will let snow in when you wipe it...i am also doing the vents on the top of the hood... because i have had to many people walk by and use it to stop them from sinking in the snow and on the rev the clips just do not hold up and they fall off... has anyone had any problems with putting screen right by the shocks
RETODD
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Awesome job...!!!!
dooryder
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i wanna see some pics, gotta get some ideas for mine
Sure i will post some pic's tomorrow
the first 2 pic is of the airbox on the side panel there were holes there already just made them bigger and glued prefilter on it... the hood grill i put pet screen on them and rivited it on.. the clips are junk... the air intake glued prefilter to the aluminum then rivited it on the rest are bought vent kit
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dooryder
XP V.I.P. Member
is your bumper aluminum? if so whered you get it?
haha well the plastic is a tree magnet so haha.... no it is not all aluminum just the front part that i fixed after hitting a tree(more than once haha) next time i come to blue river i will let you know and you can come see it and i will tell you how i made it.... i stay at the Holly Smoke
dooryder
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well i am neighbours with robin so i will probabaly see it next time im up
Junior Highmark
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Hmm im gonna have to try this!
mach123
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Sumx54, where those copied by the vent guy in the states, custom vents or what. I think I have seen them on his site or somwhere. HMMMMM They look great you should make us some......LOL
sumx54
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Call Osprey Light Weight and Machine in Blue Ridge, 780-648-2096 ask for Brad or Kevin. They have the templates that we designed in there Water Jet machine. They can cut them out and send them to you. I just used fiber glass screen and Loktite clear super glue for the screen. Its time consuming but the results are great and way cheaper than buying the kits. Good Luck.
You cat would be diff. I made my own it was aircraft alum. $10.00 and lots of time.
Black Cheep
Active member
I am failing at getting my company off the ground this year. I have the vent kits and cut and finished. They are cut from 14 guage aluminum (.063), and are brush blasted (mild sand blasted) and then powder coated. from there I use a poly-scrim that is almost impossible to tear under the frame. The frames design gives you a bit of bling bling while providing great structural support. All vents on the clutch side also have a hydrophobic material under the poly that does not let any water or snow through. I am asking;
$50 for the back frames (pr pair with or without the iron crosses)
$60 for the front frames
$70 for the top frames
$40 for the lower back frames.
I believe I have black, blue, yellow and silver powder coated frames, and your choice of black, yellow, red, and blue for the mesh. The frames come with the matching colored rivets and instructions. If you are interested you can send me a PM or reach me at randy@frankensled.com.
Looks like I am having trouble uploading so here are a few posts.
Thanks,
$50 for the back frames (pr pair with or without the iron crosses)
$60 for the front frames
$70 for the top frames
$40 for the lower back frames.
I believe I have black, blue, yellow and silver powder coated frames, and your choice of black, yellow, red, and blue for the mesh. The frames come with the matching colored rivets and instructions. If you are interested you can send me a PM or reach me at randy@frankensled.com.
Looks like I am having trouble uploading so here are a few posts.
Thanks,
Black Cheep
Active member
SKI-D00
Active member
Hey, does anyone know if having too many vents has any ill effects on performance? Or for that matter, is there such a thing as too many?
-looking for suggestions on placement as well, riding a 2010 summit-
Thanks.
-looking for suggestions on placement as well, riding a 2010 summit-
Thanks.
Black Cheep
Active member
From a manufacturer's perspective, you can never have enough. Even vent kits on vent kits are recommended. Sorry, just had to throw some hummor in there. For what it is worth, here is my two cents.
The object of the vent kit is not to keep opening up more of the pannel, but to eliminate any dead air. I will post a few pic's, but on my rev I have made a small plate that covers the perforated aluminum at the very toe of the pocket where you stand. I am finding that our chasis were made for trail riding. They probably sell 50 or 100 to 1 trail sleds to mountain sleds. For this reason they focus on trail qualities as oposed to mountain qualities. The reason I say this is the perforation at the toe pocket is to push the heat from the exhaust or clutch down and heat your feet. This probably works quite well at 50 mph, but at slow ground speeds and wide open throttle pushing powder, I don't think that works nearly as well as one would hope. By opening up area's like the side and the back of the hood, air flow is once again greatly promoted. As far as to many, if your window is half down or all the way down on the highway, do you notice that much of a difference? My opinion, no. I am a big fan of getting the vents to work together. I feel the back vents are very helpful as the air tries to come in from the front, then has a place to exit. A front/back, front/side, front/back combination are where the money is at. You can get away with less, you can put more, but properly placed is best. The larger the vent, the more airflow, the more material you took out of the sled (weeker you made the panel). That is why I have the shapes. I don't by any means think that is the be all end all answer, but it does help when you roll the sled or bump trees. Side vents are at a slight risk of more damage when you are brushing something, and if you are going to damage a front vent, then generally you are going to have some other issues regardless if you have a vent or not. I am not a big fan of the drill holes in a panel. It works a little, but I think of it as breathing through a straw. Some guys use hole saws, that is better. i also promote the idea of drilling holes at the corners and then cutting the center sections out. This way there are no corners on the install which would under impact promote cracking. All is preference. Kind of like how you stop a crack from spreading.
Wow, that is verbal diarrhea. One last thing. I will post a pic of the little plate I made to block the airflow in the foot pocket. Combined with my tunnel insert I find that there is little to no icing on the tunnel. My crack perception is that the heat coming out of the pocket hits the powder and then causes the snow to melt, then stick to the tunnel. I only blocked mine off to try the concept, plus I run a vent just above the pocket to restore the air movement that I blocked off. I will post the pic probably tomorrow.
Please take this in stride as I have been called an idiot at the best of times.
Cheers,
Randy
The object of the vent kit is not to keep opening up more of the pannel, but to eliminate any dead air. I will post a few pic's, but on my rev I have made a small plate that covers the perforated aluminum at the very toe of the pocket where you stand. I am finding that our chasis were made for trail riding. They probably sell 50 or 100 to 1 trail sleds to mountain sleds. For this reason they focus on trail qualities as oposed to mountain qualities. The reason I say this is the perforation at the toe pocket is to push the heat from the exhaust or clutch down and heat your feet. This probably works quite well at 50 mph, but at slow ground speeds and wide open throttle pushing powder, I don't think that works nearly as well as one would hope. By opening up area's like the side and the back of the hood, air flow is once again greatly promoted. As far as to many, if your window is half down or all the way down on the highway, do you notice that much of a difference? My opinion, no. I am a big fan of getting the vents to work together. I feel the back vents are very helpful as the air tries to come in from the front, then has a place to exit. A front/back, front/side, front/back combination are where the money is at. You can get away with less, you can put more, but properly placed is best. The larger the vent, the more airflow, the more material you took out of the sled (weeker you made the panel). That is why I have the shapes. I don't by any means think that is the be all end all answer, but it does help when you roll the sled or bump trees. Side vents are at a slight risk of more damage when you are brushing something, and if you are going to damage a front vent, then generally you are going to have some other issues regardless if you have a vent or not. I am not a big fan of the drill holes in a panel. It works a little, but I think of it as breathing through a straw. Some guys use hole saws, that is better. i also promote the idea of drilling holes at the corners and then cutting the center sections out. This way there are no corners on the install which would under impact promote cracking. All is preference. Kind of like how you stop a crack from spreading.
Wow, that is verbal diarrhea. One last thing. I will post a pic of the little plate I made to block the airflow in the foot pocket. Combined with my tunnel insert I find that there is little to no icing on the tunnel. My crack perception is that the heat coming out of the pocket hits the powder and then causes the snow to melt, then stick to the tunnel. I only blocked mine off to try the concept, plus I run a vent just above the pocket to restore the air movement that I blocked off. I will post the pic probably tomorrow.
Please take this in stride as I have been called an idiot at the best of times.
Cheers,
Randy
Black Cheep
Active member
Here are a few pic's of the back of my vent kit, as well as the material that I use. The adhesive sticks very well to the powder coating and the poly-scrim, as well as the hydrophobic material that I use on the clutch side. The hydrophobic material is pretty much the same as what they market as frog skin.
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