Grizz 700 Clutch Advice

[whoDEANie]

Instead of installing shimms, I've had my primary sheave and cam plate machined. Then, when I had it dyno'd in spring, I was told that it is shifting at 6000 rpm but my peak power is at 6500. I still have the stock srping in the secondary so if I swap this for a stiffer spring (orange?), think that will raise my shift to roughtly where it needs to be without having to mess with weights? ...I am turning 28x12, 28x11 zillas.

Also, will the stall springs cause my wet clutch to wear much faster? Will the quad still be able to start smoothly or will it jump a little when the clutch engages?

Any advice or past experiences would be greatly appreciated.

 

[grizzlymud]

Orange is almost the same as stock, go with a purple, not sure if it will raise your shiftout 500rpm though. Which stall springs are you wanting to run? 500 or 1000? The engagement is still fairly smooth but not same as stock. They are little harder on wet clutch but not much.

 

[whoDEANie]

Orange is almost the same as stock, go with a purple, not sure if it will raise your shiftout 500rpm though. Which stall springs are you wanting to run? 500 or 1000? The engagement is still fairly smooth but not same as stock. They are little harder on wet clutch but not much.

I think I would only do 500's if I still want more snap once the clutch is dialed in. Is there some magic rule of thumb for the weights? ...like so many grams per 100 RPM?

 

[grizzlymud]

Yea I ran the 1000's for one ride and didn't like them, good for racing but not for trail riding. Ran the 500's for few years. The weights in the primary work with the secondary. Different weight of machine, power output, tire size, rider etc all play a role in the shift out. And without a factory tach takes a lot of playing, you can buy a cheap tach and use it for tuning.