Ball joint or hub bearing?

OVERKILL 19

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Oh and don't cheap out on ball joints.

The cheap ones I have seen and installed were loose right from the box.

Just by the OEM replacements with the grease nipple on the lower ball joint at the top edge. Some u can't leave the 45 nipple in cause it hits the axle joint cause its in the center.

Best is moog or Spicer ( but Spicer are not quite as good )

sent from my htc
I agree totally if this truck was a keeper. I always try to buy Moog. The ones he sold me are not the worst, but nowhere near a Moog or Carli. If I was keeping it I'd spend the $.I'm thinking the play in the ball joint is just a quinsadence. I just had a out of Provence inspection done. So if it's out of spec they would have flagged it! I'll jake her up tonight and see if a u joint is gone.
 
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Chrisco

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I agree totally if this truck was a keeper. I always try to buy Moog. The ones he sold me are not the worst, but nowhere near a Moog or Carli. If I was keeping it I'd spend the $.I'm thinking the play in the ball joint is just a quinsadence. I just had a out of Provence inspection done. So if it's out of spec they would have flagged it! I'll jake her up tonight and see if a u joint is gone.

The axle u joint will be fuc$ed... after you jack it up turn the wheel all the way to one side and spin the wheel by hand if it binds there fuc$ed.Ball joints do not cause the steering wheel to kick back on a turn. like the boys said if there is up and down movement thats ok as long as there is no side to side. Give me a shout and I will tell you how to get the bearing out of the spindle without fuc$ing it up because they cost $500.00 each.

Call me its worth the dime. Chris 780-963-0080 or 780-217-9141
 
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tex78

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U could be a nice guy and just tell him our trick of the trade

sent from my htc
 

OVERKILL 19

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I did the turn the wheel all the way to right then turned the 4 hub bolts out 3/4 the way out then found a socket and stubby extension just long enough that when straighten wheel out the socket/ extension pushes the hub out. It works pretty slick!
 

tex78

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See cris. He figured it out via google and you tube how to do it.

That is the trick yes with the power steering.

Make sure u antisize the spindle and hub face.

Make it nice for the next guy cause it could be u


sent from my htc
 

OVERKILL 19

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See cris. He figured it out via google and you tube how to do it.

That is the trick yes with the power steering.

Make sure u antisize the spindle and hub face.

Make it nice for the next guy cause it could be u


sent from my htc
Another trick I found today. For those who have any basment telaposts laying around???? The top post is the pefect size for pressing out the bottom ball joint. I will take some pics tommorow. I cut a bunch of different lenths. Worked great ! But For the next time Im gunna weld some flat plate on one end of each tube "less fumbling with tube,plate and C-Clamp Press.". Going to rig up a magnet to hold it all in place too...maybe
 

OVERKILL 19

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I still need to find the trick for getting the rotor off.......easily. Mine was a bit(h
 

OVERKILL 19

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U could have left it on the hub eh.



sent from my htc

Not mine....I dont think anyway the ABS sensor has to be taken off to get axel out. and I did the ball Joints while I was there..probably could have got away with not doing them but for $46 for one and $80 for the other...good learning!
 

OVERKILL 19

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Anyone know the torq spec for these buggers? My book does not show DRW. only SRW no listing for the drw spacer! I would guess 125ish
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347049687.728799.jpg
 

OVERKILL 19

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Heres the ball joint press kit ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347053043.438089.jpg

Here's the spacers I cut out of a tela post I had laying around !
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347053090.644229.jpg
 

growly

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Typicial dodge thing..No grease fittings so the ball joints are toast at 60,000 km..Nothing against dodge,but like come one ,have them so there greaseable

The main reason is people are too lazy nowadays to grease ch!t.
 

OVERKILL 19

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Not if you disconnect the other end behind the inner fender.

True but then its another trip to the stealership to get all new plastic wire holders that always break. Plus having the rotor on makes for even tougher getting axel in / out without fawking up the inner seal and changing the u joint with it on is just that much heavier to handel.
 

growly

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True but then its another trip to the stealership to get all new plastic wire holders that always break. Plus having the rotor on makes for even tougher getting axel in / out without fawking up the inner seal and changing the u joint with it on is just that much heavier to handel.

Rarely break them,the only exception is the one that is right at the frame at the brake line and a zip tie fixes that.Take the hub and rotor off as a unit leaving the axle in the tube,pull axle out,change u-joint,reverse to install. If you leave the rotor on it actually makes it easier as the rotor gets a large rust build up around the hub making it almost impossible to get it off without messing up the rotor.On a dually,the cotter pin is a little tricky to get in,but it's doable.
 
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