Avid Chainchase install question?

[captain extreme]

Looks pretty self explanatory. I don't have a copy of the instructions. Does any one have and tips etc? Any pictures? Mostly concerned with how much I need to cut out? If some one has instructions if they could sent the
To me it would be great!

Also whats the best way to Measure for the skid set back? I believe it's an inch down and back?
Thanks any info is greatly appreciated

 

[Spanky]

Call Chris at Parkland Motorsports in Stony plain. 780 963 0080 he installed mine last year.

 

[pfi572]

Great right up over on Snowest by this fellow if you havent seen it. Copied in case people are not paying for Snowest.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=281393


I Just completed this project with a C3 Syncrodrive on mine. I don't have pictures but I can walk you through it. I didn't have instructions. Here's my Reader's Digest version:

Teardown:

Follow the steps in the service manual(if you don't have one, get one) to remove the jackshaft/secondary and track shaft/track. Grind the heads off the rivets from the inside. The pyramidal chassis structure bolts to a tab on the top of the chaincase. Heaven help ya to get at the backside. Remove enough bodywork to access the other ends of those rods and disconnect them from the other ends, one near the steering post and the other at the clutch tower. There are miscellaneous other things(wiring and other BS) tied to everything in there so be patient and clear out the space you need. The chaincase and those two crossmembers will come free as one assembly.

Mockup:

Now take your pick: either this part will make you cry or final assembly will after you've done this wrong. Just kidding-there are some critical bolt holes in the chaincase and clutch side bearing relocator which pave the way for you here; in fact, 3 of the 5 holes in the side of the tunnel lined up and another was almost perfect. The fifth is a bit tricky, more on that later. The horizontal plate will fit exactly where the old one did, you'll drill the holes ONLY after the chaincase sits flush against the tunnel. You'll have to cut the foot boards enough to wrestle the new case into a position where the new bearing cup can sit flush against the tunnel. Cutting the rolled lip off the bottom of the tunnel will be required.

Using longer bolts than what you'll use for final assembly, approximate the location of the chaincase such that you can trace around the outside of the bearing cup with a felt or scribe it with an awl. The you can drill a couple reference holes where the marks terminate at the existing opening. Find something that is the same diameter as the bearing cup and trace around it using your reference holes from the inside. It's easier to work from the inside of the tunnel. We used a drill, connecting small holes and working our way around for lack of special tools. It's good to have a buddy watch and guide you from the outside. We rounded things smooth with a cone stone.

Once you have the opening enlarged it will bear the rough sillouette of an 8 and you can try lining the case up. There is a lip at the front near the E-module which may hang you up. Grind this down until it's out of the way. You may find that one of the bolt holes toward the rear doesn't quite work anymore now that the case is flush; just chase it with a 1/4" bit. The fifth hole- I got a canadian tire drill 90 attachment to drill the final hole deep in the footwell. You can now secure the chaincase to the tunnel for final mockup and, using a 1/4" bit drill upwards through the bulkhead drill the 2 holes through the anchor plate.

Disassemble the two chassis crossmembers from the old chaincase and place them back in the chassis, securing them at their opposite ends. You will use these to determine your hole location on the top tab. Mount them in a forward location relative to where they would sit after final assembly. Remember, if this hole is wrong it will distort the clutch tower. Thread the drill bit through both eyelets positioned on the front of the tab(they will be assembled as stock on the rear afterward) and use them as a guide to drill the hole.

The clutch side bearing relocator has two holes on tabs which protrude from one side. Their placement is no accident; simply use the stock brake caliper bolt holes to orient, trace and remove the required material(I'm not pounding all that out again). By now you'll have a handle on this.

I'm in Calgary, pm me your email and I'll help you with any other information.

Cheers

​

Oh, for the skid relocation call the Racers Edge. They have a set of rear relocation brackets/braces. They slip on over your stock brackets. For the front, drill the rivets out of the doubler plate which reinforces the mounting hole. Enlarge the lowe/rear hole to use as your new mounting location. Turn the doubler plate vertically and reinstall it using new holes. The whole suspension move procedure done this way should take less than an hour.

 

[captain extreme]

right on Thanks alot!!!, we ended up getting it all in place Sunday, I built a template of the chaincase which really help out for dilling that one hole in the foot well because I was able to mount it on the inside of the tunnel, must of had the thing on and off 20 times lol, double and triple checking everything. Over all install went almost exactly as you said in your write up. Sent it off to powder coat monday morning! Cant wait till my next days off cause mock up is complete of all the parts and now its assembly time!

Thanks Again.

 

[FranktheTank]

Hey guys im doing the same install on my xp. Had a few questions with the brakeside bearing re-locator. Do you guys cut the 2 tabs off after you make sure you get the driveshaft straight to the bulkhead. Also i am guessing you dont need that bearing housing plate that had those two tits on it too make sure it sat straight.

Front View

This look right too you? I bolted those two tabs to the top brake caliper holes. I just have to drill out the 4 holes and cut the hole out more for the driveshaft.

 

[captain extreme]

I honestly don't remember having any alignment tabs on my Avid brake side relocator? looking good so far!

 

[captain extreme]

 

[FranktheTank]

That bearing housing (that plate that sat between the frame and the caliper. Its no longer needed i am thinking? Also did you have the brakeside bearing off the shaft for the install? or did you leave it on and put the new bearing relocator between the drivers and the bearing? The alignment tabs I was talking about are the two top fingers on the bearing relocator cause there really not needed once you get your holes cut and drilled.

Thanks for the pics

 

[captain extreme]

That bearing housing (that plate that sat between the frame and the caliper. Its no longer needed i am thinking? Also did you have the brakeside bearing off the shaft for the install? or did you leave it on and put the new bearing relocator between the drivers and the bearing? The alignment tabs I was talking about are the two top fingers on the bearing relocator cause there really not needed once you get your holes cut and drilled.

Thanks for the pics

That bearing housing (that plate that sat between the frame and the caliper. Its no longer needed i am thinking?, I'm trying to remember which plate your talking about, its funny a guy forgets over the summer, have had these thing torn apart so many times too!!

Also did you have the brakeside bearing off the shaft for the install? or did you leave it on and put the new bearing relocator between the drivers and the bearing? Yes, if I remeber correctly had to remove it to install the new, AVID Relocator peice.

The alignment tabs I was talking about are the two top fingers on the bearing relocator cause there really not needed once you get your holes cut and drilled. oh! are you talking about the ones used in the existing holes for mock up? I left mine on, exactly how it is in my picture. But I do think I have some small track rub on them.

Mike

 

[FranktheTank]

Yeah those are the tabs I was talking about I heard some guys cutting them off due to track rub. Figured that brakeside bearing had to come off, I am changing drivers too so will have them press the bearing off at the same time. Here is a pic of that plate I was talking about it serves no purpose anymore with the new bearing relocator in there so it must not be used.

 

[captain extreme]

Yep! will have to take off the bearing to remove that ring, install new ring and press bearing back on.

Thats a good Idea to cut those off, may do the same thing, start a thread on doing that and see how its working for everyone. Will be taking my track out and changing drivers this fall if my 156x3 ever arrives!!!

Mike

 

[FranktheTank]

Thanks for the help and the pics,I will cut mine off and let everyone know how it worked out. i got a couple of buddies waitin on that same track also there hoping they come in sooner than later been waiting a long time for them already.

 

[captain extreme]

Right on, definatly curious to see how it works out with out them two mounting points. just unsure on how much they come into play with support and holding everything together.
Yes Can't wait for the track, 3" pitch avid drivers have been sitting in the garage for a year now collecting dust, Avid chain case installed, so I'm ready to swap it over if it ever arrives. From what I know my deposit is number 17 on the list!!

Mike