ARP Stud Kit Instructions for Nytro

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Hey wondering if anyone knows what the proper install procedure is for the arp head stud kit. I have the kit with a modified stud to clear water pump gear but it did not come with any instructions or even torque specs! I also noticed that the lower left stud doesn't seem to thread in as far as the others.......is that normal? Not looking for opinions, looking for answers as everyone is closed for the holidays. Thanks

 

[looneyrod27]

I'm pretty sure there is info on the arp website in regards to that. Just need to know the size of studs you have.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

I'm pretty sure there is info on the arp website in regards to that. Just need to know the size of studs you have.

I will have a look but it would be nice to see something posted here.

 

[Clode]

clean the holes very well, red loctite on the studs, thread them in the holes with the allen up, let the loctite set-up overnight, use ARP thread lube on the washer and thread and torque to 55 ft/lbs in several stages. As for the water pump gear modified stud, my kits studs were all the same so I can't comment.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

clean the holes very well, red loctite on the studs, thread them in the holes with the allen up, let the loctite set-up overnight, use ARP thread lube on the washer and thread and torque to 55 ft/lbs in several stages. As for the water pump gear modified stud, my kits studs were all the same so I can't comment.

I talked to Darren from e and s motorcycles and he says clean holes, red loctite, allow 24 hrs to dry, torque nuts to 30 lbs, then , 40, 50, and finally 60 ft pounds. One stud is cut on an angle to clear the water pump drive gear.

I actually read that the Allen key end actually gets installed into the block.....someone please correct me if I am wrong thanks

 

[Clode]

I oopsed...allens down....been running the sled with no problems though...check out this link

http://www.mountainperformance.com/Files/Download/min-0050%20nytro%20head%20stud%20kit.pdf

 

[Clode]

is there a few more threads on the allen end ? I installed them that way because of the head shim, in order to get full thread engagement with the nuts. I checked out clearance to the cams etc before locktite was used. The stud will have the same strength and the thread pitch is the same on both ends.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Ok so here is what I have found out. The two bolts on the left side of the engine are noticeably longer than the the other head bolts but upon test fitting the head I found that the bolt head/ stud nut seats higher than the other seats in the head if that makes any sense. Also you can look into the front left head bolt hole with a bore scope and see which way the gear pump drive gear is turning in order to put your modified stud in the proper direction....mine was cut on an angle at the bottom of the stud. The gear actually rotates perpendicular to the alignment of the cylinders. It's best to pull the coolant pump housing off to see but if you leave the engine in frame like I did I just marked the top of the stud to show what the final position of the stud should be to clear that gear.

I used red loctite then threaded the studs into the cylinder ( Allen key hole down). Be sure to only finger tighten studs then make sure you back off half a turn ( has to do with block stress and distortion ) from the bottom of the hole. Snug to around 10 ft lbs and allow loctite to set up over night making sure that the studs do not bottom in the cylinder.....mark a line on each stud so that you can tell if it turned or not. Tighten studs in sequence to 30, 40, 50, then 60 ft lbs. I hae heard that you can torque the studs, then loosen them, then torque a couple times to pre stretch the studs. Either practice is probably sufficient. Your done! I am not an expert mechanic by any means but this is what I have learned about the install so I thought I would share it with you. If something isn't correct please let me know so I can make the proper changes to this thread. Thanks

 

[Culvert]

Why is the allen head down? Just asking as my buddy had a motor built by & Large Race Eng company for his Turbo RX-1 & the studs where in with Allen head up??
Wonder what the difference is.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Why is the allen head down? Just asking as my buddy had a motor built by & Large Race Eng company for his Turbo RX-1 & the studs where in with Allen head up??
Wonder what the difference is.

Well I know some would say its so you can hold the stud while you torque the nut but to me that does not make sense because you have to use a 12 point socket and using a wrench is impossible on the stud kits for the Nytro. I a, thinking it has to do with block stress or maybe an option for a different application.....just throwing that out there but if someone could jump in on this that knows for sure that would be great.

 

[CamoKVF700]

Allen head up.

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[Thedoityouselfguy]

Allen head up.

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Maybe you can explain for us.....because when I got my stud kit the one stud that was trimmed on an angle to clear the water pump gear was actually cut on the Allen head side......would be silly to install that end up. There are also instructions that say to install the studs Allen down too from mountain perforformance. Maybe you could back your statement?

 

[CamoKVF700]

There may be certain instances for clearance etc that you or others would be required to go Allen head down but they are very far and few between. At ARP they build studs for everything. They are all made the same and same sizes fit a copious amount of applications. The allen head is manufactured in one end for one reason only. That is for install. Not to be screwed in by hand with the Allen to be put in a blind hole. The taper below the Allen head also aids in nut installation and helps keep the threads protected.

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[Thedoityouselfguy]

There may be certain instances for clearance etc that you or others would be required to go Allen head down but they are very far and few between. At ARP they build studs for everything. They are all made the same and same sizes fit a copious amount of applications. The allen head is manufactured in one end for one reason only. That is for install. Not to be screwed in by hand with the Allen to be put in a blind hole. The taper below the Allen head also aids in nut installation and helps keep the threads protected.

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Well the application we are discussing is for the Nytro.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

is there a few more threads on the allen end ? I installed them that way because of the head shim, in order to get full thread engagement with the nuts. I checked out clearance to the cams etc before locktite was used. The stud will have the same strength and the thread pitch is the same on both ends.

I checked threads on each end...they are equal length and thread pitch as well.

 

[Culvert]

Thanks Camo. I thought the allan was on the end for installation. Cant imagine you would run the stud in full length by hand.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Thanks Camo. I thought the allan was on the end for installation. Cant imagine you would run the stud in full length by hand.

You are tricked by your imagination....they thread in by hand.

 

[CamoKVF700]

Technically if everything is clean and perfect they do. But it's not always the case.

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[Thedoityouselfguy]

That is why you are suppose to use an arp thread chaser if there are any obstructions.