98 polaris 700 tuning

[finkous]

just wondering what guys have used for different clutching and carb tunings to improve performance.... i have a 98 rmk with a slp single pipe and went with slps manufacture specs to go with, but im not real happy with the performance... seems a big sluggish off the line. im not wanting to go mach speed down the trail, but would like to get that "rip your arms off" feeling when ya hit the throttle... all your help, hints and tips are appreciated.

and what are guys opinions on the boost bottle and running uni filters rather than the airbox?

 

[BIGFOOT]

Boost bottle cleaned mine up on the btm end. I geared my down (Both top & btm)Don't have my notes with me. Red primary spring w/10-62 wts & jetted 182-195 depends on the weather & running w/decker pipes riding west of the city... It gives your arms a good work out.... Pulls hard. As I said I don't have my exact notes with me, I can confirm when I get to them..The sled works very well.

 

[Polarblu]

the almond spring in the primary made a huge difference for me. i remember using 188 jets for the single pipe. Dropped the pilots one size. there are different needles for them also cause you dont want to mess with hieght on Kiehens.

 

[EthanWbr]

i switched to tm rack carbs 380 main pre-mix fuel 32:1, slp pipe and can, v force reeds, primary clutch- blue w/ white spring, 10-60 weights, team secondary clutch 38 helix

 

[finkous]

thanks guys for the info... what i am running right now is as follows

1368 needles with a 6.0 cutaway slide and running 190 mains
red polaris primary spring which i am assuming is the same as SLP's dark blue
10-64 weights
i havent taken the secondary apart and i cant remember what i am running but SLP says a silver blue spring in the 2nd tension hole with a 52/34 helix
its been a while since i opened up the chain case, but i'm pretty sure i havent strayed from the stock 21/41 gears

i'm thinkin about goin back to stock and trying it again and then go with different ideas... i'm sure there are a few more diehards that refuse to spend the 12,000+ cash on a new pull n go sled that can tell me their tips on bringin this beast life and making it perform the way i want it too

p.s and if anybody has a boost bottle they wanna get rid of, i'm pretty sure i have frosty box of beer of your favorite flavor...

 

[retiredpop]

and what are guys opinions on the boost bottle and running uni filters rather than the airbox?

Boost bottle helped these sleds. I wouldn't go with uni filters though. You run into problems with them due to air pressure differences under the hood between slow speeds and high speeds. Something else which helps the bottom end of Keihin carbs are the SLP Power Packs.
Polaris - SLP Power Pack? - Starting Line Products

 

[hippiekiller]

Uni filters seem like a good way to destroy your engine by running lots of hot air through it....You can take the baffle out of the airbox or get the SLP widemouth, these will help increase cool air flow....
The boost bottle, 1371J needle, boysen reeds, and SLP powerpacks, in that order of economy, all really help the low end burble characteristic of these engines...
I probably cant help you with clutching or jetting as I am in the mountains, but you can go a couple of sizes leaner on the pilot usually with the keihins...the keihins are a PITA to tune, try to get your airscrew right, that makes a big difference at a faily consistant elevation...lots of info around on tuning these...pwk39...
my 97 requires a fairly good grip on the bars:d
Ive spent lots of time with these carbs, any questions just ask...

 

[Rockwerx]

I ran ours with stock 700 gearing, 10-62 praire, 10-60 mountain, 160 jets mountain, 180 jets praire, 2 sizes lower on secondary jets, needle set 2nd clip from top with me riding (leaner), bottom setting for my wife (richer). The engine would run a bit lean and thus hot if you are not opening it up a lot so I had to raise the needle when my wife rides it praire or mountain with these settings. I would run the stock air box as they work a lot better than pods IMO. You could also check your clutches and clean them which may help your bottom end. Pay attention to the bushings in the fly weights as when they wear the fly weights will start to cut into the clutch and then you have to replace the entire clutch.

 

[j.c.higgins]

Run 42 or 40 pilots with the airscrew turned 1 to 1 1/8 out. That airscrew likes to be very close to not much more than the 1 turn range from seated. 5.5 cutaways and the 1371j needle like someone stated in the 3rd clip position and powerpacs. I might have some! Primary, Blu/White (120-310) or Almond round (140-330) will work, weight up to what SLP recommends for RPM, Secondary Polaris Sliver/Blu in 2nd or 3rd hole with R8 helix (50/34) or Slp Mountain 48/36 with Black/Grey or Yellow/Purple. I may have some of this stuff if your interested.

 

[finkous]

awesome guys.... thanks for all your input, that gives me lots to go on and try and see what works the best for me.

j.c i'll be givin ya a shout and see what ya got and make the trek over to see ya when i get a chance

 

[finkous]

i pulled the carbs apart, cleaned em up, put them back to the factory RMK specs, i bought the slp power packs, the boost bottle was back ordered and probably wont get any in for a while, so i'm on the hunt for a used one still... the sled still has a stumble right off the hop, takes a second or so to really pick up, it pulls harder than it did, not sure because of the packs but so what, its better. i set the idle screw at 1 turn out and the needles are set in the middle...

 

[finkous]

update... took this heap of bolts for a ride today and the the mag side carb kept freezing up, in minus 2 degrees???? ran like a sick dog, couldnt get it to run good at all... do i need to close the vents completely off? never had this prob before...