2013 xm problem

hashbrowns

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I got a 2013 X xm and I had it die on me while we where sledding about half way into our day. Fired it back up and it was in warm up mode and sled was hot already. Went down a hill and was throwing Rev limiter while going down and then I hit throttle and it died. Threw a check engine light and ran like ****. Shut it off and fired it back up and ran fine. Noticed if I try to start moving slowly it will die but if I fire it up and let it run for a few seconds then Crack it it takes off and runs fine. Keeps saying it's in warm up mode but have full rpm and keeps saying Rev limiter. When sled is idling it will run fine except a couple times it would kill itself. Brought back to the place we leave our sleds in revy and threw it on the computer and it's throwing mag and pto side voltage low and system voltage shorted and primary voltage shorted I believe. All saying stator is gone but on the computer it's putting out right what it should be.

Brought it home stripped it right down. Found nothing wrong. Pulled all connectors apart and cleaned them and put dielectric grease in them. Checked oil pump ground and it's good. Seen that was a issue but mines fine. Only thing I'm leaning to is stator is starting to go when it's warm and doesn't have enough power at engagement and kills it.

Has anyone had this issue before. Any help would be awesome

Thanks Cody
 

tex78

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Stator can test fine cold, but with temp windings can short, and or not make enough voltage to keep up
 

Summitdoorule

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Had the same issue with my 2013 with the PTO and Mag sides; I replaced the Mag Ignition Coil and PTO Ignition Coil and have not had anymore issues... I was a little nervous about the Magneto going on them as well because I had heard that was a possible issue... From my understanding once you get either Code for the PTO or Mag side you have to replace the Ignition Coil because it has already failed...
 

hashbrowns

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Had the same issue with my 2013 with the PTO and Mag sides; I replaced the Mag Ignition Coil and PTO Ignition Coil and have not had anymore issues... I was a little nervous about the Magneto going on them as well because I had heard that was a possible issue... From my understanding once you get either Code for the PTO or Mag side you have to replace the Ignition Coil because it has already failed...


Your was doing the samething as mine or just the same codes?
 

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I am also running similar issues on my 13. it hasn't died on me yet. It started with over rev warning when coming down hill. Tach would read 4500 RPM all the way down. I did have the CEL come on once when I first started it up in the morning. I'll have to start digging into it. Can you check a CEL code if it has cleared on the gauge or does it have to be hooked up to buds?
 

zenk

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the code should save.
only way to erase the code is to clear them and without buds you cant
 

hashbrowns

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So pulled my stator off. Found the sleeve that is between the flywheel and stator was all chewed to and found wires on the stator cut. Guess I need new stator and everything. Thanks for the help guys. Hope this helps the next person. Would post a picture but my phone won't let me.
 

towerrigger

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So it could be a couple of things wrong then. Stator or coils. Hashbrowns did you need the special doo puller to get the flywheel off?
 

hashbrowns

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Nope. Just need a standard 3 bolt puller. I just threw a pry bar onto the foot board and clutch. It's on there pretty good. I wouldn't use heat cause I was told that could be why those sleeves are letting loose. If it's starting to act up I would check the stator. Hope you catch it before it grenades like mine
 

towerrigger

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Tore into mine tonight. Ring in the flywheel looks fine. There was some metallic shavings on the ring. Stator itself looks good but has a strong burnt electrical smell. Mmmm.

Ran some tests on it as per the manual. All checks out ok. I do have another stator and flywheel from another engine. Thoughts here? Does the burnt smell and metallic shavings warrant replacing it?
 

BeachSled

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The stator in my '14 would short out and burn when the engine was hot.

You able to test it again when it's hot?

It also had burn spots in the 1-3 o'clock position.


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Snow1

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Having similar problem with the wife's 13 X 154 elec start.
I called it de rating but the dealer says its dropping a cylinder. Showed 3 different codes for a total of 57 times, both ign coils and the stator. Only shows "check engine" when it does it. Dealer doesn't know what to change but suggested both Ign coils. I'm going to have him clear the codes and ride it again and see which code comes up first. Was able to keep riding by pulling both side panels off and packing the exhaust side with snow and it never did it again the rest of the day. How does a guy check codes out on the mountain?
 

BeachSled

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I know there is a thread on DooTalk I believe that lists all the "P" codes. You can check active codes by holding the "M" or the "S" button on the display and clicking the hi beam switch fast a few times.

I don't have the instructions with me because I am on holidays and it's at home on the computer.

Hope this kinda helps you out.


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MK4TDI

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Having similar problem with the wife's 13 X 154 elec start.
I called it de rating but the dealer says its dropping a cylinder. Showed 3 different codes for a total of 57 times, both ign coils and the stator. Only shows "check engine" when it does it. Dealer doesn't know what to change but suggested both Ign coils. I'm going to have him clear the codes and ride it again and see which code comes up first. Was able to keep riding by pulling both side panels off and packing the exhaust side with snow and it never did it again the rest of the day. How does a guy check codes out on the mountain?
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