2011 m8 running issues

mastercraft

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had the sled out last weekend , was running great just ditch riding, all of the sudden the belt blew, got all the pieces , string whatever else out of the clutches , put my spare belt back on , and it would pull hard to 7600 rpm , backfire through the exhaust and not rev any higher , so rode it nice to get home, checked belt deflection that was good, got it back in the city and tried to figure out what was wrong with it , changed spark plugs - no difference, checked reeds - good , tried diferent knock sensor - no difference , checked stator with ohm meter - good , checked primary over good , weights, rollers ,nothing binding springs good , changed secondary rollers , spring , cleaned everything out , checked power valves - good , servo motor working properly , I did find on the 3 wire connection from the stator to the sled the one yellow had gotten hot and melted so I direct connected those 3 wires instead of the block being there took it out on the grass with what little snow we have , still revs to 8200 and starts to backfire through the exhaust and surge , the only thing weird I have noticed and not had a chance to look into is the diamond drive has ALOT of play in it when just sitting on the floor I can move the clutch quite a bit , I don't think it could cause the sled to do this ,has anyone ever heard of anything like this im stumped ..
 

mastercraft

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Thanks for the reply , it's running a jaws can , has been for. 600 miles or so it's worth a sshot to try it any reason a person could think of why it would be the can suddenly , tthere is also no trouble codes showing up anywhere
 

markoo

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If it suddenly runs bad after you blow a belt there could be a few possibilities. First thing I would check is the wires going to the servo motor. Blowing belt peices could wreck those wires. Second thing that comes to mind is if your belt blew at high rpm you crank could have twisted. Very rare but it happens. Also a peice of belt cord could have taken out you crank seal making on cylinder very lean.
 

T.O.B.C

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I wouldn't worry about the diamond drive they have a lot of play when you move the secondary, there are a lot of planetary gears that each have a little clearance. Also a good reason to not get rammy between forward and reverse. If you run out of options you could try and look at your reeds, they usually cause a low end bog and will run good at high rpm so it doesn't really sound like your problem. My 2010 M8 goes through a set of reeds every thousand miles like clockwork, tips of the pedals fret off. Let us know what you find
 

mastercraft

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Reeds are good , plugs read normal , nothing behind clutch to come into play with the seal , servo motor
is opening when it should , had the power vvalves out all is well there , only thing I found so far was the a melted wire on the yellow coming out of the stator , right at the connection to go to the sled , i fixed that no difference
 

craptabulous

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is your timing out a few degrees , might of partially sheered the key when it was shocked from the belt breaking . It should always run bad but perhaps its not out that much . Just enough that at high rpm its affected .

Check your engine mounts when your in there and buy a linderman mount from arctic edge to help with belt breakage . If you just ran that one for 3000 kms and it went from wear . Then i would change it more often so it doesnt blow . Venting that side pannel makes a big difference in belt life as well . Xxxmod rods has nice stuff
 
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mastercraft

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is your timing out a few degrees , might of partially sheered the key when it was shocked from the belt breaking . It should always run bad but perhaps its not out that much . Just enough that at high rpm its affected .

Check your engine mounts when your in there and buy a linderman mount from arctic edge to help with belt breakage . If you just ran that one for 3000 kms and it went from wear . Then i would change it more often so it doesnt blow . Venting that side pannel makes a big difference in belt life as well . Xxxmod rods has nice stuff


I can almost picture the timing thing being relevant simply bebecause it is back firing through the exhaust , panels vented , belt was old so who knows but it has to be related to the belt blowing, don't really see the crank being hurt runs ggood to 7600
 

cnelson6

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Check your primary spring anytime you blow a belt on those m series it seems like it's a broken primary spring. Also function test your servo put the back end up and rev it up I believe it should open up at 6000 to 6500 or something. I chased a servo problem for a little bit. Did the same thing blew a belt, had a broken primary spring and then the motor started acting up.
 

cnelson6

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And as for the wires melting the m series is known to have bad grounds check all your grounds on the sled and re do the I'm they are in question.
 

mastercraft

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Clutch springs good , were are all the grounds ? Servo opening at 6000 ish , it's surging it will rev out and backfire dial back and surge I'm so confused , load or no load still the same results
 

mastercraft

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Could this be a stator issue but it checks out with ohm meter but not putting out correct volts ?the throttle stick sensor cause Somthing like this . Talked to a dealer they said they really haven't seen to many stators compared to previous years , suggested the sstator or else crank put of wack , I still can't see the crank being out if it was it should be running crappy all the time
 
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SIRsleeper

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Could be outta balance a bit. Think tires on a vehicle, when they're out you'll feel it bad at a certain speed and some speeds barely notice a thing.


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mastercraft

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I hear what your saying it's just not the same it shouldn't run right and
it shouldnt cut in and out but I guess stranger things have happend iis it possible to post a video of it on here iif not and anyone wants to see this problem and hear it pm me your email , another point earlier in the
weekend way up top like 8200 it did backfire a few times at start of the day , thought maybe just bBecuase of some old fuel
 

SIRsleeper

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You can post to YouTube and link in the video. Actually ya if the crank was out you'd think you would notice all the time... **** like this drives me nuts. I rebuilt a Jetski and chased a loading up condition like it was too rich for a while and it wound up needing a hotter plug of all things.


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T.O.B.C

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you could try unplugging all your wiring input/outputs to your handlebars, should be behind the aluminium shield below your handlebars. This would eliminate your throttle sticking sensor as well as your reverse switch. I had a problem with my rer trying to come on when I shouldn't, engine would try and stall and backfire. Engine will run with all the wires to your handlebar unplugged.
 

mastercraft

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Thanks for all the help every one , still no fix , if I hold the throttle not all the way it will hold like 8300 rpm , soon as it goes past certain point it wants to surge and backfire , tps issue , anyone got anythin else to add ?
 

mastercraft

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Found what was wrong , tried a different ecu, problem went away , tried mine on the other sled and it appeared , thanks a lot to any one that helped out I'm hoping I can get my ecu re flashed and solve the problem as it is still functioning but seems to have glitched the mapping . I will post when I know more
 
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