I installed a steep and deep clutch kit from bikeman. They suggested 15g of pin-weight. I am already to 16.4g on clicker 1, and cant go past 3/4-7/8 throttle. I understand concept of clutching, but just wondering if anyone else has had to go this high? Any insight or experience would be a help.
XM clutching
- Thread starter young-gun
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teeroy
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what was in the kit? where are you testing? what was wrong with it that you needed a clutch kit?
tex78
Active VIP Member
Dunno gun.
D.j kit has 15.3 + or - a bit to get clicker One at 3000 feet.
At 8000 ish I'm on 3. Good back shift also.
For me I Tryed a bikeman pipe before and it was worse than stock. So I stay away for them.
They must use a light spring if u need that much weight. ( Mabe wrong with the way weight to spring tho )
from my HTC
D.j kit has 15.3 + or - a bit to get clicker One at 3000 feet.
At 8000 ish I'm on 3. Good back shift also.
For me I Tryed a bikeman pipe before and it was worse than stock. So I stay away for them.
They must use a light spring if u need that much weight. ( Mabe wrong with the way weight to spring tho )
from my HTC
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- #4
Cant remember off hand what spring rates are, but they were both yellow, one was in a team industries bag. My next weight i can go to is 17g i believe, with weights supplied in kit. Really like how it pulls and shifts, way better braking as well. Oh ya, also installed dj mountain ramps. I also weigh 165lbs, so could factor in a little.
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- #5
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- #6
Why does there have to be something wrong? Why turbo? Why big-bore? Just looking to improve sleds abilities.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
you will have to throw a ton of weight at it to run it down low. i bet 15g will work perfect for 6000-9000
remember your +10-15 hp where your riding vs in the hills.
as far as the clutch kit thing is concerned. they are all a joke on a stock sled. the only reason to change clutching is to compliment a big bor/turbo or other mod that just wont work with factory clutching. all you are doing is " re arranging" how the sled reacts. and for some like yourself you may like that because of the way it shifts or brakes etc. but there is no actual performance gain.
remember your +10-15 hp where your riding vs in the hills.
as far as the clutch kit thing is concerned. they are all a joke on a stock sled. the only reason to change clutching is to compliment a big bor/turbo or other mod that just wont work with factory clutching. all you are doing is " re arranging" how the sled reacts. and for some like yourself you may like that because of the way it shifts or brakes etc. but there is no actual performance gain.
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I just installed the same kit, I also hit the rev limiter but wil wait until I get to some higher elevation before I do more. I will find out this week. Like the kit says works best at 4000 to 9000. What was the elevation you were running it at?
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- #9
Thanks for info. I know you don't get more power. I had a dj kit on my 2011, wanted to try bmp. The feel in responsiveness with a properly clutched sled to stock is huge. As i enjoy tree riding were on/off throttle, were clutch kit shines. Will throw some more weight at it, as i doo ride around home (2500ft) a bit, and cant stay out of it enough to not hit limiter.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
bmp makes a great product. ive tested alot of junk and there stuff does work. especially there big bores.
YamaDooPolCat
Active member
You are going to spend a lot of money for nothing on the TRA, and then you are going to do it again.
I run 10-66 weight and a green/pink spring and it is spot on solid at 8,000RPM. I don't know why people like to pizz around with the TRA when it is cheaper and the sled pulls better with this set up.
I get slagged big time over on the other "Ski-Doo" site, by the 98%er's that follow one another around in circles, but this works. I can even run gears that would make the TRA chatter and hop, so I also much better choice on what gears you want to doo.
Just because BRP doesn't make a good mountain clutch doesn't mean you have to suffer, and spend spend spend. Lots of better and solid mountain clutches that are easy to install. I even kept my electric start function.
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maxwell
Active VIP Member
i havent not had 8000 consistant rpms on a skidoo since 2008. im not sure where this mystical issue arises from for you
teeroy
Active VIP Member
the reason you turbo or big bore is for more power to spank your friends, a clutch kit will not do as you seek. only thing that would make me play with the clutching on the XM is if it wasn't performing properly, burning belts, or I was getting outclimbed by another stock machine.
how can you like the way it pulls and shifts if you can't hold it to the bar? if you knew your ch!t, you wouldn't be asking so don't play all smart. the questions I asked were valid in determining an answer. you want it to run in the ditches, or you want it to run in the mountains? the lower the clicker is the most efficient on the TRA, but you can't have it both ways. so decide if you want a compromise, and we can work from there.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
From my experience there is NO clutch kit that will work both flatland and mountains you WILL be changing pin weight between the two. Best bet is an adjustable shock wave helix. It's very similar to clutching for nitrous. You can't do it because you will sacrifice something else as there is a quick hp increase. There is a hp increase and decrease happening going up and down from te alpine and for that reason you can't run the same setup in the hills and fields
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teeroy
Active VIP Member
I have the compromise tuning in mine. i can run on 1 and 2 around here between 1-3000' and 5 or 6 in vale. optimal? no....but works for me.
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- #16
Yes the lower is the most efficient, but i prefer running #3-4 at elevation. I am trying to get sled to point were rideable around home! Don't really care about optimal performance on flat land! Just a question for ya! Why is clutching #1 recommended EVERY time a "what should i do to my sled thread starts"?
The rest of us out there could learn so much from you! I appreciate your narrow, and arrogant replies, most enlightening!
teeroy
Active VIP Member
in previous years, yes, clutching was not the best out of the box. they have come a long way since the chassis was first introduced, from what I see they are working pretty good. just answer these questions if you would, and I will do my best to answer them with the least amount of narrowness and arrogance.
what was it like at home when you first tried it?
have you ridden it both at elevation and at home?
what was it about the stock clutching you did not like and are looking to change?
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- #18
Haven't rode at elevation yet. Usually ride valemount. Engine braking was really laking from the get go. The 2011-12's i have ridden all feel the same, lack of engine braking, and not real crisp/responsive as clutched versions ridden. I too set up previous sleds to run on clicker 1 to ride around home. And hope to use 3-4 or even 5 at elevation. I just never expected to be 1.5g over recommended, as other kits i have ran only require +-0.5g from recommendations. My initial post was only a feeler to see if others were seeing same results. Not to get into pissin match with anyone.
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- #19
Just asking a question here. Why would you change clutching for allitide when you have not yet even tried it in the high elevation? You could of saved a pile of $$$ and riding time by first trying it out. JMHO. My 2008 always engine braked better in the mountains than at home. Teeroy have a very valid post
JMHO.
teeroy
Active VIP Member
well, I really think you should try it first in both areas, at home and in valemount the way it comes out of the box. put a good weekend on it, you won't get any solid results until it is past it's break in mode which will take a few tanks of fuel before it cuts the oil consumption and runs the way it should. then go out again, put it up against a few sleds, see how it works and then start modding if you choose.
to take a brand new machine and start tearing into the clutch based on what an aftermarket company brags is the "hot setup" is foolish IMO, you will be chasing your tail trying to dial it in before you even know what you have.
I guess my first post may have been somewhat confrontational, my apologies. a good majority of us never stop trying to make our sleds "better" and the aftermarket thrives on it. doing it the right way will save you a lot of time and aggrivation, not to mention having your buds make you look bad in the hills.
Merry Christmas
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