shockwave helix on a xm/t3

fynnigan

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picking up the new ride on saturday, 174 t3 . probably wont do anything to the clutching for a while ,see how it works . but i have been wanting to try a shockwave helix for a quite sometime ,usually do my own clutch work and the idea of a adjustable helix is very interesting . thoughts ? experiences ? worth the money ? . the only thing i have heard is they are a little hard on rollers.
 

FranktheTank

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i had one on my BB and loved it could change angles as snow conditions needed. Pretty much left clickers alone and played with the shockwave. Considering putting one in my 14 will see how it does on my first trip out this season
 

oler1234

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Yup I had one on my big bore as well. Works great, and adjusted the shockwave not the clicker setting. You can get straight ramps, progressive, and reverse angle ramps for it. When you get one remember how much a turn can effect the helix angle, most times you only need a quarter or half turn. Most people over adjust them by 1-2 full turns.

and yes they are hard on rollers, even with the hi torque ones it would still chew threw them. The problem is that the ramps are more narrow than the rollers.
 

fynnigan

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will it deal with the dreaded rpm fade ? i have paid some good money for clutch kits from a couple of respected aftermarket gurus and still run into the fade , different snow conditions during the day and not being able to compensate with the clickers has left me with a mixed feeling about aftermarket clutch kits .i hate that buzzy useless feeling when you get past clicker 4 on a stock setup aswell. played with a few different ideas myself and some parts from heel clicker and dalton seemed to work the best but alot of farting around and some of it plain didnt work . i think the 174 x 3 inch is going to tax the stock clutching pretty hard in heavy snow conditions . so how hard are is the shockwave on rollers ? kms before change ? straight ? progressive ? not so sure about reverse any more . dealers in alta. /bc ? thanks
 

pfi572

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I have one with a hundred Kms on it (at most) I will sell.
$200.00 if anyone is interested.
QRS
 

Winter Brew

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will it deal with the dreaded rpm fade ? i have paid some good money for clutch kits from a couple of respected aftermarket gurus and still run into the fade , different snow conditions during the day and not being able to compensate with the clickers has left me with a mixed feeling about aftermarket clutch kits .i hate that buzzy useless feeling when you get past clicker 4 on a stock setup aswell. played with a few different ideas myself and some parts from heel clicker and dalton seemed to work the best but alot of farting around and some of it plain didnt work . i think the 174 x 3 inch is going to tax the stock clutching pretty hard in heavy snow conditions . so how hard are is the shockwave on rollers ? kms before change ? straight ? progressive ? not so sure about reverse any more . dealers in alta. /bc ? thanks

Progressive would be my choice. I find the 4* spread they offer is not nearly enough to have a strong low end and still hold rpm on a climb. I would combine the helix change with a purple/purple sec spring, the stock spring is way too soft for the big tracks and anything steeper than the stock helix.
I dont recall if you ran rooster clutching or not, but if you did, we had a late season ramp change that addressed rpm drop.
There is also rpm fade that is not clutch related....once the exhaust sensors see enough heat, it adds fuel and cuts timing, resulting in rpm drop regardless of clutching. This can be minimized but not eliminated with clutching, it's just the nature of the etec, too smart for its own good!
 

SaskSummit

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Progressive would be my choice. I find the 4* spread they offer is not nearly enough to have a strong low end and still hold rpm on a climb. I would combine the helix change with a purple/purple sec spring, the stock spring is way too soft for the big tracks and anything steeper than the stock helix.
I dont recall if you ran rooster clutching or not, but if you did, we had a late season ramp change that addressed rpm drop.
There is also rpm fade that is not clutch related....once the exhaust sensors see enough heat, it adds fuel and cuts timing, resulting in rpm drop regardless of clutching. This can be minimized but not eliminated with clutching, it's just the nature of the etec, too smart for its own good!
What is the deal with the Ramps Winter Brew? Where do I get them?
 

slededjr

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Ramps from BRP, Dalton, Goodwin Performance, Rooster built, etc. Depends on what you're looking for? Can buy the grinding block and blank ramps to make your own or modify others as well. I like making my own. Can get expensive if you don't understand how the clutch works, especially the TRA. I personally love the TRA because it can be so finely tweaked and tuned.
 
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