Rider Position for Big & STEEP climbs

[sled obsessed]

Been mountain riding for 6 or 7 years now. Getting decent at technical stuff and tight lines but one thing that still gives me trouble is big long steep climbs. So i have a question about rider position.

I have heard some guys say you need to be all the way forward, boots at the front of the boards belt buckle touching the bars... I have been doing this but feel that as i get a ways through the climb (and the front end is way up in the air) I am pulling the sled over basically making it wheelie worse.

One buddy i ride with (pretty decent rider) says he is almost always as far back as possible (standing at the back of the boards with one foot on the gas can on the tunnel) basically pushing down on the bars through the climb.

So which is it, all the way forward, or boots at the back of the boards? Or initiate the climb in a neutral position and move boots back once getting vertical?

I don't think its a sled thing or a suspension thing (although yes i know those are factors as well but i have had similar issues with my Tnytro (w ezryde) and my M8000).

Appreciate any technique advise you guys might have, i know there are some pretty accomplished riders posting on here.

 

[fredw]

To play in steep/deep the very most important thing is your rear skid.. Hands down

no riding position will make up for a wheelie skid, you might look cool to your younger folks riding with you but your a joke to guys that have it set up well

need a skid that holds skis down firm, a skid that does not sag, a skid that you can get off throttle over a ulgy lump or hill, get control and back on, with out having skis leave snow

now with a good skid riding position can be altered some where you still must be as forward as you can in the steepest of spots and be able to slide back some in other spots, maybe in a ulgy sidehilling hill..

rear shock sag, is your biggest enemy..

 

[sled obsessed]

174 “fix” the issue? Or do you have an after market skid/parts?

 

[fredw]

Yes for sure a 174 is huge, the extra length is leverage holding down skis and helping skid.. Front limiter strap ussally needs to be sucked up tight as well, run my skids at 5.75 inches cxc

 

[lilduke]

Im not really a chute climber, but I have climbed many of the Revy chutes(in the spring) on a stock motor and 154 track. (not the ideal weapon)
But can be done though.

Craziest line I ever have seen pulled was on a 163 track. (turbo)

You do want the front end to stay down, but I find with about 6 inches of ski lift is better than them touching the ground because
the bumps will **** with you less. I keep my feet on the boards and dont pull up on the bars (hard not to do when you are climbing a wall)

Momentum is key, especially with a stockish sled. any bumps or ruts I have to anticipate and soak up with my body.
If you let off the gas once on some of these climbs you are done.

I guess that is why most people use Turbo 174's to climb these chutes instead of a Freeride haha

 

[sled obsessed]

I guess I will tighten the limiter strap a bit more and tighten up the rear harrow tine adjustment a bit more also, but agree with lilduke I’ve ridden sleds with a ****load of ski pressure and it’s not exactly fun. Easier to do most stuff with the skis a few inches off the ground.

Sounds like consesus is boots as far forward on the boards as possible.

 

[lilduke]

Sounds like consesus is boots as far forward on the boards as possible.

No for me,(when hill climbing) I stand where the front torque arm bolts to the tunnel. Maybe a little bit behind that on a very steep pull.


But like anything else, best thing is to do it and see for yourself. Just be prepared to watch your sled roll down the mountain
and try not to get crushed by it while that is happening, because you'll be rolling too! haha

 

[skegpro]

To play in steep/deep the very most important thing is your rear skid.. Hands down

no riding position will make up for a wheelie skid, you might look cool to your younger folks riding with you but your a joke to guys that have it set up well

need a skid that holds skis down firm, a skid that does not sag, a skid that you can get off throttle over a ulgy lump or hill, get control and back on, with out having skis leave snow

now with a good skid riding position can be altered some where you still must be as forward as you can in the steepest of spots and be able to slide back some in other spots, maybe in a ulgy sidehilling hill..

rear shock sag, is your biggest enemy..

Absolutely correct ^

 

[Merc63]

On ththe G4 175" feet back a bit and hold on as far as your balls will take you, no need to move or lean forward like a T3 163. I even found th G4 165 climbed really good and never needed to lean forward either.

 

[007sevens]

Coupled skid.....nuff said.