Performance problems 2003 kodiak 450

[skor]

Hey guys, would anyone have any ideas as to why I can't go faster than 39 km/h on my 2003 kodiak 450?What should I check for?About 3 weeks back I got stuck in sandy waters, could that had something to do with it? I cleaned out where belt sits so it's not sliding .... I just top at 39km/h.Thanks in advance

 

[northern bear]

Try putting it in high range, jk lol. If enough sand and dirt got in there it could be possible it's not allowing the roller weights in the primary to slide out all the way, therefore limiting your top end speed. That would be a lot of sand tho!


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[skor]

Thanks for the response ... So how would I check/fix that? I'm so new to this that I have no idea where to start :-(

 

[northern bear]

Obviously if you have cleaned where the belt rides, you have taken the floorboards apart and the cover and intake/exhaust pieces off to expose the clutches. On the primary clutch there will be a cage that fits over top held on by 4 bolts. 10mm socket I believe. Once that is off there will be one central nut holding the clutch on the primary shaft. I'm guessing 22 or 24 mm. At this point one can take one of the bolts used to hold the cage on and insert it into one of the 2 small threaded holes near centre of the secondary clutch. Screw them in and it will force the 2 sheave halves apart giving u slack in the belt. PS at this time notice if the belt is tight between the 2 clutches. There should be no slack and in contact at all times. If not then the belt is wore out. Remove the primary clutch by removing that one nut and washer. An impact makes it easy otherwise it's a pain to try and hold the clutch from turning while undoing the nut, unless u have a clutch holding tool or a strap wrench works as well. The sheave half should just slide off now, just keep your thumbs pressing the inner part (cam plate) tight as u pull it off. Lay it down with side belt rides on facing down. There u should see 6 Phillips head screws. Remove these and pry that small cover off the sheave. There's an o-ring there as well don't damage it. Once that is off the inner piece (cam plate) will pull out. On that plate there should be 4 Teflon/plastic slide guide things. Check there condition that they aren't wore out. Under the cam
Plate you will find 6 roller weights. Remove these one at a time clean and inspect. Lay them in the order they came out. Some machines use alternating weights of different weights. If this is the case with the 450 u don't want to mix them up as it will throw everything out of balance if put back together wrong. Clean everything real well inspecting for wear at this time of course. Now it's time to put it back together. Each groove that the weights sit in require grease. 90 grams each slide or a teaspoon. This is a special grease Yamaha calls atv ultramatic clutch grease. I think a good wheel bearing grease is the same thing. Assembly of course is just reverse of taking it apart. Weights, cam plate with the guides, dust/grease cover plate and o-ring and screws. When u go to pick it up to slide back on shaft, make sure u hold the cam plate tight against the weights. Otherwise a weight can fall out of it's groove laying in there wrong. That nut to hold on the clutch has to be torqued to 85 ft/lbs I believe. Put the cage back on, taking bolts out of secondary clutch. Ensure everything is tightened properly and aligned. At this point u can start machine and give gas and watch clutch operation. Just don't do it without the cage on. Put covers back on and go for a test ride. Hopefully this cures your issue. One can also pull the secondary clutch at this time and clean up. One might also want to take a scotch brite pad and buff the glaze of the clutch surfaces.

Kinda long winded, hope it helps u out. That's the procedure for my 700 I would think the 450 is the same or similar.


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[skor]

Oh thank you very much... Ill give this a try this weekend coming up. It looks and sounds pretty technical for me ;-( but Ill just take my time ;-)

Thanks a lot!

 

[imdoo'n]

take the parking brake off. or as previous clean the clutches

 

[skor]

Obviously if you have cleaned where the belt rides, you have taken the floorboards apart and the cover and intake/exhaust pieces off to expose the clutches. On the primary clutch there will be a cage that fits over top held on by 4 bolts. 10mm socket I believe. Once that is off there will be one central nut holding the clutch on the primary shaft. I'm guessing 22 or 24 mm. At this point one can take one of the bolts used to hold the cage on and insert it into one of the 2 small threaded holes near centre of the secondary clutch. Screw them in and it will force the 2 sheave halves apart giving u slack in the belt. PS at this time notice if the belt is tight between the 2 clutches. There should be no slack and in contact at all times. If not then the belt is wore out. Remove the primary clutch by removing that one nut and washer. An impact makes it easy otherwise it's a pain to try and hold the clutch from turning while undoing the nut, unless u have a clutch holding tool or a strap wrench works as well. The sheave half should just slide off now, just keep your thumbs pressing the inner part (cam plate) tight as u pull it off. Lay it down with side belt rides on facing down. There u should see 6 Phillips head screws. Remove these and pry that small cover off the sheave. There's an o-ring there as well don't damage it. Once that is off the inner piece (cam plate) will pull out. On that plate there should be 4 Teflon/plastic slide guide things. Check there condition that they aren't wore out. Under the cam
Plate you will find 6 roller weights. Remove these one at a time clean and inspect. Lay them in the order they came out. Some machines use alternating weights of different weights. If this is the case with the 450 u don't want to mix them up as it will throw everything out of balance if put back together wrong. Clean everything real well inspecting for wear at this time of course. Now it's time to put it back together. Each groove that the weights sit in require grease. 90 grams each slide or a teaspoon. This is a special grease Yamaha calls atv ultramatic clutch grease. I think a good wheel bearing grease is the same thing. Assembly of course is just reverse of taking it apart. Weights, cam plate with the guides, dust/grease cover plate and o-ring and screws. When u go to pick it up to slide back on shaft, make sure u hold the cam plate tight against the weights. Otherwise a weight can fall out of it's groove laying in there wrong. That nut to hold on the clutch has to be torqued to 85 ft/lbs I believe. Put the cage back on, taking bolts out of secondary clutch. Ensure everything is tightened properly and aligned. At this point u can start machine and give gas and watch clutch operation. Just don't do it without the cage on. Put covers back on and go for a test ride. Hopefully this cures your issue. One can also pull the secondary clutch at this time and clean up. One might also want to take a scotch brite pad and buff the glaze of the clutch surfaces.

Kinda long winded, hope it helps u out. That's the procedure for my 700 I would think the 450 is the same or similar.


Sent from my old skool iPhone 3G

This helped ! it was a well describe and i got the power back. Also my belt is at 29mm but according to the sevice manual the min would be 27.6 so I wont replace it just yet. I took about 1.5 cups of dirt ;-(

Thanks for the help!

 

[northern bear]

This helped ! it was a well describe and i got the power back. Also my belt is at 29mm but according to the sevice manual the min would be 27.6 so I wont replace it just yet. I took about 1.5 cups of dirt ;-(

Thanks for the help!

Glad it helped u out and solved the problem.


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