Need spindle angle from T3

deaner

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Well finally got her diagnosed. Cuso was right on the money. The hit pushed the left side back and then telegraphed and pushed the right side forward. What a stupid fawkin design. Id take the flimsy A arms on the pros any day over this. Wasnt even that big of a hit.
 

moonbeam

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uploadfromtaptalk1451765053564.jpg Iron dog s-mod

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mountainsledmania

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Well finally got her diagnosed. Cuso was right on the money. The hit pushed the left side back and then telegraphed and pushed the right side forward. What a stupid fawkin design. Id take the flimsy A arms on the pros any day over this. Wasnt even that big of a hit.

shoot man sorry about your luck. if it makes you feel any better now that you say that... mine is starting to look the same. one shock is forward and one shock is way back. I guess there's always the brace kit.. but then we would be both doing e modules... witch isn't very fun ive bin told.
 

moonbeam

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Pic shows washers I used to get spacer thickness for upper a arms...iron dog must have larger mount on upper a arm
724dbb7aa8b32b4dbad1e366996d1eff.jpg


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moonbeam

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what exactly did you make the spacers for the a arms from? im assuming that's them between the black brace?
Pic shows washers that I used last season but this year I just cut some 3/8 Arctic cat a arm bushings to to match thickness of the washers...a little less redneck this way but not much..haha

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kidinloghouse

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The iron dog module may be the same as the old race sled module and has an additional brace and they use washers to adjust caster

WP_000468.jpg
 

mountainsledmania

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hey question bout the iron dog... if you look at the suspension parts page there is special bushings #23 can you use those instead of making spacers for them?
 

deaner

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Yeah I just finished pulling my S mod out. Actually not a bad job at all. Im not beefing mine up at all. The thought of changing an E mod out makes me want to puke in my mouth.

I remember this being talked about on dootalk years back......anyone experiment with drilling holes in the back of the a arms to provide an easier failure point? My biggest concern would be not making them too weak.
 

CUSO

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I put the grip'n'rip bracing on mine when I replaced the casting below. I think the beefier s mod would be the better choice over this, but I found that after I replaced the casting, the skis came within 1" of each other when measuring to the tunnel and that's close enough to me. The s mod is flimsy, and that isn't a good thing... Too flimsy, that the beefier s mod would be ideal, while still making it the weakest point. IMO.

I was gonna get some lower a arms and drill a few strategically placed holes to see if it weakens it a bit more, clamp it to something solid on my shop press, and crank on it with the shop press to see what PSI it gives...

Anyone want to donate some old summit a arms?? for scientific purposes?
 

tex78

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Yeah I just finished pulling my S mod out. Actually not a bad job at all. Im not beefing mine up at all. The thought of changing an E mod out makes me want to puke in my mouth.

I remember this being talked about on dootalk years back......anyone experiment with drilling holes in the back of the a arms to provide an easier failure point? My biggest concern would be not making them too weak.
A few of us have talked about it, but worry the same

Broken arm in the middle of no where would be worse than a bent s module but still ride it back
 

Bnorth

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This is why at least 3 different companies make brace kits. Saves the S-mod and if you hit hard enough to wreck an E-mod you were probably going to be doing one anyway.
 

mountainsledmania

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I ordered the freeride module. Was somehow 10 bux cheaper then the summit one and has more bracing? I'll probably be needing a arms as well but we will see. Lol

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