Need opinion on a/m belts !

[ONETON]

Hi, just blew my stock belt with 992 miles on. I am now looking at the Gates extreme or the Dayco XTX belt. Has anyone had any experience with these belts or if they would last longer then the 377 brp belts.
Thanks for all input on this !

 

[neilsleder]

I have had 2 xtx belts now and they don't last. I get about 500 at the max out of them and over 1000 out of the stock belt. I never tried the gates though.

 

[Cowboy151]

I have been using the Gates Extreme belts since 2008. I like them the best. Not only can I get them through my local NAPA, they stand up. The one for the 800 is the 43x4320.

 

[takethebounce]

a 1000 miles on a belt, and thats an issue? Did it pull a cord and you didn't catch it in time? Did it just blow without any signs of wear?

Yes people have had luck with the Gates. Gates actually makes the BRP belts to BRP's specs. Its a good practice to replace your belt with a new one each season.

 

[ONETON]

No complaint on the miles, just giving the number when it went, its my first belt. all the cords on the inner side came out. caught it on time when i stopped for lunch. does that mean anything for clutches ? just looking at getting more money for a new belt to repair other damaged parts on sled that occured this past trip..........

 

[takethebounce]

Belts come apart with heat. The glued construction starts to fail when a certain temperature. Reduce the heat and the belt will last longer.

If you caught it in time and no belt parts or cords wrapped around the primary, you should be okay. Its a good practice to pop the clutches off and clean them out anyways though. Belt dust will cause clutch parts to wear quicker.

Like mentioned, other belts work. Do they last longer than the OEM belts? Not usually. Go figure, BRP had something built something that is meant to last.

 

[cdnemsguy]

I have and use the BRP belts but find them pricey so I bought an XTX to try. It is a spare belt in the holder for getting home as it is not a true 1.5" width of belt that the clutch is setup for. I do use the XTX in my wifes and the other lower power sleds without any concerns. I just want the best response to the wider belt works for me.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I'm trying the Gates as well. Is it just me or is it shorter? Should I set the clutcing up any different to compensate?

 

[macronut]

.....

 

[pfi572]

Some info from Joey at revzone.
Quote;
Belt Temperature Limits (belt death sentence temps)
Belt temperatures I've personally measured on 163's and 154's
The 377, can take up to 205 degrees, at 210 the chord will start to work its way out.
The 288, can take up to 195 degrees, at 200 the chord will start to work its way out.
The 166 / 391 can take up to 185 degrees, at 190 the chord will start to work its way out.
The 383 can't take any heat, it just explodes when run hard after 160~180 degrees.
Color on side of drive belt - Take a look at the angled side of the drive belt. Notice when-new that the color of the surface has a green tint to it. That green tint can be used as a color indicator of when you are at the high-limit of the belt temperature.
Example 377 drive belt - the drive belt will reveal a green tint on the side of the drive belt up to and about 195~200 degrees. Once past 200 degrees the green will fade out and now black color will be observed. You get the side of the drive belt to that black color and it stays black in color then that is an indication you have overheated the drive belt.
You can take 3M scotchbrite pads and wash away the black deposits and have the side of the belt brighten up, however once at that black point, even after cleaning you will probably notice the black color will quickly return even 10~15 degrees below the failure temperature. The black color is an indication that the belt is ready to fail when its temperature approaches the upper limit, when will it fail? - beware of climbing that chute to where you need the belt to be at its best, personally I would not use a belt that keeps revealing the black color. What I mention above is only MY observations and not to be taken as "advice", rather I am only explaining what data I have personally recorded with me and my great test buddies.
Other belt brands ...Have you tried the more economical carlisle 821 or gates 43x4320 Xtreme - use the summit xp belt even on the REV chassis.
The Gates data sheet says to 230 degrees. Follow Gates guide on how to break-in properly and allow the new belt to conform to the angles of the clutch sheaves, which will allow for greater more stable output of power to the track.
You'll find that the gates belt reveals the same quirks as the 391 in the first 1/2 tank of gas but once broken in and taken a "set" then the rpms will come around and be stable and easy to calibrate.
When a chord starts to pop out, snip it off and push the chord back in the slot, then burn the rubber with a match or torch to try to encase the chord again. (i got this information out of a 1996 BRP 440 race manual)
When running a certain drive belt, try to have the spare belt as the same model (don't mix n match) if you can help it as to keep the full throttle rpms the same regardless of the drive or spare belt use.
Top of page
Aftermarket vs. OEM belts - regarding rpms at full throttle .
The rubber compounds of aftermarket belts are generally softer than the original BRP drive belt.
IF you were running the BRP belt and observed your rated rpm (example 8000) and THEN change to an example Carlisle XS803 belt, [reset the belt deflection if required or if you can] and go out and run the sled full throttle. You will observe 7800 rpms at full throttle. The softer compound works harder against the sheave thus causing lower rpms.
What do you do about the 200 rpms loss. 1)change flyweight, or 2)increase clicker number.

Full throttle looking for about 8000 on the tachometer.
Observed 200 rpm lower (7800) at full throttle
Theory
1g = approximate 200 rpms difference.
Need more rpms = reduce pinweight
Need less rpms = add pinweight.

Example: If you needed 8000 and have 23.5g pins installed.
You run and reveal 7700.
8100 – 7700 = 400 rpms. 1g = 200 rpm change.
23.5g – 2g = 21.5g
And go out and do a full throttle run again.
Theory
1 clicker number = approximate 200 rpms difference.
Need more rpms = raise clicker
Need less rpms = lower clicker
Example; if you needed 8000 and observed 7800 while in clicker 3
Then change to clicker 4 and go retest at full throttle.
For mountain and backcountry riders who want the belt to grab hard in the trees and lug the engine to prevent the track from trenching, then can go to a softer drive belt whether it be a BRP or Aftermarket. The softer belt will reveal a more "Squishy" throttle feel, when crawling through the trees. This commentary has been gathered from many tuners.

 

[ONETON]

Thanks pfi572, thats alot of info....... Well I put on the gates belt and put on about 70 miles. belt and sled ran fine with no problems. actually noticed hardly any if anything no rubber compound residue on the primary clutch surfaces...for the price I paid for it hopefully it will last as long as the 377 !

 

[pfi572]

No problem hope it works out. Nice to save a buck or two if a person can.