My garage build

Dawizman

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these little guys work awesome if you need to get the condensate to another location



Amazon product ASIN B000CCMUCM
I put the washroom on the other side of the wall, so my main vent stack is about 28" away. I shouldn't have any trouble tieing the condensate drain and prv's in to that.

Might need one if those if I decide I need a dehumidifier though.
 

pano-dude

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Something I discovered already - with the system pressure set too high when cold, the expansion will cause the relief valve to bleed fluid off, and then drop the pressure down too low when it cools off. My boiler minimum is 20psi for it to cut in - and 30 psi is the relief pressure. My first run I aired the pressure tank up to 28psi and filled the system to that pressure. It worked fine - but it bled a lot off out of the relief valve. I've since set the tank to 20psi and set my make up auto feed valve to 20psi. I'm hoping that this will eliminate and need for make-up. If I still see too much bleed-off happening, I may look at up sizing my expansion tank to allow more volume and prevent bleed off.
It's not a pressure tank it is an expansion tank(different from a well pressure tank) It allows the system to increase pressure when heating but not over pressurize the system.
Those small tanks are factory set at probably 10psi but it should say on it.
To get the correct pressure fill the system with the circ pump off. Then start either the axiom tank which are set for 20psi or use another pump and watch your system gauge. Fill to 20 psi and then stop. Start circ pump and run until air bleeds out and recheck pressure.
If you have added 28psi to the expansion tank it will not allow enough expansion of the heated fluids.
You will need to isolate the expansion tank and bleed off the system pressure and then reduce the pressure in the tank to factory settings.
 

Dawizman

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It's not a pressure tank it is an expansion tank(different from a well pressure tank) It allows the system to increase pressure when heating but not over pressurize the system.
Those small tanks are factory set at probably 10psi but it should say on it.
To get the correct pressure fill the system with the circ pump off. Then start either the axiom tank which are set for 20psi or use another pump and watch your system gauge. Fill to 20 psi and then stop. Start circ pump and run until air bleeds out and recheck pressure.
If you have added 28psi to the expansion tank it will not allow enough expansion of the heated fluids.
You will need to isolate the expansion tank and bleed off the system pressure and then reduce the pressure in the tank to factory settings.
Wrong terms, but yes you are correct is an expansion tank. I've already isolated the tank and lowered the pressure. The tank was set to 12psi from factory which was too low for my system.. My I think. I may have to revisit. The commissioning instructions for my boiler say to fill the system to between 20 and 30 psi for the de-aeration process. But further reading leads me to believe it will operate down to 13psi.
 

t300

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Cool garage build! Re boiler, bought a new place in may and come to find that the fancy combi boiler with a million zones was not piped anywhere close to properly as p/s, and no maintenance shutoffs, now I got a problem on my hands to get it working properly. Seems like you guys posting here know more than any local expert I’ve talked to so far that’s for sure
 

maxwell

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Cool garage build! Re boiler, bought a new place in may and come to find that the fancy combi boiler with a million zones was not piped anywhere close to properly as p/s, and no maintenance shutoffs, now I got a problem on my hands to get it working properly. Seems like you guys posting here know more than any local expert I’ve talked to so far that’s for sure

it is a real problem, i had a new boiler installed and what a mess. Ended up reading the instructions, doing it myself and not paying them.
 

Dawizman

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Cool garage build! Re boiler, bought a new place in may and come to find that the fancy combi boiler with a million zones was not piped anywhere close to properly, and no maintenance shutoffs, now I got a problem on my hands to get it working properly. Seems like you guys posting here know more than any local expert I’ve talked to so far that’s for sure
My experience has led me to understand that a successful boiler install involves a fair amount of planning and math. Most plumbers understand ch!t flows downhill. Not an insult to the truly exceptional plumbers and hvac techs out there. It's an issue with every skilled trade really.
 

Caper11

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Cool garage build! Re boiler, bought a new place in may and come to find that the fancy combi boiler with a million zones was not piped anywhere close to properly as p/s, and no maintenance shutoffs, now I got a problem on my hands to get it working properly. Seems like you guys posting here know more than any local expert I’ve talked to so far that’s for sure

Plumbers should go for extensive training to install infloor or at least have the system designed properly and have a proper tubing run blueprint to follow.

I also agree, Maintenance shut off on every tubing run is very important, especially when I found a leak with a thermal camera, I definitely added shutoffs to all the runs when I had the leak repaired.

I do I like the flow meters on the header as well instead of using ball valves to balance the flow.

Here is a safety tip for everyone, make sure your boiler heat exchanger is flowing flue gas through it not caked with deposits, not allowing flue gas to vent spilling into the house or garage. A cold water return to the boiler is the cause of this.
I know of a personally know family who almost died because of this, they are very lucky. Mount lots of carbon monoxide detectors up high, carbon monoxide is lighter than air.


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