TROLLCAT
Active VIP Member
wiring harnes have been issue on m1000 lots of shaking at low rpm hard on wires
m1000 flooding at w.o.t. on one cylinder
- Thread starter mattsterz
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mattsterz
Active member
yes it is a 09 m1000 sp,ran with a superq can last year put 800 miles on not a problem.i put on a racepak with egts and a a/f ratio on the stock exhaust just to get a baseline for future mods.first ride out this year noticed had no top end,pulled over shut it off,fired it back up rode for two days never noticed again.the next ride acted up all day.right now one minute its good the next its not.i can get it to act up any time i want just by trying wot.against a snow bank.as for the oil in front of throttle bodies when it was stripped to the reeds there was a lttle oil nothing too bad.
Wil E. Coyote
Member
I getting mine closer to fixed. My issue was a combination of things that started with fouled plugs from breaking it in, which then lead to the oil in front of the Mag side intake, but in the end it was the Power valves. I checked them agian last night and they were 1.33in which is a hair long, so I shortened them to 1.31in (which is shorter than the factory spec of 1.319in) I wanted to see if I would pull a code on the power valve circuit. I put it on the test bench and verified that the power valves were opening. I took it for a ride and it ran great pulling 7400rpm, but when would go out in the powder (60 plus cm no base) after a while I would get a ECU 1 and ECU 17 code and have a loss of power. As soon as I would bring it back to normal snow say 30cm it would clean up agian and run great. Put on 11miles now I just have to figure out what a ECU 1 code is? The 17 is the exhaust sensor fault.
I think I'm getting closer.
I think I'm getting closer.
Uturn
Active VIP Member
Mine is just the opposite of these. I have 08 M1000 without reflash. Runs on one cylinder up to 5000 rpm, the starts to clean up and run not bad. Gone through clutches twice, pulled apart every electrical plug and added dielectric grease, changed plugs several times, plug wires look good. Power valves cleaned and set. Now I'm going to check the reeds.
I wish I was getting closer
I wish I was getting closer
Captain Undies
Active member
I would check your fuel regulator. I run an 08 m1000 and had the same problem. I leaned down my mag cylinder with pcv5 controller and it worked great, but i wasnt satisfied with that as a solution. I put a fuel pressure gauge in line and looked at the pressure and I was at 43 psi(to much) with the added pressure it pushs more fuel past the one injector on the mag side because this is the first one to recieve fuel.(i think). I installed a fuel regulater and set it at 38psi and my flooding issue was gone. My mag side still ran a little cooler(25-30 degrees) but i could run the same map on both cylinders without issue, and with a little tuning I had both cylinders within 5 degrees of each other and I have had no issue since
This is going to sound crazy but had the exact same problems with my 1000 and Both times this happened i found that the exhaust can had failed and the packing was partially blocking the outlet causing the problem. I wish I had checked the can before I checked all the other possible causes. Simple check with a mirror and flashlight can save hours of needless testing and disassembly and playing with numbers on the box inspecting all the wiring etc...
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mattsterz
Active member
if you want to hear crazy, i put frog skinz on this year and thought it might be that causing all my headaches.thats what i am reduced to.thinking like a mental patient lol.but just for the record the first thing i did is put the stock can back on.no improvement.
Shredder
Active VIP Member
I'd be looking for a different dealer if I were you.
Has anyone replaced a stator and found that that fixed the issue? I would think that that if the issue is that common a dealer somewhere must have troubleshot it and come up with a solution.Wil E. Coyote
Member
mattsterz - I found a broken wire right in the plug for the Exhaust temp sensor, cut out the plug and fixed the code 17 / 1 issue. Still in the deep powder around home It would act up and bog. So I shortened up the Power valve cables even more to the minimum tolerance of 1.28". I went out to the mountians this weekend and put on 50 miles no issue. I'm going to test it around home agian to see if it will do it here agian.
On all the forums people state that 34.5mm is where the power valves on a M1000 should be set but in my maintenance manual it states 1.319" +/- 0.039" which equates to 1.28" to 1.358" or 32.5mm to 34.5mm so the 34.5mm is on the high end of the scale.
Not sure if altitude has something to do with it also? Is the ECU overcompensating for low elevation?
On all the forums people state that 34.5mm is where the power valves on a M1000 should be set but in my maintenance manual it states 1.319" +/- 0.039" which equates to 1.28" to 1.358" or 32.5mm to 34.5mm so the 34.5mm is on the high end of the scale.
Not sure if altitude has something to do with it also? Is the ECU overcompensating for low elevation?
Team Pigeon
Active VIP Member
What egt temps are you seeing?
Are you running an air-fuel gauge?
M1000's can often run real rich, something like a boondocker or power commander might maybe help you out.
You can also wire up a 470k ohm resistor onto an old pipe temp sensor plug. Keep it in your pack/tool kit just in case your sensor fails out in the bush.
BUT remember if you run a resistor when your sled is cold, stay off the pipe until the sled is warm. If not, you may cold seize. When the sled is cold, with the resistor - it'll think it's warm and cut fuel. Cutting fuel = increase egts = Piston growing too big too fast and your day is done.
I read some guys wiring a switch in the dash to be real safe.
Are you running an air-fuel gauge?
M1000's can often run real rich, something like a boondocker or power commander might maybe help you out.
You can also wire up a 470k ohm resistor onto an old pipe temp sensor plug. Keep it in your pack/tool kit just in case your sensor fails out in the bush.
BUT remember if you run a resistor when your sled is cold, stay off the pipe until the sled is warm. If not, you may cold seize. When the sled is cold, with the resistor - it'll think it's warm and cut fuel. Cutting fuel = increase egts = Piston growing too big too fast and your day is done.
I read some guys wiring a switch in the dash to be real safe.
tjcw
New member
I have the exact same problem dealer checked egt sensor, nothing changed.clean and adjusted power and intake valves, nothing. Just told me injectors are ready 3-4 ohms should be 10-140 ohms, they say I need two new injectors. At 1100.00 bucks nice fix, not. I find this hard to believe because only pto side cylinder loading up, sparks plugs wet, changed twice in 600 miles. pto side only ones that are wet looking, clutch side looks alright. Let you know if this fixes it, if it doesn't going to have a bird. Year old sled and 1500.00 bill to keep running. If so last cat this guy will own.
injectors held pressure no leak down in pressure, fuel pressure right at 42 psi. Asked about mag they said mag has two pic ups that feed ecu then go to injectors. tried different ecu nothing changed. anybody have any ideas or comments?
injectors held pressure no leak down in pressure, fuel pressure right at 42 psi. Asked about mag they said mag has two pic ups that feed ecu then go to injectors. tried different ecu nothing changed. anybody have any ideas or comments?
moyiesledhead
Active VIP Member
Anybody checked their reeds yet? Just thinkin' out loud.
ajay
Active member
In the same boat, have egt's. Mag side starts to loose spark after warm up or hardon throttle. Usually about 2-300F colder. Will clear up sometimes and some times not. Changed all wires, moved harness behind coils from squashed under tank, put some tape under small coil wires cause seemed to be rubbing on tunnel....seams better but not going away and no codes. When it runs right its crazy then when its not well it's a dog. Anyone???
Romabout
New member
Welcome to my world. Having same issues. I have 08 M-1 Full slp pipe set. My problems started just with bogging always at the worst time. You know climbing that hill come to top and letting of for a sec. then need to hammer it to get over that last knoll then it bog's. Or going easy down that hill towards the tree's and the only way out is carve around and up and the bog happens again.
This prob. has progressively got worse now to the point of the first quarter mile on the way in. Hammer down it rips, try to ride trail and there it is one cylinder gone. it does clean out once in a wile. Mainly if I shut down for a couple minutes start and rip works great until I try feather around anything the most times it cuts out again.
I've changed from purlojic controller to Power commander v and SLP's leaner map. I found 1 chip reed and changed all. Changed wires and caps SLP tech said they had problems with the resistor caps.
I've even pulled jug's changed rings to make sure I have none sticking. SLP said they had great success with the extended Iridum spark plugs and tried that.
I always keep thinking electrical because the cylinder seams to cut out. We have no place here in PG to do flow test on the injectors I wanted to check the spray pattern. The dealer here says either they work or they don't. if they click with a 9 v bat there working.
I'm now trying Sea Foam fuel additive. My Sunday ride the sled acted crappy in the morning but cleaned out allot by the time we got in to the area to play, still had 2 two or three bogs but it ran really good on the way out with out one losing the cylinder like the day before.
What fuel is everyone using in their sleds?
I've have been running marked fuel for three years now. Just maybe this is the problem. Going to run a full can through with unmarked fuel and see.
This prob. has progressively got worse now to the point of the first quarter mile on the way in. Hammer down it rips, try to ride trail and there it is one cylinder gone. it does clean out once in a wile. Mainly if I shut down for a couple minutes start and rip works great until I try feather around anything the most times it cuts out again.
I've changed from purlojic controller to Power commander v and SLP's leaner map. I found 1 chip reed and changed all. Changed wires and caps SLP tech said they had problems with the resistor caps.
I've even pulled jug's changed rings to make sure I have none sticking. SLP said they had great success with the extended Iridum spark plugs and tried that.
I always keep thinking electrical because the cylinder seams to cut out. We have no place here in PG to do flow test on the injectors I wanted to check the spray pattern. The dealer here says either they work or they don't. if they click with a 9 v bat there working.
I'm now trying Sea Foam fuel additive. My Sunday ride the sled acted crappy in the morning but cleaned out allot by the time we got in to the area to play, still had 2 two or three bogs but it ran really good on the way out with out one losing the cylinder like the day before.
What fuel is everyone using in their sleds?
I've have been running marked fuel for three years now. Just maybe this is the problem. Going to run a full can through with unmarked fuel and see.
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
Are you running SLP's map for your PCV? Or just autotune? I have a similar setup on mine, but SLP's map was garbage. I honestly think the APV system causes a lot of grief on the M1's - I pulled them off when sled was new and never looked back (and never had problems, either) They are also starved for air out of the box in my opinion... PM me with details, maybe I can help.
0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
ALL M1000 owners please read the following: I've been reading your comments with great interest, as I had similar issues in 2007 when I purchased my M1000. I've spent some cash on it to get it working the way I think it should, and learned a few things along the way. Today is your lucky day, cause I'm gonna share my findings with you...
First off, throw the APV system in the trash. Somewhere between the crank sensor, TPS, ECU, and APV servo, the timing is off. The ECU sees a certain RPM and orders more fuel because of the higher exhaust port and timing advance. However, the power valves hang up momentarily when the fuel is being poured in, causing an overfueling condition. The ECU sees the stumble in RPM, and asks for the APV system to enter a "low port mode" again, although the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU to add fuel, the "piggyback system (APV) can not react in time. You can see this on the EGT's plain as day. Some are worse then others due to higher fuel pressure in the rail (fuel pressure regulator). The sled tends to run rich in stock form anyway, partly due to the mapping, and partly due to the restricted airbox. I may also point out that the M1000 is a mountain sled, not a trail sled - it wasn't meant or designed to be ridden at low elevations....here is the fix.
1 - Install a set of Supreme Tool and Machine bellows style exhaust valves, and the resistor they sell to fool the ignition timing
2 - Disconnect the throttle safety switch, but ONLY if you install a tether and use it.
3 - Check your fuel pressure - mine is 40 lbs
4 - If you are running an aftermarket pipe, y-pipe, and can, buy a PCV, and purchase a map from Racin Station if you haven't done so. Eric is good to deal with, and will work with you to help dial it in. Otherwise, invest in dyno time. Bear in mind if you trail ride you'll need two maps.
5- Modify the stock airbox, and no, I'm not going to tell you how to do it. I tried BDX Black box and others, my setup worked the best for me. This sled needs to breathe..
6 - Invest in a set of fast response EGT's for tuning.
Pretty simple, my sled has run flawless since doing the above. It's for sale now, as I'm buying a four stroke.
First off, throw the APV system in the trash. Somewhere between the crank sensor, TPS, ECU, and APV servo, the timing is off. The ECU sees a certain RPM and orders more fuel because of the higher exhaust port and timing advance. However, the power valves hang up momentarily when the fuel is being poured in, causing an overfueling condition. The ECU sees the stumble in RPM, and asks for the APV system to enter a "low port mode" again, although the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU to add fuel, the "piggyback system (APV) can not react in time. You can see this on the EGT's plain as day. Some are worse then others due to higher fuel pressure in the rail (fuel pressure regulator). The sled tends to run rich in stock form anyway, partly due to the mapping, and partly due to the restricted airbox. I may also point out that the M1000 is a mountain sled, not a trail sled - it wasn't meant or designed to be ridden at low elevations....here is the fix.
1 - Install a set of Supreme Tool and Machine bellows style exhaust valves, and the resistor they sell to fool the ignition timing
2 - Disconnect the throttle safety switch, but ONLY if you install a tether and use it.
3 - Check your fuel pressure - mine is 40 lbs
4 - If you are running an aftermarket pipe, y-pipe, and can, buy a PCV, and purchase a map from Racin Station if you haven't done so. Eric is good to deal with, and will work with you to help dial it in. Otherwise, invest in dyno time. Bear in mind if you trail ride you'll need two maps.
5- Modify the stock airbox, and no, I'm not going to tell you how to do it. I tried BDX Black box and others, my setup worked the best for me. This sled needs to breathe..
6 - Invest in a set of fast response EGT's for tuning.
Pretty simple, my sled has run flawless since doing the above. It's for sale now, as I'm buying a four stroke.
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