Hone cylinders or just throw in the new pistons and rings?

[fnDan]

I have my top end apart and ready to put back together.
My cylinders look really good considering almost 8000 kms.
The previous owner had updated the pistons but that was almost 4000 kms back.

Considering the cylinders look good, do I need to bother with a ball hone? I don't have one and would have to go out and buy it. Do I scuff them with a red scotchbrite pad?

 

[Polarblu]

put the cross hatch into the cylinder EVERYTIME you replace the rings. its crucial to get new rings to seat. if you don't your cylinders will glaze and you will loose compression fast.

 

[moto5151]

cross hatches are crucial. i use a three finger stone to put in light cross hatches. just remember to use oil as you do this. clean the cylinders, and add oil again before installing the pistons. you can buy the stones for cheap at princess auto.

 

[fnDan]

I've read - never to use stones on nikasil coated cylinders.
Thanks for the replies.

What you guys using to seal the head bolts?

 

[Stg2Suby]

Top-end is still a relatively big job for me; only done 2 sleds and 1 dirt bike so far. Given the amount of work involved for the entire job I've had the cylinders honed each time to make me feel better about doing it correctly. The M8 cylinder in the pic was done by Mots and I think they use a diamond-tip hone of some type.

 

[Polarblu]

Stones and ball are the same material, a stone is better cause you can adjust the pressure. Who ever told you not to use a stone is misinformed. The whole process takes less that a minute, you are not removing material just scratching up what there.

 

[fnDan]

Found some basic instructions tucked with the Wiseco piston kit. They say never use a all hone on coated cylinders.
Thanks for the help.

 

[moto5151]

ive honed alot of cylinders, it will be fine. like i said earlier, use a bit of oil while doing it. i use the finger type hone cause i can set the pressure that the stones press against the cyl wall. set it at a low pressure, use a drill on low speed and just go in and out with a steady pace. being carefull on the ends so the stones dont cock at at 45 degree angle, or pop out. run it through a few times and inspect. you have an idea of what it should look like. increase the pressure of the stones if needed. nickoseal is tough, it will take a longer time then you think to damage the cyl bore.
i put head bolts in dry, you can use a very small dab of coppercoat or something like that. reason being, the metal bolt and alluminum block heat at different rates, and usually causes seizing. but its usually fine.

 

[Polarblu]

Found some basic instructions tucked with the Wiseco piston kit. They say never use a all hone on coated cylinders.
Thanks for the help.

please scan this and post!!! i have no problem being wrong!!!

 

[Stg2Suby]

please scan this and post!!! i have no problem being wrong!!!

I've read it before too, I think it's just a disclaimer in case people do the honing too deep and go through the coating.

 

[fnDan]

please scan this and post!!! i have no problem being wrong!!!

Definitely not trying to say anyone is wrong. I was just passing along information that I found from Wiseco. I looked at my post and I meant to say never use a "ball" hone. I missed a letter. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[fnDan]

Finally got out on the sled with the new top end. Everything is working great and the power and snap is back.
I'd recommend everyone pull their bellows out and check them for oil build up. Mine had a fairly thick layer of oil on the underside of the bellows which would definitely affect their operation.
It's an easy job too.