Fire Aftermath: Replacing Oil Tank & Repairing Oil Line

nickhesson

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I've managed to lite my oil tank on fire last year and have finally gotten around to removing it to be replaced and have found that the oil line itself has some slight melting. It's a small area but Im hoping I can repair it instead of replacing the whole line, as it looks rather tedious to do.

Sled is a 07 SkiDoo Summit X 800. Any help would be great. Thanks!


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by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr
 

powerteker

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I did the same thing two winters ago....Have Fun! Just replace everything burnt and u wont heve to worry about it anymore. Yours looks worst than mine was theo I got the fire out quick! apply heat tape to ur oil tank too!
 

coolcam

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Best to replace, but... I would cut out damaged area and put in a hose barb fitting. I'm pretty sure the spring inside is just to prevent collapsing of the hose. Just trim it back, the hose barb won't collapse.

Don't do it tonight though, I'm sure someone else will come up with something better right away.

Replace your brake hose.
 
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tex78

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I've managed to lite my oil tank on fire last year and have finally gotten around to removing it to be replaced and have found that the oil line itself has some slight melting. It's a small area but Im hoping I can repair it instead of replacing the whole line, as it looks rather tedious to do.

Sled is a 07 SkiDoo Summit X 800. Any help would be great. Thanks!


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr

did u forget the brake on?????????? how the hell did it start on fire? the chain oil? forgot the oil cap off?
 

Johnny

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X2 how did this happen ??? Ive never heard of this before and dont want it to happen to me ...........
 

nickhesson

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Yeah, I left the brake on like a moron. And the oil cap i had sucked, it was slightly leaking.. so a little bit of oil on that brake and voila..

does no one have any recommendations on what type of sealant i could apply to this?
 

nickhesson

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Hmm.. Where is the oil pump? yes im that noob... the metal needle looking thing?


I dont see any air in the line...... however i guess that would change if i were to replace the line.. it seems full of oil right now.. am i doing something wrong already? lol


here are a few more pictures of where i am at now.



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr


by HessonPhotography, on Flickr
 
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nickhesson

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alright, so update: I have successfully removed the oil line, which as relatively short, as we disconnected at the filter. the spring inside the line was easily removed as well. Got a new line for $3.00 with a little extra. Also go screw fasteners instead of using the red clips that come with.

Ive also noticed that the brakeline should be replaced as it is pretty thin, and i suspect that the brake fluid is actually what spewed out and caught on fire. The question is, should I take apart the break mechanism and clean it out? I also noticed that the disc is somewhat loose. Is there a way to tighten this or is that normal? The breaks still work, but id feel safer replacing the line.

Ive also managed to lose the pull cable into the mechanism, so I assume I just take that part to get it back?

Thanks for the help so far guys. Ive got a ton of degreaser and I'll be spending the next day cleaning everything. Will probably tape up the electrical cables as well just to be safe, some have been exposed.

Question: Is the battery for the electric starter only or does the sled require the battery as well for instrumentation?
 
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nickhesson

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The brake line is definitely crispy... Oddly the brakes still work.... However I am almost certain now that the fire was caused by the brakeline rupturing/overheating and the brake fluid spurting out. At first I thought it was the oil tank but it clearly wasnt the initial cause at least.


How would I go about checking the break pads? and any other break parts. I assume i have to remove the unit anyways to get at the pullcord rope mechanism.


Here is a better pic of the brake disc and breakline damage.



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr



by HessonPhotography, on Flickr
 

powerteker

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change ur brake pads and rotor. the fire I had wasent as bad as urs and my upper chaincase seal leaked after as well... I changed the seal and bearing just to be sure...put a new brake cable on aswell Im sure it will start to leak soon. I had to change fuel and coolant lines aswell and urs look burnt to me. dont cheap out and fix everything that got burnt or u will have trouble in the future. also the white sensor that u think is the oil pump it accualy ur oil level sensor.
 
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nickhesson

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Ok so I've gotten everything hooked up, bled the oil, and now im trying to start it.. however i just pull and pull and pull. it just wont turn over.

I have the battery disconnected right now but Im thinking I should hook it back up and try the electric start (ususally doesnt even work)..

any other thoughts? Ive checked all the cables to make sure its all good, key is in, half a tank of gas (premixed for cautionary concerns).. just not sure what else could be the problem...

Thoughts?
 

powerteker

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i Hope u cleaned the carbs after u pressure washed it?? check for spark and see if the motor is getting fuel.. thats a good start
 

nickhesson

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I have not pressure washed it. Will do that once I know its running.

I cannot get the spark plugs to spark. Gas is definitely coming in, and I also tried putting some gas in there manually. no luck.

Im reading that if you take the carbs off, your suppose to "Reset" the throttle positons etc, but of course the service manual shows that you need the B.U.D.S. software to do that.

Is there a chance that something HAS TO be reset at the dealership?

anything I can check to make sure the ignition coil is getting a charge...?
 

nickhesson

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Okay so heres the update. I have found that by disconnecting the handwarmers/killswitch cable, the engine starts on one quick pull. idle's great. But this is making no sense to me...


So in order to start the engine, I must disconnect the connectors for the killswitch and handwarmers. No here is the weird part. If I plug the connectors back in while its running, all of a sudden the killswitch will actually work like it suppose to. However Once I shut it off, I cannot start the engine again until I disconnect the cables.


That being said, I figure okay, lets try starting it with it connected but remove the kill switch cable connection to the actual button itself. It was very corroded underneath however, even after removing this, it still did not solve the problem, the engine will still only start if the cable is disconnected.


So if it's not my killswitch thats the problem, could it possible be something to do with the hand warmers? And riddle me this... why does the killswitch work when I plug it back in after the machine is started. If there was a problem, wouldnt it not work at all when reconnected?



Oh and im using a Canon T2i
 

nickhesson

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Sorry, I forgot to update everyone!!


The sled now works!! What i ended up doing was disconnecting the connectors at the middle top of the handlebar, cleaned them out, reconnected, and voila! Everything works!


The lowdown since running it a bit.


Currently the engine light blinks (orange) with no beeping, which i am assuming is because i have the airbox off, as its easier to watch the oil line.


The oil line appears to be working, I see a small air bubble right before the pump, however, I believe i do see the level going down from where i marked it on the tank.. so it appears oil is flowing. nonetheless i have premixed the gas with oil to be safe.


I had taken the killswitch apart as i though it was suspect which it wasn't and now i have 4 springs, a ball, a plate, and a cover.. not sure how the hell this goes back together... any help there?


so all in all, everything appears to be working. i have it lifted off the ground right now and let it idle for about 5 minutes and feather the throttle slightly here and there to get some flow going and see if the oil is getting pulled through.


I do here an odd noise from the brake disc rotar but it looks to perform normal. maybe its just because ive never realy listened to my engine so close and paid so much attention to the noises. lol


any suggestions from here on out would be awesome!
 
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