Break In Proceadure New Short Block

KVF 700

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just wondering what a good break in proceadure would be to break in a brand new short block in a 02 700 summit. 100-200km of easy trail riding with no wide open throttle, as well as add some oil in the gas tank? Also the dealer talked me into burning semi synthetic BRP. is this this necessary? ive always always burnt BRP mineral oil since new. any suggestions or ideas would be great!!:)
 
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powerteker

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With a 2 stroke I think using a wide range of throtle is better for break-in and try not to stay at the same rpm for a long time.....sombody say somthing if this is wrong more info is always good!!!!
 

Bogger

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just wondering what a good break in proceadure would be to break in a brand new short block in a 02 700 summit. 100-200km of easy trail riding with no wide open throttle, as well as add some oil in the gas tank? Also the dealer talked me into burning semi synthetic BRP. is this this necessary? ive always always burnt BRP mineral oil since new. any suggestions or ideas would be great!!:)

Thats pretty much my plan for breaking in the rebuild...... brap it lots and avoid the WOT.........
 

maxwell

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run mineral oil not synthetic.

also

ride it how YOU are going to ride it

if that involves wide open throttle then thats how it is.

just try and avoid it for a long duration of time

add 1l of oil to the first tank and then it is considered broken in.

break your motor in like a pussy and it will run like a pussy for the duration of its life

also try and avoid holding a steady rpm for a long duration of time
 

Murminator

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I use oil in the gas... get it good an hot use all the throttle just don't stab it nice a smooth. shut it down let it cool right down. They do it all over again. Couple times doing this should seat the rings nice. I put 100K+ before I get on it hard
 

KVF 700

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run mineral oil not synthetic.

also

ride it how YOU are going to ride it

if that involves wide open throttle then thats how it is.

just try and avoid it for a long duration of time

add 1l of oil to the first tank and then it is considered broken in.

break your motor in like a pussy and it will run like a pussy for the duration of its life

also try and avoid holding a steady rpm for a long duration of time

you mean avoid long duration of wide open throttle during the break in right? or just in general...
 

maxwell

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just during break in. but thats just for safey there isnt really anything wrong with it.

you need to hit wot for some time to seat the rings properly.

if you need to break it in without riding it you can do this.

let the sled warm up to full operating temperature. and let sit for one hour

repeat that 3 times.

then go hard when you hit the snow.

other wise follow my other instructions.
 

Bogger

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Didn't know this.... I've already had it running up to full operating temp 3 times....let it run 10 mins prior to loading to bring it home, ran for 15 minutes after unlaoding at home then on saturday I let it run for 15 mins just to verrify that it actually ran....:d

just during break in. but thats just for safey there isnt really anything wrong with it.

you need to hit wot for some time to seat the rings properly.

if you need to break it in without riding it you can do this.

let the sled warm up to full operating temperature. and let sit for one hour

repeat that 3 times.

then go hard when you hit the snow.

other wise follow my other instructions.
 

sledderdoc

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All above info is correct. Also avoid driving at any one RPM for prolonged periods. Go to WOT sometimes for sure but do vary the RPMs along the way as well. Enjoy the ride!! :beer::d:beer:
 

Modman

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Didn't know this.... I've already had it running up to full operating temp 3 times....let it run 10 mins prior to loading to bring it home, ran for 15 minutes after unlaoding at home then on saturday I let it run for 15 mins just to verrify that it actually ran....:d

Its fine Bogger, heat cycling is not really necessary. Most of the internal parts are subject to far more heat during the forging process than operating temps.

KVF 700 - you can use semi-syn or mineral. Back in the day oil was different and a lot of the internal parts were different, but now with chrome rings and nickasil bores and high silicon pistons, better coating on the pistons (basically better metallurgy and better parts) and better rubber seals, the actual seating of the rings takes far less time than it ever did. The parts are just more slippery than they were 20 yrs ago. There is a debate about mineral vs syn, but really, all new sleds come with syn right out of the box, even for break in. The Dodge Viper comes from the factory with full syn in the crankcase for the break in and you can't run anything but full synthetic. If its good enough for the Viper, its probably Ok to run in your sled. :D Semi-syn still has lots of the mineral oil qualities since its a blend, so you won't be breaking away totally from a mineral based product. Much of the base oil is still the same in blends.

Everything else said above is correct. Lots of good long accelerations to pressure up the rings and push them against the cylinder walls. Don't wait too long to start seating the rings, they start to polish the walls as soon as the motor is running.
 

maxwell

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Its fine Bogger, heat cycling is not really necessary. Most of the internal parts are subject to far more heat during the forging process than operating temps.

KVF 700 - you can use semi-syn or mineral. Back in the day oil was different and a lot of the internal parts were different, but now with chrome rings and nickasil bores and high silicon pistons, better coating on the pistons (basically better metallurgy and better parts) and better rubber seals, the actual seating of the rings takes far less time than it ever did. The parts are just more slippery than they were 20 yrs ago. There is a debate about mineral vs syn, but really, all new sleds come with syn right out of the box, even for break in. The Dodge Viper comes from the factory with full syn in the crankcase for the break in and you can't run anything but full synthetic. If its good enough for the Viper, its probably Ok to run in your sled. :D Semi-syn still has lots of the mineral oil qualities since its a blend, so you won't be breaking away totally from a mineral based product. Much of the base oil is still the same in blends.

Everything else said above is correct. Lots of good long accelerations to pressure up the rings and push them against the cylinder walls. Don't wait too long to start seating the rings, they start to polish the walls as soon as the motor is running.

i guess i shouldnt say dont use semi. i have just always used mineral and when disasembeling motors its fairly eveident that the mineral oil does a wonderfull job.
 
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94fordguy

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In a few words, RUN IT HARD!

When I was breaking in my 900 this year here's what I did.

I heat cycled it a few times at home, up to operating temp, then shut it off... basically just wanted to hear the sled run;):D:d

Threw about 2 cups of synthetic oil in the tank along with synthetic in the oil tank.

Got to the hill for the first days ride, let it warm up thoroughly in the parking lot before hitting the trail, then easy to moderate VARIED throttle for the first 5 miles... varied moderate throttle with short WOT blips for the next 5 miles, played around in the trees for a couple hours riding it how I normally would ride it (taking normal breaks every once in a while) then the last 10 miles back to the truck I rode the living pi$$ out of it, harder and faster than I would ever ride it under normal conditions.

From there on out, ride it like you intend to ride it, if you break it in weak, its gonna run weak, if you break it in hard, its gonna run hard.

I got no complaints, sled runs strong:d:d
 
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