0neoldfart
Active VIP Member
A thought came to mind the other day when I was tuning a friend's sled. He had spent a bunch of $$$ recently on a single pipe set, clutching, tuner, and suspension. His issue was that it didn't run right, nor did it handle very well - was pig rich on the mountain, and it really didn't run that well down here, either. So I fiddled around with it awhile, got it running right, and set the clutching and suspension up to where I thought he would be happy, and he is.
My point is this: EVERY engine is slightly different, so tuning is on a sled by sled basis. You cannot run the same program on two different sleds, especially if there is a two or three year model difference. Unless the ECU is reflashed, all fuel controllers are a "piggyback" design, which references off of the base map in the ECU, and there ARE differences from year to year. Use EGT's / AFR guages, read piston wash and plug color to dial the sled in - this may take a bit of time...
Clutching: this is very dependent on rider weight, riding elevation and snow type. What works at 10000' in Wyoming will be less then stellar at our typical Western Canada riding areas. Clutching changes may be necessary depending whether you ride Revelstoke, Tumbler Ridge, Golden, Mc.Bride, Valemount, etc, and whether the snow is set up or dry powder. If clutching isn't your thing, take it to someone who is proficient at it, and rides the areas you do, and don't expect your mountain calibration to work well on the prairies, if you do ride locally. Know your elevation, rider weight and snow type prior to ordering a clutch "kit" so it is closely matched to you.
Suspension: everyone has their own personal preference. Buying aftermarket shocks off the shelf will improve your ride, but having them built for YOUR weight and riding style brings suspension performance to an entire new level. Your new snowmobile was made for a rider of average height and weight, and likely a novice to intermediate skill level. Riders who push the envelope or women (generally smaller in stature and weight) will require different suspension calibrations then the "average" 5'8", 170 lb rider. Be honest with you abilities, too. Most Pro calibrations are way too firm for most riders - riding a sled set up for a fast Pro rider will be a sure way to knock your fillings loose on small chatter.
Don't "mix and match" performance parts and expect it to run well, as it likely won't, or it will make less power then stock, UNLESS you are purchasing from a reputable tuner that has tested the said combination. Running one vendor's pipe set with another's muffler may result in engine failure. There is the odd exception to this, but it certainly isn't commonplace.
Finally, don't start adding power without "freshening up" the sled. Worn rings, leaking reeds, etc are not going to cure themselves when you "bolt on" performance goodies, or get that head cut. Do it right the first time, and you'll avoid costly repairs. On average, any two stroke that has had a significant power increase via modifications will have a lifespan of about half of a stocker... this is common sense, but often the sales pitch won't tell you about the downside of added performance.
My point is this: EVERY engine is slightly different, so tuning is on a sled by sled basis. You cannot run the same program on two different sleds, especially if there is a two or three year model difference. Unless the ECU is reflashed, all fuel controllers are a "piggyback" design, which references off of the base map in the ECU, and there ARE differences from year to year. Use EGT's / AFR guages, read piston wash and plug color to dial the sled in - this may take a bit of time...
Clutching: this is very dependent on rider weight, riding elevation and snow type. What works at 10000' in Wyoming will be less then stellar at our typical Western Canada riding areas. Clutching changes may be necessary depending whether you ride Revelstoke, Tumbler Ridge, Golden, Mc.Bride, Valemount, etc, and whether the snow is set up or dry powder. If clutching isn't your thing, take it to someone who is proficient at it, and rides the areas you do, and don't expect your mountain calibration to work well on the prairies, if you do ride locally. Know your elevation, rider weight and snow type prior to ordering a clutch "kit" so it is closely matched to you.
Suspension: everyone has their own personal preference. Buying aftermarket shocks off the shelf will improve your ride, but having them built for YOUR weight and riding style brings suspension performance to an entire new level. Your new snowmobile was made for a rider of average height and weight, and likely a novice to intermediate skill level. Riders who push the envelope or women (generally smaller in stature and weight) will require different suspension calibrations then the "average" 5'8", 170 lb rider. Be honest with you abilities, too. Most Pro calibrations are way too firm for most riders - riding a sled set up for a fast Pro rider will be a sure way to knock your fillings loose on small chatter.
Don't "mix and match" performance parts and expect it to run well, as it likely won't, or it will make less power then stock, UNLESS you are purchasing from a reputable tuner that has tested the said combination. Running one vendor's pipe set with another's muffler may result in engine failure. There is the odd exception to this, but it certainly isn't commonplace.
Finally, don't start adding power without "freshening up" the sled. Worn rings, leaking reeds, etc are not going to cure themselves when you "bolt on" performance goodies, or get that head cut. Do it right the first time, and you'll avoid costly repairs. On average, any two stroke that has had a significant power increase via modifications will have a lifespan of about half of a stocker... this is common sense, but often the sales pitch won't tell you about the downside of added performance.
