99 RMK 700 constant burndown

Polarisrid3r

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Hi all,r Sorry if I am repeating a topic, but I don't think there's a similar issue to what I'm having. I have a 99 rmk 700, I bought it 3 years ago from a guy that wasn't sure what was done to it engine wise. It was ported (exhaust) high compression heads, psi pipe, boost bottle, and v force delta 2 reeds. Anyways it burned down shortly after I bought it, mag side went down. So I rebuilt it from bottom to top, ran greatand for 700 Miles and down it went again, so I got rid of the ported cylinders, high compression heads and put stock pistons in it. And again it ran great until recently I was out playing on it and put it on its side in the powder a couple times, and it started running like garbage,I was out trail riding and the temp light came on a couple times, in which I immediately dipped off trail into some snow and cooled we down. So after i t started running like garbafe I pulled it in the shop and found the mag side float to have been stuck and lodged a small piece of plastic in the needle and seat, cleaned it up put it back together and it ran ok, then on one cylinder and then shut down by itself, low compression on the mag side AGAIN. Its jetted fat for the pipe, (210 pto, 215 mag) but I have the air screw on the carb only 1 1/2 turn out, is this wrong for the air. Screw considering it has an aftermarket pipe and boostbottle? And is this the reason the dang thing keeps burning down on me? Thanks for listening to my novel and any input is greatly appreciated.
 

chevy371

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For the 2000 rmk with pipe and stock air box ,running in -20to+10 should be 215(pto)220(mag) and needle clip in the # 4 postion good place to start oh and air screw 1/2 turn out this is from slp site .I have twin PSI pipes on mine and this works for me
 
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