2012 Summit X loosing power

JTT800

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I'm having an issue with my 2012 Summit X and I was hoping someone could help me out.

On my first ride with it I left it completly stock and it worked great. It was only pulling 7700 rpm's so I clickered from 1 to 3 and then it pulled 7900rpm's. The next ride I added a carbon fiber silencer and it ran the same as before, only it was louder. I went with a buddy who has a 2009 Summit and when we switched sleds they seemed very simular in power. We did notice a slight hesitation if you quickly pinned it, but it wasn't bad. I assumed it was just part of the brake in period. It still pulled 7900 rpm very easily and quickly. The next ride I went back to the same area as my second ride, but I could only pull 7700 rpm's again. The snow was deeper, so I clickered from 3 to 4. That got me back to 7900 rpm's and it seemed to pull them fairly quickly. On that ride I was with my brother who has a 2010 summit and when we switched sleds it seemed like the sleds has the same bottom end power, and the etech had better top end power. My brother couldnt notice a hesiation when you quickly pinned it, but I could still slightly feel it. This Saturday we went to the same area again, and as soon as i left the trail and got in the powder I noticed the sled was lacking power. It had a hard time building rpm's. It would still hit 7900 but it would take 1 or 2 seconds to get there. It seemed to get to 6000-7000 rpms quickly and then struggle to get to 7900. So I clickered up to 5 and that helped a bit, but it was still not very responsive. It would pull up to 8000 rpm's. The snow was not as deep as the last time. I also noticed that the sound of the sled has changed. On the first few trips the silencer would get a lot louder at around 7000 rpms. Now it needs to be pinned for a few seconds and hit full rpm's berfore it gets the bark from the silencer (if that makes sence). I switched sleds with my brother and the difference in the power was day and night. It feels like I have half the power as his, until the sled is almost at full rpm and then it pulls extreemly hard. Then on the trail ride out it then started to hold its self at 5000 rpm's when i let off the gas until I tapped the brake.

I've noticed a few things that I'm not sure about. The throttle is about 3mm from the aluminum block at rest position. It seems like the cable might be stretched. I also noticed the y-pipe is now gray. I don't know it that is normal. I also thought I heard a little rattle from somewhere near the clutches when I unloaded it today.

I plan on taking it into the dealer this week. I'm just affraid that they will tell me everything is fine, because we have no snow here to test it and it hasn't set off any codes. I don't know how they replicate the problem. I'm hoping maybe someone else has had simular issues so I can ask my dealer to check out certain things. I know some about sleds, but I'm no expert. I plan on putting the stock silencer on when I take it to them so they dont automaticaly blame that. Even though it could be the issue.

Thanks for the help
 

maxwell

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take it for a spin with the stock can. im on my third brand of can now and it still wont run as good as with the stock can. also check your belt deflection that can cause it to be very laggy on the bottom and top end if its set incorrectly
 

jumpingjack

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Almost sounds like your power valves are not working properly. The louder sound that you hear when the tons are getting close to 7000 is when your power valve open. Make sure to mention this to your dealer. Could just be a sticky solenoid valve.
 

Hefe04

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Is there also vacuum lines on the power valves? Maybe one has come off.

Almost sounds like your power valves are not working properly. The louder sound that you hear when the tons are getting close to 7000 is when your power valve open. Make sure to mention this to your dealer. Could just be a sticky solenoid valve.
 

JTT800

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Thanks for the replies so far.

I believe my belt deflection is set good. I have it set so the track just creeps forward with the track in the air. Is that good?

My brother thinks it's the power valves too. He had an issue with his on his 2010, except they stuck open.

If the dealer says everything is fine, I think I'll put the stock silencer on for the next ride. Just seems weird that with the carbon fiber one it worked so good for the first few rides. But I'm hoping they find something, because it's almost not rideable right now. It seemed to be getting progressively worse as the day went on.

Also, is it normal for the etechs to smoke a little? It seemed to make a black spot in the snow when it started and I could see smoke. I didn't notice any when i was driving.
 

modmanmike

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the exact same thing happened to my buddy a few weeks ago. it was a stuck valve. it got worse and worse to the point it wasnt hardly opening at all. exact same story as yours.
 

takethebounce

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If the exhaust valve was stuck open, you would have no bottom end. If it was stuck close you would have no top end. If it was just sticky changing the clicker likely wouldn't yield the change in rpm.

How many miles are on this sled? If you haven't ran a 100 litres of fuel through it yet you are still in break in and are going to get a few gremlins the first few hundred miles. The extra exhaust smoke is the extra oil during break in.

Maxwell is correct in saying the stock exhaust works the best. I actually miss having the stocker on there now. I would try the stock exhaust to see if the carbon can is an issue. Plus those carbon cans are stupid loud after you break them in and what little packing there is in them is soaked in exhaust oil.

Yes the sled will get louder over 7000 rpm, likely a little closer to 7200-7300 as the rave's are opening up.

The 1-2 second lag in getting to top rpm's is the helix. The 40 degree takes forever when you punch it as its a very shallow angle.



Sounds like you have a sled that isn't through break in, probably under 250-300 miles on it?, possibly isn't agreeing with the carbon can and could use a helix change for your response. Nothing major.
 
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JTT800

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The sled has just over 500km now. I don't know if it's burned 100l but it's probably close to that. I'm gonna ask the dealer to check the power valves and clutches out. I'm leaning towards the valves not working correctly, but again I'm no expert. I really don't want to change any clutching on the sled because for the first 4 trips it was awesome. The hesitation was very minor and getting better. The last trip the sled felt like a 600 until it was wide open for a bit.
I should have it at the dealer by Friday and hopefully have some answers by early next week.

Again, thanks for all the help.
 

Teth-Air

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It sounds like a sticky clutch component to me. When I had my helix dialed out too far (shockwave) on a climb I was building speed and suddenly the rpms dipped and the motor sounded funny in the exhaust. It simply shifted out too much and couldn't recover. After dialing in the helix, it was normal again. You said you just pulled off the trail so maybe the secondary had just been opened wide and did not close properly?? broken secondary spring maybe. If this sled has low kms it may just be the break in mode messing with you too. Id ought it was fade from overheating but if you were really working it, this should also be eliminated. I just opicked my 2011 up as it was losing performance and seemed fat before blowing a code due to the exhaust temp sensor. I doubt that the 12 should have the same problem so soon.
 

takethebounce

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It sounds like a sticky clutch component to me. When I had my helix dialed out too far (shockwave) on a climb I was building speed and suddenly the rpms dipped and the motor sounded funny in the exhaust. It simply shifted out too much and couldn't recover. After dialing in the helix, it was normal again. You said you just pulled off the trail so maybe the secondary had just been opened wide and did not close properly?? broken secondary spring maybe. If this sled has low kms it may just be the break in mode messing with you too. Id ought it was fade from overheating but if you were really working it, this should also be eliminated. I just opicked my 2011 up as it was losing performance and seemed fat before blowing a code due to the exhaust temp sensor. I doubt that the 12 should have the same problem so soon.

for future reference - anytime you tell a girl she seems fat there will be a lack of performance...
 

senorjeem

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Do yourself a favor, before you take it in, put your stock can on and try it. If the CF can was delaminating inside so that you had an unacceptable amount of back-pressure on your exhaust, and you have fried something, you will likely have no warranty as well.
 

Caper11

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If its not the can an still does it. Put a new secondary spring in it. I've heard the complaint alot on the 2012 etecs I talked to a reliable source the he had to go up in clickers alot throughout the day and removed the sec spring and checked it and it was sacked out already.
 

Caper11

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take it for a spin with the stock can. im on my third brand of can now and it still wont run as good as with the stock can. also check your belt deflection that can cause it to be very laggy on the bottom and top end if its set incorrectly
Which cans have you tried? It's no secret that aftermarket cans on a etec do not run as good as the stock can, if I bought a 2012 I would of been cautious in buying a can or exhaust since those products were developed on a 2011 engine.
 
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maxwell

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Which cans have you tried? It's no secret that aftermarket cans on a etec do not run as good as the stock can, if I bought a 2012 I would of been cautious in buying a can or exhaust since those products were developed on a 2011 engine.

the only one that worked as good and possibly even better was the hps. i dont really want to mention names....ya know....
 

takethebounce

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Which cans have you tried? It's no secret that aftermarket cans on a etec do not run as good as the stock can, if I bought a 2012 I would of been cautious in buying a can or exhaust since those products were developed on a 2011 engine.

SLP qualified their set up in the 2012's. They had a disclaimer at the begging of the season that they were not recommending their set up for the '12. Now they have tested it and have dyno'd it.

The full system works well. You can actually feel it in the thumb dyno.
 

JTT800

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I finally got an response from my dealer today. They took it for a ride and then adjusted the clickers back to one. They said haven't seen a 2012 above clicker 2 yet. They told me that should fix the problem. I said bs and asked to speak to the mechanic. After talking to him he said he would look it over again. I explained everything to him directly this time. I also asked him to check the rave valves.
Does anyone know if the valves are not working correctly if it would cause it to idle higher? When I dropped it off at the dealer I was letting it warm up while I put my ramps away and it started to climb in revs. It got up to 2800rpm so I ran over to it before it took off across the yard. I've read on here and now on dootalk that a few rave valves have failed on the 2012 etechs. The one mechanic said my sled definitely sounds different so hopefully that's the issue and should be an easy fix.
 
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