2010 Sno Pro M8

Kurt505

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Hi guys/gals, I've been a member for a while, first post tho, I need some advice.

I just recently acquired a couple 2010 Sno Pro M8's after having a 2007 crossfire 1000. First impressions of these machines are great, absolutely love how they handle and the grunt they have. The only mod to either machine is SLP pipes. I've just read up a bit on the DD issues these machines have, and as a prior owner of the crossfire I am aware of the importance of regular oil changes in the DD, so the first thing I asked was if they have had regular oil changes. Answer I got was they were serviced at the shop and never had a problem with it. No big deal because I was going to change the oil regardless.

I've got a couple questions. First question is, is there anything I should be watching for with this year and model? Is there any mods I should look at doing to these machines? And lastly, one of them could use a new hood, where can I get a hold of one?

while I'm asking questions I might as well ask one more. Being that I have never tried a 2012 and up chassis, are they much better than the 2010/2011 machines?


Thanks in advance!
 

moyiesledhead

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Hi guys/gals, I just recently acquired a couple 2010 Sno Pro M8's after having a 2007 crossfire 1000. First impressions of these machines are great, absolutely love how they handle and the grunt they have. The only mod to either machine is SLP pipes. I've just read up a bit on the DD issues these machines have, and as a prior owner of the crossfire I am aware of the importance of regular oil changes in the DD, so the first thing I asked was if they have had regular oil changes. Answer I got was they were serviced at the shop and never had a problem with it. No big deal because I was going to change the oil regardless.

I've got a couple questions. First question is, is there anything I should be watching for with this year and model? Is there any mods I should look at doing to these machines? And lastly, one of them could use a new hood, where can I get a hold of one?

while I'm asking questions I might as well ask one more. Being that I have never tried a 2012 and up chassis, are they much better than the 2010/2011 machines?


Thanks in advance!

You should replace the DD transfer gear bearing with a double row 3203 thrust bearing. I bought 2 2010's last spring, both with under 1000kms. First one I took apart the bearing was about to self destruct. Second one was OK. Updated them both. AC really dropped the ball here.

Venting. Gotta get some air in there, and hot air out.

I'm not real happy with the 2.25 Powerclaw track either. I've got a 2.5 camo going on mine shortly. If it's a big improvement I'll probably do the wife's sled too.

Coming off my modded M1000 and a supercharged Nytro I sure miss the power....but it is what it is. Not a fair comparison.

As far as chassis go, I tried a couple of 2012's before I bought the 2010's. Didn't care for the new chassis at all, so I stuck with what I knew. Apparantly the '13/'14 is better, but they've deleted the rear heat exchanger and I've heard of overheat issues. In my opinion it's hard to beat the original M chassis. My son's new XM does it though....that thing is sweeeeeeeet!
 

Kurt505

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You should replace the DD transfer gear bearing with a double row 3203 thrust bearing. I bought 2 2010's last spring, both with under 1000kms. First one I took apart the bearing was about to self destruct. Second one was OK. Updated them both. AC really dropped the ball here.

Venting. Gotta get some air in there, and hot air out.

I'm not real happy with the 2.25 Powerclaw track either. I've got a 2.5 camo going on mine shortly. If it's a big improvement I'll probably do the wife's sled too.

Coming off my modded M1000 and a supercharged Nytro I sure miss the power....but it is what it is. Not a fair comparison.

As far as chassis go, I tried a couple of 2012's before I bought the 2010's. Didn't care for the new chassis at all, so I stuck with what I knew. Apparantly the '13/'14 is better, but they've deleted the rear heat exchanger and I've heard of overheat issues. In my opinion it's hard to beat the original M chassis. My son's new XM does it though....that thing is sweeeeeeeet!


Is is replacing the bearing a big job?
 

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Great sled I have a 2011 had to do reeds this year and went to M1000 type I've been told they last longer and they run great in mine.
 

Kurt505

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Great sled I have a 2011 had to do reeds this year and went to M1000 type I've been told they last longer and they run great in mine.

When I had a 2007 crossfire 1000 and an RMK 600 with the IQ chassis I preferred to ride the RMK. I sold the crossfire and bought the M8. A week after my first ride on the M8 my RMK was sold and I bought another M8! It reminds me of riding a jet ski only in the snow. So much easier to throw around than my crossfire and way more jamb than my polaris. I'm really impressed with these machines.

I still ill need to find a hood tho.
 

Modman

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Is is replacing the bearing a big job?

You just need to machine the shaft shoulder down, not a big job just a PITA kinda. AC also makes a thinner spacer that fixed the issue, I linked all the part numbers in the DD thread in this section, you'll just have to find it.
 

sled_wrangler

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Great sled I have a 2011 had to do reeds this year and went to M1000 type I've been told they last longer and they run great in mine.

What's the difference with the 1000 reeds to stock ... are they just stiffer ... I have Boysen with the rage cage in my 2010 m8 right now and think they need to be replaced ... just wondering why the 1000 reeds ??

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

moyiesledhead

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https://www.snowandmud.com/arctic-c...-drive-bearing-upgrade-thread-lots-47974.html

I need to do to my new 11-M8.... gonna take my chances for the rest of this year (only has 660 miles now) but in the spring I'm doing this upgrade....

I wouldn't take the chance....unless it's still under warranty I guess. Of the 2 I bought last spring, both with around 800 miles on them, one was OK and the other one was within one ride from destroying itself....and the Diamond drive with it. It's not a big job. Neither of my 2010's needed the shaft machined, though I know some of them do.
 

catinthehat

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My 2011 had 4petal reeds and the 1000 are just 2petal so I've been told they last longer that's about it. Mine also had the bottom end bog that the M8's have and it seemed to help out this problem as well. I did not notice anything in performance for the worse or better.
 

tmo1620

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I have a 2011 m8, bought it new and for the first 2 and a half seasons it was almost completely worry free, only thing that went was the hand and thumb warmers.Then half way through last year the exhaust sensor quit. Then at the end of last year my oil tank warped to the point the cap wont go on proper at all. Then this year my exhaust for some reason rattled all apart, all the mounts are loose, the springs are all shot and the heat shield and insulation are f*cked. Arctic cat stepped up and warrantied all that as I have the 4 year bumper to bumper warranty. I booked it in to get the warranty stuff done and the day I was supposed to bring it in we went for a ride in the morning and my primary decided it was gonna completely s*it the bed. So now Im waiting to hear if they will warranty the primary, Im guessing they will. That 4 year is really paying for itself now. Ive changed the DD oil every year and mechanically take pretty good care of it, ride it hard but who doesn't.......lol. Motor seems real strong still, 2500ish miles, and I love riding the sled, but lately Ive had my fair share of problems, never been towed back to the truck though, not once, however it has towed at least a half dozen different sleds home, some more than once........ :)
 
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