163 X 3" CE vs 174 X 2.5" CE - Opinions

High Velocity

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I posted this late last season, but didn't get the feedback I was looking for. Has anyone had an opportunity to compare these tracks on the same brand/model of sled ? I'm thinking of doing a track change on my Pro, and it would be much cheaper to go with the 174 X 2.5" as it does not need a drop and roll. Will the extra track length offset the 1/2" less lug height ?
 

fredw

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from the testing we did with this, the 3 inch 154 is probally more traction than a 174 by 2.5, let alone the 163, but also keep in mind that the three inch takes some serious power to turn it to get its true potenial

we we had the stock etec on a 163 three inch, it ran strong, but it was lacking in track speed, and fun factor drops
 

maxwell

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ya never noticed much if any difference in the 174x2.5 and the 163 x 2.5 on identical sleds. the 3" 163 far outshines the 174 2.5 in my findings. but its also a bit much to handle with the stock skid as the extra traction likes to wheelie. the 174 deffinetly controls that.
 

Longhairfreak

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A friend is building a 350 hp turbo and if they made a 174x2 thats what he would put on there.
 

1100

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I've ran a 860 rev with 2.5 and 162, and an 1100 rt with a 162" 3" and the 3" hooks a lot harder, only down fall is its harder on sliders, and you notice more vibration then the 2.5, where the 2.5 has trail manners like a stock track.
 

1100

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Why not buy a 2.5 and cut it down to a 2 inch
 

Jeff K

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you don't need a drop and roll to do a 3" track on a pro, you just need to modify your chain case so you can run 7 tooth drivers.
 

koby

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to me it seems without a drop&roll the 3" would rob allot of HP trying to compress air and snow thru the tight clearance at the driver. nothing that 24 psi into the throttle bodies wouldn't cure though
 

Bnorth

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I've ran a 860 rev with 2.5 and 162, and an 1100 rt with a 162" 3" and the 3" hooks a lot harder, only down fall is its harder on sliders, and you notice more vibration then the 2.5, where the 2.5 has trail manners like a stock track.

I've heard lots of guys say the 3" rides rougher but I don't notice a difference between it and my buddies 2.5" both 3" pitch tracks.
 

+SLEDWRECKS+

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you don't need a drop and roll to do a 3" track on a pro, you just need to modify your chain case so you can run 7 tooth drivers.

Don't need to modify the belt drive (chain case) to run 7 tooth 3" pitch drivers either. Avid has drivers with the extroverts offset to the outside...

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thegeneral

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to me it seems without a drop&roll the 3" would rob allot of HP trying to compress air and snow thru the tight clearance at the driver. nothing that 24 psi into the throttle bodies wouldn't cure though

Heard this lots a couple of years ago too. I believe the term then was "snowdraulic"
is there not a huge void ( approx 3" deep ) between the paddles to accomodate said snow/air?
 

koby

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Heard this lots a couple of years ago too. I believe the term then was "snowdraulic"
is there not a huge void ( approx 3" deep ) between the paddles to accomodate said snow/air?

there's a void in a turbine pump as well, the variable is the clearance between the impellor and the bowl.
this is obviously not an air tight area but it's gotta have a draw.
 

oler1234

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to me it seems without a drop&roll the 3" would rob allot of HP trying to compress air and snow thru the tight clearance at the driver. nothing that 24 psi into the throttle bodies wouldn't cure though

False statement.... my 08 mayby has 60-80 thou clearence.... no issues yet.
 

CUSO

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I think if there was a problem with snow packing in there, you would see lots of problems with the lower hp machines even turning tracks.

Think of it this way, it's probably 10% snow to air. mostly from kick up. There is a gap on the sides, room for snow and air to release through the windows, room for the snow to compresss between the paddles, MINIMAL.
 

koby

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crap, i should a got the 174 X 3. went with the 2 1/2 based on this theory
 
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