06 660 Grizzly front diff problems.

[Major]

Has anyone ever had to rebuild their front diff. My 4x4 indicator light still stays on regardless od what mode I am in 2x4 or 4x4. Dealer said it is just a sensor no big deal. I decided to ride it till it fails. I was out last weekend and when in diff lock mode it acts as if it is still in 4x4, not all wheels spin(not locked up) it does make a clicking sound once in a while. Maybe there is more than a sensor piled up. I may take it out and find new guts for it. Or are there after market diff kits available.

 

[medler]

i wonder if a used diff is available?

 

[medler]

I put a call into Chris from Red Deer to see if he has got something .Either gears or a camplete diff

 

[Major]

Sounds good let me know when you hear back. I need to get this figured before May long

 

[medler]

he should call back soon,i think he is riding today simpson

 

[medler]

Sounds good let me know when you hear back. I need to get this figured before May long

how much are gears?

 

[munhoez]

electronic actuator motor?

 

[Major]

well I pulled the front diff out today. Seems that the shift fork that is actuated by the actuator motor is bent a litte and has weakend. I staightened it and put it back together and the indicator light went out and all seemed fine for a few tests. Then the light stayed on again in 2wd. It must not be strong enough to engage the lock all the way either. looks like the diff gears are worn a bit on the inside may or maynot have to replace those as well. I think she is getting expensive.

 

[smokin black]

Sounds like the same problem that the 700's have, Bent shift forks on a few that I know of also the posi lock gear on the carrier are wearing down, After tearing a few down and straightening the forks I took a closer look at the engaging system on the gears to see if a master spline is present, On the 700 models there is no master spline to speak of but the splines don't go in every time something like 3 - 5 ratio, I'll try to explain that better, If you get the splines to engage take the gears apart & rotate 1 spline, insert again, rotate a spline, then for the next 5 splines the gears will not engage, then the spline matching repeats itself, So in a nut shell the posi gears don't mesh immediately causing the wear on the splines if your hard into it after engaement, POSI LOCK IT BEFORE YOU HIT THAT HOLE, $800 bucks for a replacement carrier

 

[Major]

That is just what is happening. When I pulled mine apart the splines will drop into place only every few moves. I wonder why this happens. Yamaha should fix this for free, or have a recall done as this is not an isolated issue talking to a buddy at red deer yamaha. I took the whole diff into Yamaha and they are going to try and get a look at it so I can have it back before May long.
I only ever lock up when stopped( sometimes in a mud hole already stuck) so I still dont get why it would pile up like that.
Thanks for the input
Cheers

 

[smokin black]

That is just what is happening. When I pulled mine apart the splines will drop into place only every few moves. I wonder why this happens. Yamaha should fix this for free, or have a recall done as this is not an isolated issue talking to a buddy at red deer Yamaha. I took the whole diff into Yamaha and they are going to try and get a look at it so I can have it back before May long.
I only ever lock up when stopped( sometimes in a mud hole already stuck) so I still don't get why it would pile up like that.
Thanks for the input
Cheers

This is the way Yamaha manufactured it its not a failure, But it does actually act like a master spline, So if your stuck in the mud and engage your posi don't be so sure it actually is locked in, Be gentle with it thats why their wearing the splines down, The splines WILL not engage once the tires are spinning all it does is chew up the splines, LOCK UP IN POSI BEFORE YOU HIT THAT BAD MUD HOLE TO HELP PREVENT A $800 dollar bill,
Or just feather the throttle till the posi engages if your already stuck, it wouldn't hurt to forward /Rev it just to give it some free play to engage

Oh buy the way The shifting fork pin is peened into the case so if you want to replace the fork you'll need to replace the whole left side of the diff case, from what I've been told Yammie doesn't sell just the fork,
It's the Fork & left half of the diff case they supply, What a money grab,

However I took mine out with a pair of Vise grips, Grabbed the pin and gently tapped it out, Try not to scare the pin, once you have the fork straight re-assemble using Red Lock tight (permanent) on the case/pin assembly, then I peened the case back over the pin as a double safety,
Hope that will help you save some bucks

 

[Major]

I had teh pin out, it came out easy I grabbed it with a shop towel for grip and worked it back and forth and out it came. The bent fork was straightened and all reassembled. I tried it a few times and it bent again. I dont think the splines are meshing true enough since i wore them down. so it must be jamming up and bending the fork. I already sent er to Yammy and am waiting for the good word. I will for sure be more careful in the mud.
Thanks for all the good info.

 

[smokin black]

Has anyone ever had to rebuild their front diff. My 4x4 indicator light still stays on regardless od what mode I am in 2x4 or 4x4. Dealer said it is just a sensor no big deal. I decided to ride it till it fails. I was out last weekend and when in diff lock mode it acts as if it is still in 4x4, not all wheels spin(not locked up) it does make a clicking sound once in a while. Maybe there is more than a sensor piled up. I may take it out and find new guts for it. Or are there after market diff kits available.

I can't help you on the after market stuff, The clicking you here is the posi trying to lock up ( splines are trying to match up but you must be spinning a little ) You'll hear this noise just as your tires are about to stop from spinning or if your applying throttle from a stop and the posi isn't locked up you'll hear it,
That's what wears out the splines