05 900 fusion top end rebuild.

[Big Bill]

Not familiar with crome cyls. Have low comp on 1 side, pulled head. 1 piston has a nitch starting facing x port. Walls are fine. Seems like rings are sticky. Other side with 125 psi, has some small scratches in the bore down low. Will put in new piston & rings on bad side.
Question 1, Do I just replace rings on other side?
Question 2, How much can I hone these crome cyls? there is no flaking, about 3000 miles on eng.
Question 3, Belt seems to drag. Bolt on 2ndry clutch was loose and backed out. Hard to get into reverse if at all. Whats the best way to adjust bolt?

 

[Danbot]

Not familiar with crome cyls. Have low comp on 1 side, pulled head. 1 piston has a nitch starting facing x port. Walls are fine. Seems like rings are sticky. Other side with 125 psi, has some small scratches in the bore down low. Will put in new piston & rings on bad side.
Question 1, Do I just replace rings on other side?
Question 2, How much can I hone these crome cyls? there is no flaking, about 3000 miles on eng.
Question 3, Belt seems to drag. Bolt on 2ndry clutch was loose and backed out. Hard to get into reverse if at all. Whats the best way to adjust bolt?

1- I always replace both pistons as a set.

2- only to re-establish cross-hatch. If you can feel the marks in the cylinder wall with your fingernail it is beyond honing on a plated cylinder. Post pics for better advice.

3- What bolt are you speaking of? If you are referring to the belt deflection adjusting bolt (allen key driven set screw type with a lock nut) then, yes this is how you adjust your belt deflection. If it is set incorrectly the belt can drag.

Sounds like you could use a service manual for your sled. Is it an 05, or an 06?

 

[Big Bill]

1- I always replace both pistons as a set.

2- only to re-establish cross-hatch. If you can feel the marks in the cylinder wall with your fingernail it is beyond honing on a plated cylinder. Post pics for better advice.

3- What bolt are you speaking of? If you are referring to the belt deflection adjusting bolt (allen key driven set screw type with a lock nut) then, yes this is how you adjust your belt deflection. If it is set incorrectly the belt can drag.

Sounds like you could use a service manual for your sled. Is it an 05, or an 06?

A manual would be nice. Not my machine. I do alot of work on older sleds. Just trying to cheap out for buddie that paid to much for a piece of crap sled. This thing has never been serviced. From the looks of it its got alot of re-calls.
So, is the only option a new cyl.?

 

[Danbot]

A manual would be nice. Not my machine. I do alot of work on older sleds. Just trying to cheap out for buddie that paid to much for a piece of crap sled. This thing has never been serviced. From the looks of it its got alot of re-calls.
So, is the only option a new cyl.?

Nope
Used cyl off eBay (another gamble)
have the cylinder re-plated

These Liberty 866 and 755 big block engines aren't without their troubles, but with patience, some hard work, and some aftermarket fixes they can turn out to be a reliable bargain because they typically sell for so cheap. The torque they make is addicting and that is why there are so many guys like me that continue to run them. It really doesn't pay to cheap out with these motors.

 

[Danbot]

I assume your working on a 2005 900since you didn't complain about having to pull the engine to get the cylinders off.
Here's a download link for the 2005 service manual

 

[Wingwalker]

A manual would be nice. Not my machine. I do alot of work on older sleds. Just trying to cheap out for buddie that paid to much for a piece of crap sled. This thing has never been serviced. From the looks of it its got alot of re-calls.
So, is the only option a new cyl.?

If its a Fusion not a rmk I have a manual for it 2005 performance manual if you know of a way to send 50mb files I can send it to you

 

[Danbot]

Sendspace.com is a great way to send large files

 

[Big Bill]

Hey Dan
Want to thank you for the info and give you an update.
When we pulled the cyls. we discovered that both pistons were ready to explode. Caught it just in time! Local shop had lots of replated cyls in stock!
So we got 2 new cyls, 2 new pistons in.
Have trouble with idle. Runs ok at idle but soon as you burp it it sticks on high idle and wont come down? Lowered idle screw till it just runs and took it out for a spin. Stalled it when turning around and cant get r started again???
Got spark & fuel. WTF
Any Ideas? Thanks for the manuel. I'm guessing TPS, I dont gave the stuff to check it.
Thanks again!
Big Bill

 

[Danbot]

Hey Dan
Want to thank you for the info and give you an update.
When we pulled the cyls. we discovered that both pistons were ready to explode. Caught it just in time! Local shop had lots of replated cyls in stock!
So we got 2 new cyls, 2 new pistons in.
Have trouble with idle. Runs ok at idle but soon as you burp it it sticks on high idle and wont come down? Lowered idle screw till it just runs and took it out for a spin. Stalled it when turning around and cant get r started again???
Got spark & fuel. WTF
Any Ideas? Thanks for the manuel. I'm guessing TPS, I dont gave the stuff to check it.
Thanks again!
Big Bill

Yeah setting the TPS would be a good starting point, although I'm not sure about it not wanting to start. Set the TPS to spec and see what you have at that point. Then we can re-evaluate and see if there is another problem to hunt.
Glad to hear you got the top end built!

 

[Danbot]

Borrowed this from another forum:
How to build a TPS setting tool

+5V to "Vc"
-5V to "E2" and to the (-) into your digital voltmeter
"Vta" is the output to the (+) on your voltmeter

The rest of the instructions for setting the TPS are in the service manual.
It is important that you get a 5v regulator that is accurate. When I built my tool, I bought 6 regulators and only 2 of them had an output of 5.00v.
The supplies are all available and most electronics stores, and of course you can buy a ready-to-go tool from Polaris, but it's so cheap to build if you can solder and use a multi-meter.

Feel free to ask if something is not clear or you need more help.

 

[overkill131313]

I built a few of the TPS setting tools.......but now I dont have a 900 lol.......I will sell you mine if you need one! you need one to set the TPS.....you CANT just turn up or down the idle.....it screws everything up!

 

[snowblinded]

Hey Dan
Want to thank you for the info and give you an update.
When we pulled the cyls. we discovered that both pistons were ready to explode. Caught it just in time! Local shop had lots of replated cyls in stock!
So we got 2 new cyls, 2 new pistons in.
Have trouble with idle. Runs ok at idle but soon as you burp it it sticks on high idle and wont come down? Lowered idle screw till it just runs and took it out for a spin. Stalled it when turning around and cant get r started again???
Got spark & fuel. WTF
Any Ideas? Thanks for the manuel. I'm guessing TPS, I dont gave the stuff to check it.
Thanks again!
Big Bill

I just rebuilt my 05 fusion 900 and am having the same exact problem. Did setting the tps solve the problem or was it caused by something else? Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

[hdkawi]

best place to start is set the tps then go from there

 

[snowblinded]

best place to start is set the tps then go from there

thanks you were right, that worked. the sled now starts and runs fine for about ten minutes or so, then once the temp hits around 140 it sarts stumbing and progressively gets worse until it finally shuts off. I went through each sensor one by one and unplugged each to see if there was any effect, it never got better only slightly worse. gonna go through and check each sensor for proper operation at some point but if anyone has any advice that would be great.

 

[hdkawi]

i think 130 is the normal temp could be starting to over heat going to take mine for it's first first run after a rebuild

 

[rmk mod]

thanks you were right, that worked. the sled now starts and runs fine for about ten minutes or so, then once the temp hits around 140 it sarts stumbing and progressively gets worse until it finally shuts off. I went through each sensor one by one and unplugged each to see if there was any effect, it never got better only slightly worse. gonna go through and check each sensor for proper operation at some point but if anyone has any advice that would be great.


Did you blead your coolant properly? Sounds like you are are starting to over heat and go into limp mode. Fell your running boards, if you are hot on one side and cool on the other you are air locked.

 

[snowblinded]

you guys are probably right, i did bleed the sled as per manual but there could still be air in the system. i will raise the front even higher and try again.

 

[hdkawi]

took mine for a test ride it ran great the temp ranged 130-150 not much snow if u are not air locked like rmk mod said check for air leaks (cracks) on the intake boots

 

[snowblinded]

yea double checked the cooling system no cold spots could not bleed anymore air out of the system. its staying around 130-140 but this is a temp gun reading off the cyl head because my gauges have a bad connector, i cant change the mode so i cant look at the temp reading. gonna fix the connector see all the readouts and go from there. it is runing ok on cold startup but once it warms up if i give it any gas it doesnt completely return to idle it stays around 3000 and eventually dies out
thanks for all the advice

 

[hdkawi]

ya take all your connectors apart and grease with die electric. sounds like a power problem have you tryed snowwest forms