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#1 isn't anywhere near the sled as #2 or #3. #2 will be hard to beat, except that you could buy 2 #1s and it weighs way more than either. #3 will be the best in off trail hilly terain. #1 Will be the best in tight trees where manueverability is paramount. #2 Will require a winch in single...

As the title says I am looking for feedback on Stealth trailers! I am thinking of ordering a 27' (22'+5'V-nose). They have a 5 year warranty which apeals to me, just theres not a whole lot of them around and would like input from those that do have them. Thanks in advance!

If you flip the exhaust solenoid it gives you alot more clearance, also lose the coolant overflow hose it will melt. They love to run at 8450, but on the flat target 8300 or so since they build rpm as the pipes heat under load. What clutching did you use? What race/pump mix? Get it running spot...

Most likely need to tighten your throttle cable pre-load, there should only be about a 1/16-1/8" freeplay at the lever, make sure that the bars can turn lock to lock without revving up the sled, if it does just back off the adjuster a little. Adjuster is about 8" down from the lever and is...

Good luck on finding a used motor! Might be interested in buying your sled if you decide not to fix it. Might find something in ontario or south of the border.

Kind of like hammering it into a ditch repeatedly, your suspension can't absorb the jolts once it's at a sharp angle, just look at it next time you have it in there. Weakens the welds.

$2000?

By chance do you have your sled in the back of a pickup with the tailgate up, that likes to wreck a-arms. I ripped mine at the welds on my assault after lightly touching a rock, it sucked bad, so weak, never even hurt the shock or tie-rod.

Direct stock replacement or performance aftermarket?

Sensor in airbox known as a TBAP (temperature,barometric and atmospheric pressure), ECU uses the signal 1-5v and adjusts accordingly, also its apparent it's not as linear on opperation as it should be being that there is a known point where the whole curve shifts significantly once it gets a...

Primary spring would be a good place to start, exhaust valve cleaning second.

I would at a minimum check the cylinders for out of round and check the head to make sure its not warped. FYI it has no gasket just o-rings so the head had to move at least a little for the o-ring to fail since it sits in a groove in the cylinder. It should have pushed coolant out the overflow...

Haven't got a big bore, I did carls cylinder and case porting, head cut and ecu tune, SLP twins and wow there is a lot to be gained on the stock cylinders. Reports from others are ported twin piper is slightly stronger than 860 single and 860 twin piper runs considerably stronger again. Nice...

Tighten the limiter for snowmobility, reduced trenching and increased control. Loosen the limiter for increased transfer. The Polaris design over transfers, ESP with the bent rail models.

Secondary is best left to someone with a press tool as the spring is a mofo to compress, or get a couple of large friends to help.

Front track shock laid down, limiter in the highest setting, shock settings soft all around. You want the suspension as a whole to pull up into the tunnel, tightening the limiter and laying the shock down alow the front to pull up into the chassis rather than plow through the snow.

100 PSI with 11.8 compression,fairly aggressive factory porting and decompression holes sounds okay to me, my sled here at 2000 with cut head for 50/50, heavy porting and decomp plugged had 125 ish with new pistons on perfect cylinder. Thats a gauge that reads bang on on many different motors...

If I were you I would look at 05 and up 600 RMKs and 07 and up 700s. The 06 is heavy and requires alot of keeping on top of things due to a poor design. At 6500 you should be able to find many options.

Thanks Mike, Steve C-Brook Performance

SLP says they are close with the single pipe. What are you looking for. I hear you have a new track!