Sled deck mounting

[Polar Express]

Sled deck mounting


3 years ago, I built a sled deck. We had a 2004 GMC at the time, and it was cheaper for me to build one than buy it. I also had specific features I wanted, and this way I got them:

The deck is high enough to fit fuel jugs underneath, (just barely). Also, the main frame rails are c-channel, with the openings towards the center. The ramp is stored in the channel. The ramp actually contacts the tailgate when the 'gate is up. This leaves me a lot of open cargo space.

I wanted a wooden deck. Yes, aluminum would be more durable, but much more $$, and the wood is easy and cheap enough to replace. I figure I’m happy if I get 2 seasons out of the deck, and so far, I’m on 3 light-use years. I’m OK with that.

I also wanted railings, not just a sheet edge. I wanted them high enough that if the deck got snowed on while riding, I could kick the snow off the sides, and still have the rails functional to keep the sled on top as I load.

I designed 4 chains/turnbuckels that came diagonally (the front ones came forward, outward, and downward from the deck to the mounting point, and the rears can back, out and down. This way the force vectors want to keep the deck centered, and held down on the bed.

I used large turnbuckles, both for strength, and ease of use. But, I rigged up a smaller chain with quick links that was able to connect to the OE tie down 'rings'. The smaller chain and quick links still exceeded the capacity of the large turnbuckles, so I wasn't reducing strength.

Here are some pics of the deck in the GMC.
This first one shows the left front corner, from the outside. You can see how I attached the chain to the main structural member.

This second one shows the left rear from the inside. The OE 'hoop' is hidden by the rear leg, but you can see the chain/turnbuckle setup.

The third is the left front from inside. If you zoom in, you can get an idea of the setup.

The factory cargo hooks on either my 04 GMC or my 06 Ram are not what I would consider ideal for this kind of force. While the GMC hoops did hold up far better than the plastic cleats the dodge comes with, they still bent from the forces.


To be continued.....
PE

 

[Polar Express]

... continued from above.

After we bought the Dodge Ram, I modified the deck to fit that box. And, with the plastic OE tie cleats, there was no way I was going to ask them to hold the tie down forces I needed, so I chose to make my own tie eyes. I took a large eye, and welded it closed, then, a nut all the way up, a large washer, through a drilled hole in the floor of the bed (found a location near the perpendicular supports in the sheet metal) and a large aluminum plate, another steel washer and a nylock. I ran this setup down nice and tight. The aluminum plates are about 3"x5" and 1/4" thick. I put body seam sealer under the plates before tightening, to help prevent any 'oblonging' of the holes, as there is a significant side load. So far, it has worked great.
The underside:

the topside:

This is the right rear leg of the deck, you can see how I triangulated the leg. The truck rides and sits kinda high, so loading is a violent process, and with the short box truck, the majority of the weight is carried on the back legs. The triangulation adds lots of strength. If you look closely, you can see the turnbuckle and chain behind the leg.

With the way I have my deck chained to those eyes, I can take the deck off by myself in 10 min. I have some straps hanging from the roof of my carport, and just use them to lift it off.

If you have any questions, feel free to post for everyone, or send me a PM.

PE

 

[teamgreen]

it was cheaper for me to build one than buy it.

What was the total cost to build? any pics of the final product?

 

[Polar Express]

the total cost, buying aluminum stock from Everett Steel, in Everett WA, in Feb 2007 was right about $1300 USD. That included the cost of the led running lights, the cargo lamps, wire, hardware, plywood, welding wire and gas, everything.

Metal costs have changed since then. I think I had a ~$1000 in the metal alone, with another ~$2-300 in other supplies.

I already owned a proper welder, and borrowed a spool gun from a friend for the project. I have since bought the spool gun from him.

Here are pics of the deck in back of the '04 GMC, with a 6" lift and 35" tires. the ramp is right at 8' long, and the truck is a short-bed. I don't have any pics of the deck on the Ram as of this moment.
Side view of ramp on back of deck

iso view of ramp, deck and truck

Pics of ramp from loader's perspective

Center of beavertail lifts up, and ramp stows between frame rails

LED lights are used for side markers, stop and turn, and rear center-strip

side view of beaver tail

cargo lights up top, waterproof switch is under deck, on frame on drivers side

Hope this helps,
PE

 

[growly]

I'm surprised you haven't put a ski through your back window yet.The GM cargo hooks are stronger than the light chain and the 2.99 carabiner your using. Looks good though.

 

[mb1]

I'm surprised you haven't put a ski through your back window yet.The GM cargo hooks are stronger than the light chain and the 2.99 carabiner your using. Looks good though.

X2 Deck looks good but that loop on the end of the buckle there will open up with very little force.

Think about it this way. Do you think you could break that buckle or the carabiner if you hooked your sled to it on a 30' piece of chain and gave it a yank? Probably. Now how would the force of your truck hitting another truck on the highway compare?

 

[Polar Express]

Fellas,
Thanks for your concern, I appreciate it.

That cross bar is at the right height to push the ski up, if it ever does get forced into the front railing. Yes, it would scratch the heck out of the top of the cab above the window, but it would clear and save the window. I designed it that way.

Those aren't 'beaners. I read the working specs on all the hardware components, and chose them accordingly, and carefully. They are substantially larger than the cargo loops on the GMC. Actually, those GM cargo loops bent from me tightening the deck, and those steel links hadn't bent yet, you could still open the gate.

That hardware is big enough that if I hook a 30' chain to my sled, it's gonna rip the sled apart. I suspect the photo is misleading. I bet that hardware is larger than you think from the picture.
PE

 

[kenvb]

nice looking deck
I remember back in 80s when one of the guys from Whitecourt built a deck, he fired up his pussy cat and proceeded to hit the ramp at a faster speed then needed. bounced over the cab ,down on hood and onto the ground....
maybe drinking while loading wasnt a good idea ?The cleated picked track left some good Impressions on his Boss the next day,,it was a company truck.

 

[Polar Express]

ha! yeah, I heard a couple similar stories around here too. I can see how it could be done, especially when loading on snow/ice; I do have to get enough running start to essentially coast far enough up the ramp so the track not touching the ground any more. After that, I can just gently bump the throttle to get them up on top, at that point, it's 100% positive traction.

PE

 

[littlehoe]

I just bought this deck used from a buddy, its got spots on the sides to anchor in on the outside to my current truck camper mounts so its nice and easy to tie down...