Risers: how high is too high?

[Toy4Fun]

So I decided to put risers on my 1997 Summit 670. My friend was really generous and gave me a set of 6-8" Rox adjustable risers and t bar mount. They are too wide for my stock bars and the clamps hit on the bends in the bar. I have a set of FLY aluminum mountain type bars with 3" rise in them. I am 6' tall and have long arms so when I stand up with those bars on the 6" riser setting it is really comfortable (9" of rise). If I sit down though, my hands are way up there . I"m looking at new bars but have no idea what setback to get or what bars will work best. RSI chromoly bars (for the $) are what I'm looking at with either 10 degree or 15 degree setback. What do you all recommend?
2nd question, how likely am I to bend the steering post with this much riser?

 

[powderhoundbrr]

I had very high handlebars on my Polaris of that vintage. I never really sat down so they worked well and the height never really bothered me. If my riding did entail siting down they would have sucked as they were about ear level. In terms of the leverage you are putting on the steering post I can tell you first hand that 97 steering post will not take the abuse and you will bend it if not break the bars off. On my Polaris I would say I broke the bars right off about 5 times and this was with major extra gussets and welding to beef it up. I even made a new post of of solid steel and it bent side to side (although never broke).

High handle bars are sweet and a must for mountain riding. You are just going to have to strengthen everything and get ready for a crappy ride / tow out when you break them off. Getting out without handlebars really does suck too.

 

[POWDERCHOWDER]

have 12" riser with fly bars on my rev, and love them, it is a little shitty riding when sitting down, but u get used to it.as for breaking them never have, but i did weld a base plate to my steering post, i dont have them supper tight so when it does roll with enough force they will fold down.

 

[powderhoundbrr]

The REV (which I currently ride) changed the game when it came to high handlebars as the sterring post was designed for up right mountain ridining. You will not find the same strength in a 97 that was not designed and engineered for the leverage you are going to create. Strengthen up the post and you will be a lot better off if you are going high.

 

[Toy4Fun]

So where does the steering post usually bend? Can I jam another tube down the center and weld it to reinforce it? What is the best fix? thanks

 

[SledMamma]

I went to the Rasmussen Riding Clinic last year. Before we even started, Bret had us all show our normal stance, and he evaluated our bar height. According to the best guy I've ever seen ride a sled (and I've seen some gooders...) Your feet should be planted firmly in the footwells, knees are slightly bent or
"soft" to absorb impact and your arms should make a "lazy L". By that, he means that your bars should not be so high that your forearms are headed uphill as they meet the handlebar grips, they should not be 90 degrees and conversely your arms should definitely not be straight or elbows locked. The lazy L position allows the greatest range of motion, better center of gravity, most control, and least arm fatigue. It also keeps your center of gravity in a better place for shifting weight during changing terrain.

I would say that 75% of our group had their bars too high. It took some getting used to, but once I adopted the lower bar height, it definitely helped with less tired arms at the end of the day, and my arms did not get near as tired on the trail at then end of the day when it was all "whooped" out.

Each to their own, but that is my two cents.

 

[Toy4Fun]

Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. I'm still fairly new to snowmachines, I grew up on dirt bikes and they have a different riding position. I'll probably need a new set of straight bars to get the Lazy L arm position.

 

[SledMamma]

Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. I'm still fairly new to snowmachines, I grew up on dirt bikes and they have a different riding position. I'll probably need a new set of straight bars to get the Lazy L arm position.

New to snow machines and you are from Alaska? I think that is an abuse or crime of some sort!!! I will tell you what... I will come to Alaska and show you some riding tips, and you show me ALASKA!! Dealio? (Fine Print: I don't promise to know any more about sleds than you do...)

 

[flabbajabba]

So where does the steering post usually bend? Can I jam another tube down the center and weld it to reinforce it? What is the best fix? thanks

I have a 97 Summit and I have a 6 inch riser and 2.5 in the bars. I would never go back I did break the steering post a while back did exactly what you said, Jammed a pipe down the post and welded it all back together never broke since! I don't know if I'd cut it or just wait till it breaks. Oh and wearing the teather is a good idea when ours flipped and broke the throttle cable got pulled and stuck WOT.

 

[powderhoundbrr]

So where does the steering post usually bend? Can I jam another tube down the center and weld it to reinforce it? What is the best fix? thanks

That is exactly what I would do. Get a piece of solid that is slightly smaller diameter than the tube and jam it down there. Weld it up and ride! I would bet that the post might still bend from side to side a bit but I doubt you will break them.

 

[Modman]

You will break the steering post right where the pivot mounts to the steering hoop, usually right around the plastic bushings that are in there. As others have said, shove some steel rod down there and weld it up. Don't worry about weight, use a good thick rod, or even solid, shove it all the way down to where the steering post makes the bend around the carbs, or at least make it long enough to go past the steering hoop pivot mount. If it does break, then you can still keep the upper part of the bars in the old post and tie some rope to the ends of the bars and across to the opposing ski tip (make a big "X" across the hood and go through the bumper). They actually steer pretty good like this, I rode through some tight trees and up out of a pretty decent drainage like this in heavy spring snow....This is experience talking, I broke 3 posts in two seasons........

Make sure that your steering hoop is solidly mounted, and watch the welds where the steering hoop mounts to the steering post, you will break those welds next. You can also have Wildchild make you up another post, his are twice as strong as the stockers. I tried the lazy L thing and I didn't care for it, the higher bars give you much more leverage, on that chassis you are riding.