POLARIS PRO RMK Camoplast Extreme Track install

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Started by pulling the brake caliper off placed it out of the way, Then pulled the Disc, pulled the oil drain plug on the gear case, after about 15min the oil was all drained. Unbolted the 5 bolts around the gear case cover.
Top (behind disc) there is a bushing that has to be pulled out, it has a grove about 1/8, pulled this with a pair of pliars, comes out quite easily. Then there is an O ring that has to be taken off the shaft while the cover is still on the case. The case cover can then be removed. A 1/4 brass bushing is next on the top removed it. Loosen the chain tensioner, Unbolted the bottom gear and slid the two together off both shafts at the same time. Placed on a clean peice of paper towel. Aranged the parts as they came out and of the gear case.

I then went to the Clutch side Picture 5, and unbolted the 6 nuts on that side. Pretty tight in there but if you are patient not problem. OK ready to start on the SKID.....
loosened off the locking nuts slightly and backed out the track tightening bolts all the way back but not out. Kept the locking nuts in the same postion for reference for installing the new camoplast track. Unbolted the 4 bolts holding the Skid under the sled. Dropped down, I then removed the skid with a bit of shaking and jacking around. Out she came. I then put a bungie cord around the sled to both sides of the track to help hold it out of the way so I could remove the Driver shaft. The shaft came out without too much effort, there is a hole in the clutch side large enough you can put the bearing keeper through it to drop down the shaft on the gear case side at this point it drops out quite easily. Watch the seal on the chain case side, it would be easy to rip or tear it while removing the shaft. Out came the track.

Picked up a new set of Drivers for the Shaft and pressed them on after removing the old of course. I have had problems with factory drivers on my old 2008, wet snow packed around the drive gears.

Put the new track under her and did every thing in reverse, but I did bolt in the shaft first with the track in place and then the Skid, tighted the track within a 1/2 inch of the old track.

Went to turn it over for a bit to make sure it was running trew and warm it up before the final adjustments on the track. BUT......

THe new drivers gear hit the front of the Skid, so upon investigation, you either have to cut the front plastic piece down or get an anti stab kit (Track Canada) that has shorter plastic piece for the front of the skid and four small boggie wheels that ride on the track. Ordered a set from Curt at Tracks Canada and they should be in in a few days. Curt is a great guy. I purcahsed my Track from him. I should have asked him what to expect or what was needed for the job. Any rate I am waiting on the Kit to finish the install.

Changed out the top gear from a 20T to a 19T, they (Gears) are the same as the older Dragons...

Added the Amsoil gear oil to the case with a rolled up peice of paper, crude but it worked well, FYI case holds about 350 - 400ml of Oil.

I wanted to post this incase any of you are considering installing a new track on your sleds along with new drivers.

Only one wound not bad, for me at least....

Sorry if I missed any thing.

Cant wait for the snow....
 

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skrat

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Had to do the same thing with my 08 700. I was hoping this was going to change with the PRO. I did the anti-stab and haven't looked back.
 

HotShotHarry

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I put the new center ported camo extreme on with the stock drivers. You guys are saying snow jams up the stock drivers? 2011 pro-rmk 163.
 
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I have had my Drivers pack up on the hill twice on me, I have been riding for 2 years. Feels like you are riding a wheel barrel down the hill when the drivers pack up, and it then skips on the drivers. Took me 45 minutes to figure out what was going on. The drivers were pack solid and had turned to hard pack snow. It only happens when the snow is stick in the mid day, but it is not a good feeling going down hill with the driver skipping. Took me another 30 minutes to chisel the snow out of the drivers. I have heard of people breaking a track because of this but not sure if there is any truth to that or not. I did not want to take the chance, had it all out for the extra few bucks, it will give me a piece of mind.

The new drivers seem to be a much better design,

Good to hear the feed back on the anti Stab, seems I am headed the right direction....
 

H2O

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If you look at the center stock driver on the new PRO it is a lot thinner than the previous models.
This was done to prevent the ice and snow buildup.
Only time will tell if this truly works, I will be leaving mine stock for now.
 

Redlineryan

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I have the 2011 Assault Rmk and im gunna swap out the competition track to the seires 5.1. will the stock drivers work alright? is their anything else i should look for or should it just be a simple swap?
 

kurtis.g

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i plan on doing a swap on my assault aswell, could you post updates if you do yours, any info is helpfull.
 

Redlineryan

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I did mine it was suprisingly easy actually only took 4 hours. hardest part was getting the skid back in their had to use a a rachet strap to compress the skid to get it bolted back up. and had to rig up a funnel and a little tube to fill the chaincase. but other than that its a pretty easy job.
 

Redlineryan

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I did mine it was suprisingly easy actually only took 4 hours. hardest part was getting the skid back in their had to use a a rachet strap to compress the skid to get it bolted back up. and had to rig up a funnel and a little tube to fill the chaincase. but other than that its a pretty easy job.
 

Chrisco

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I think you will have to cut some of the tip off the rail so they dont hit the drivers and use a antistab wheel kit. I think a 1 1/2 inch off the rail tip look at this pic.
 

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4strokin'

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when you have the skid back in you don't need to compress skid with ratchet strap. just get front bolts in skid then pop your springs off and you can align your holes for rear, bolt them up re-install springs and tighten up. simple,simple.;)
 

Mikew5j

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when you have the skid back in you don't need to compress skid with ratchet strap. just get front bolts in skid then pop your springs off and you can align your holes for rear, bolt them up re-install springs and tighten up. simple,simple.;)

That works great with torque springs, but not so much with a rear coil shock that the Pro has. A ratchet strap is the way to go.
 

4strokin'

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ahh i see, very good to know thanks for the info. what do you guys think is the way to go, camo extreme or 5.1?
 

Redlineryan

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ahh i see, very good to know thanks for the info. what do you guys think is the way to go, camo extreme or 5.1?

im really liking the 5.1 it was way cheaper to put on because you can use the stock drivers. iv only got the 155 5.1 on and im not to far behind keeping up to my buddies 180+hp m1000 162. i think if i had the 163 i would be almost even with him or maybe 10 more horses.
 

kurtis.g

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Anyone know of a take off from a dragon or pro 155 for sale. Im trying to get rid of that assault track
 

4strokin'

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im really liking the 5.1 it was way cheaper to put on because you can use the stock drivers. iv only got the 155 5.1 on and im not to far behind keeping up to my buddies 180+hp m1000 162. i think if i had the 163 i would be almost even with him or maybe 10 more horses.

yeah i believe it, watched my boss put the hurt on a couple stock m1000 162's with his 163 pro in revy this past december, they sure work well! is it a different pitch track why you have to change drivers?
 

Redlineryan

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I never changed drivers i just did a straight track swap track is same pitch as assualt track. whooped my friend all weekend last weekend on his stock 2008 m1000 162.
 
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