Mesh hood

[boondockin]

Hi,
Has anybody made their own mesh hood? or know of anybody who has? I have a 95 summit 670 with a few mods and i want to put on a mesh hood but i dont want to pay the $400 it takes to buy. I'll try building something before I buy....I'm cheap like that. Any ideas or help?
thanks

 

[KORE]

Im actually fabing my own mesh grill kit right now, ill post some pics and I seen this on dootalk

 

[boondockin]

Im actually fabing my own mesh grill kit right now, ill post some pics and I seen this on dootalk

thanks! what kinda metal did you use? and where did you get your mesh from?

 

[KORE]

search on Dootalk for this I think its for sale,

 

[Modman]

thanks! what kinda metal did you use? and where did you get your mesh from?

Have used 3/8 aluminum tubing, be careful if go the tubing route, it is lighter than all others but it will kink if you don't bend it properly, use a piece of 1" alum flatbar in the channel of the bellypan like the pics above. The mesh is called Textaline Mesh (it is a marine type of application) you can buy it at boating upholstery shops or order it off the web. You may have to glue it on in places, it is sometimes tough to sew. I'm working on something now that might be better (with a different type of fabric), might be a better solution. You can buy a similar type of material to Textaline at places like Campers Village (here in Calgary), quite often these places do not support the Recreational user groups in the backcountry and in fact, support the Eco groups who typically are looking to restrict recreational user access. Just something to think about for where you purchase.

One thing to be concerned with is the nylon type materials, I know a couple of guys who melted a few trying them out, anything where there is the potential for excessive pipe heat or the hood comes close to the pipes has the potential to melt, stretch, sag, etc.

As for the cost, I spent almost $150 on tubing, flat bar and aluminum plate for a dash area, no cost for welding as I am very fortunate to have a buddy that is a professional welder and has a tig, and about $30 for the current fabric that I'm going to try, but the other textaline type may run you about $20-30/meter, and you may need up to 2 meters (6 feet). Flat bar is cheaper, easier to make into a hood and would be a better choice if you don't have access to a welder IMO.

 

[Thunderguy BOOSTED]

Hey Mod man
Would u be willing to make me one?

 

[synergycycle]

iz this hard to do?

 

[Modman]

No, if you can bend alum, use a drill and rivet gun, then you can probably build one of these.

 

[synergycycle]

No, if you can bend alum, use a drill and rivet gun, then you can probably build one of these.

is it hard to make it look the same on both sides?

 

[boots]

it should be an easy build... thoose pics look like they used all flat bar all around ...

 

[shawnmcgr]

Modman has built some quality hoods....I've seen him roll test them! :d

 

[my mod]

yes, they are easy to build. modman is right. just use flatbar for the first one. you can get all kinds of metal you need at the metal superstore in calgary.
we used quick snaps like on your jackets to put the covers on then you can take part or all of the cover off when it gets to warm

 

[synergycycle]

oww yea what kind of metal do you use to start? like around the base?

 

[my mod]

make everything out of aluminum

 

[Modman]

yes, they are easy to build. modman is right. just use flatbar for the first one. you can get all kinds of metal you need at the metal superstore in calgary.
we used quick snaps like on your jackets to put the covers on then you can take part or all of the cover off when it gets to warm

Exactly the same thing I do...just be sure that you have your pods on your air stacks before you roll it without the fabric on, or the carbs will get filled with snow....Right Shawn??? LMAO nothing like learning the same lesson twice in one day.... When are we building your new hood?

The beauty of mesh hoods is that you can bend them right back into place if you roll them over, no repairs needed usually. The bad thing is that you can't bushwack trees hardcore or the fabric can get caught and rip. Most branches will bounce off, but if you stuff it into a treewell, be prepared to do some fabric repairs, the fabric pierces easier than fiberglass.

The metal on the bottom is 1" X 1/8" flatbar, curves to fit the groove/mounting tabs in the bellypan perfectly. then once you have it there, start mounting the cross braces to keep it in place. Strength is how much metal you add to it - the more metal you add, the stronger (and heavier) it will be. So use some discretion. You can use the same 1" for the cross braces, or you can use 1/4" or 3/8" solid roundbar as well. If you use the roundbar, then you will need a welder to attach the cross braces to the main bottom hoop. If you go with 1" flat bar for the cross braces, then you can drill and rivet the pieces together without welding.

Two things to keep in mind - 1 -you don't want to use too coarse of a fabric or it will let lots of water in, and 2 - keep the front of it higher than the stock hood where it gets close to the pipe(s). The heat from the pipes can melt the fabric depending on which type you use, leaving you with a big hole in the hood.

I don't have pics on this computer but I can post some next week.

 

[synergycycle]

Exactly the same thing I do...just be sure that you have your pods on your air stacks before you roll it without the fabric on, or the carbs will get filled with snow....Right Shawn??? LMAO nothing like learning the same lesson twice in one day.... When are we building your new hood?

The beauty of mesh hoods is that you can bend them right back into place if you roll them over, no repairs needed usually. The bad thing is that you can't bushwack trees hardcore or the fabric can get caught and rip. Most branches will bounce off, but if you stuff it into a treewell, be prepared to do some fabric repairs, the fabric pierces easier than fiberglass.

The metal on the bottom is 1" X 1/8" flatbar, curves to fit the groove/mounting tabs in the bellypan perfectly. then once you have it there, start mounting the cross braces to keep it in place. Strength is how much metal you add to it - the more metal you add, the stronger (and heavier) it will be. So use some discretion. You can use the same 1" for the cross braces, or you can use 1/4" or 3/8" solid roundbar as well. If you use the roundbar, then you will need a welder to attach the cross braces to the main bottom hoop. If you go with 1" flat bar for the cross braces, then you can drill and rivet the pieces together without welding.

Two things to keep in mind - 1 -you don't want to use too coarse of a fabric or it will let lots of water in, and 2 - keep the front of it higher than the stock hood where it gets close to the pipe(s). The heat from the pipes can melt the fabric depending on which type you use, leaving you with a big hole in the hood.

I don't have pics on this computer but I can post some next week.

Thank you very mutch! :d

 

[scrfce]

not to thread jack but you guys seem to know what ur talkin about wen it comes to the mesh hoods.....was wondering how strong and durable the aftermarket (diamond s) ones are compared to regular stock m8?

was thinkin of getting one, just dont know a whole lot about em

 

[TABSTER]

Diamond S hoods are strong. They are made from aluminum tubing, which is stronger than flat bar. Lots of guys like to build there own hoods, one of them fun projects and cheaper if you don't include your time that it takes to get the materials and the assembly as a cost.

 

[scrfce]

Diamond S hoods are strong. They are made from aluminum tubing, which is stronger than flat bar. Lots of guys like to build there own hoods, one of them fun projects and cheaper if you don't include your time that it takes to get the materials and the assembly as a cost.

as strong and durable as stock?

 

[Modman]

as strong and durable as stock?

Not as strong and durable as stock but still very strong and much easier to fix. Diamond S hoods are good hoods IMO.

Nothing is as durable as a stock hood, for the simple fact that you don't have a one piece structure for the rigid frame and covering. But mesh hoods are way lighter and way easier to fix.

tabneil is correct, a mesh hood is only cheaper if you don't factor in your time to build it, if you do, it probably costs you more than buying one...