M1000 gearing swtich

Mski

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M1000 gearing switch

Hello there, Iv done a lot of reading on here but have a few questions just needing a final answer on. I have a 08 M1000 nightfire which i understand has mechanical reverse and 60/60 gearing. I'm looking at getting into m8 gearing which i believe is 57/63. Is changing the gearing as straight forward as ordering the new gears from black diamond or more parts required? Also when looking at the gearing part numbers am i looking for non reverse or reverse gears? and finally my buddy has 09 M8 gears he changed, but those have electronic reverse if Im correct so these gears will not work?

Thanks for any info!
 
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moyiesledhead

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Re: M1000 gearing switch

You're looking for reverse case gears for an '08.....but really, why do you want to turn your M1000 into a heavy M8? Mine had M8 gearing in it when I bought it and I was very disappointed. Went back to stock 60/60 last year and now I love the thing. Goes like a 1000 should. My advice is....don't do it! :nono:

If you're going to do it anyway, best plan on buying bearings too. Pulling the old ones off and re-using them isn't a great idea unless you can get them off without using a puller.
 
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glengine

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Re: M1000 gearing switch

I also run an '08 M1000 nightfire. And i dont know why you'd want to gear it dowm???? I have a hard time keepin the ski's down with the stock gearing that yes is 60/60. And i pull around the 65mph mark for track speed so why would you gear it down? I've heard of some guys doing it then in the long term end up going back to srock, if anything i was thinking about gearing mine up.
 

Mski

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Thanks for the info, so for gearing mods you'd recommend keeping the 60/60 gearing or should I try gearing higher to 61/59 or 63/57?

Im just looking for the best mods to do to the sled without a turbo and million dollar budget.
 

moyiesledhead

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I'd certainly go up before i'd go down, but really...I'm happy with stock gearing. SLP single pipe set will really wake it up though. Around 190hp according to SLP....probably a good solid 180hp in the real world. Well worth it for me.
 

glengine

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Yah i run the full speedwerx set-up and a jaws can, and i also put the camo extreme track on. Those two mods exhaust and track made a huge DIFFERENCE, it seems liek a totally different sled than before. The stock '07, '08 tracks were junk because they were way to soft. And if you put an exhaust on it and a boondocker box give a call or shoot me a PM and i can give the numbers to put into the BD box and you should be very close to bang on for settings.
 

sledhead800

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hey glengine do u have any other mods done with with your sled or is it just a pipe kit and track????
 

mountianguy

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I think a secondary mod is just as important.Use a RKTec or your own but the secondary is the reason guys were gearing down they were trying to gear out a clutching problem.
 

Catberg

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Hey Glengine I have an 08 M1000 with slp y pipe, pipe and can, boon docker box. Can I put all this stuff on my 2010 M1000? My 08 has stock gearing and the primary and secondary clutching recommended by slp. Problem is that it revs too high (7600) and I am only seeing 75 to 80 km track speed. How do I get more of that power to the ground when I switch this stuff over to the new sled?
 

KatMan

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So here's some really stupid questions.

I thought that the point of any mods to your sled drive train(other than a longer/deeper track) would be to increase your track speed. If you increase the gear ratio(larger primary, smaller secondary) this will occur, but you may not have enough HP to obtain your max RPM(7600,???). So then the mods would bring up your HP/RPM to 7600 and the track spins faster.

Whats happens if you do not modify the gear ratio and mod your sled? Just higher RPM's? Don't the 1000's govern themselves out to avoid over reving? If you are unable to maintain 7600 climbing, then i can see the mods helping out, or if altitude starts dropping your HP.

Here is another point, if the 1000's do not govern out @ 7600, then wouldn't you over rev due to a higher HP with no gear changes? Clutch changes will only engage clutch sooner, it won't allow a larger ratio from primary to secondary, or will it?

How much over revving is to much?(i would think with the technology of the engines, this would be easily avoided as a standard feature)
 

glengine

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hey glengine do u have any other mods done with with your sled or is it just a pipe kit and track????
Other than the exhaust and track i've gone to a kmod rear susp because stock i had a huge wheelie issue. I have a rk tek secondary clutch kit, my own primary clutching and a 3 degree timing key, speedwerx billet airhorn and slp hose delete on the intake. Other than that she's stock. Oh and i spin mine at 7800rpm and it loves it and it'll hold it all day long. They do have a govener but i beleive it doesn't hit it till 8000rpm. You dont make any more power over 7850rpm, with the speedwerx and the slp i beleive is with like 50rpm of that.
 

glengine

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Hey Glengine I have an 08 M1000 with slp y pipe, pipe and can, boon docker box. Can I put all this stuff on my 2010 M1000? My 08 has stock gearing and the primary and secondary clutching recommended by slp. Problem is that it revs too high (7600) and I am only seeing 75 to 80 km track speed. How do I get more of that power to the ground when I switch this stuff over to the new sled?

Yah the stuff will fit on your 2010 aswell. I would be curious to know what clutching you have because i tried some helix`s that i lost huge track speed compared to what it makes now.Let it rev to max 7800 and then if it drops to like 7700 or 7750 in a climb thats totally fine. I spin mine at 7800-7850. And it loves it.
 

glengine

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Do you know your track speed? I thought with the pipe can etc that I should be seeing about 85 to 90 km at least?

Do you have stock gearing in it still? With the clutching and stuff thats done to mine i pull over 60mph track speed. Have a hard time keepin an eye on that tho because usually to busy watchin to make sure not gonna run over stuff or hit things. LOL..
 

glengine

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So here's some really stupid questions.

I thought that the point of any mods to your sled drive train(other than a longer/deeper track) would be to increase your track speed. If you increase the gear ratio(larger primary, smaller secondary) this will occur, but you may not have enough HP to obtain your max RPM(7600,???). So then the mods would bring up your HP/RPM to 7600 and the track spins faster.

Whats happens if you do not modify the gear ratio and mod your sled? Just higher RPM's? Don't the 1000's govern themselves out to avoid over reving? If you are unable to maintain 7600 climbing, then i can see the mods helping out, or if altitude starts dropping your HP.

Here is another point, if the 1000's do not govern out @ 7600, then wouldn't you over rev due to a higher HP with no gear changes? Clutch changes will only engage clutch sooner, it won't allow a larger ratio from primary to secondary, or will it?

How much over revving is to much?(i would think with the technology of the engines, this would be easily avoided as a standard feature)

The key with the 1000's is the gear ratio they have stock is fine if anything a tad low. Have to remeber that the clutches are variable on there own so if it's under to heavy aload it'll back shift and in escense lower the gear ratio on it's own. That is why when you add mods to the sled and get it making more power you have to add more weight to the primary clutch so tha tit doesn't over rev. Ther are so many things tha tare involved when you get into clutching and there are also more than one way to accomplish the same thing. The profile of the weight or ramp also change how the sleds shifts and top rpm and stuff like that.


On my personal M1000(that's for sale) the clutch engages at about 2800rpm and it spins up to around the 7800rpm and it'll hold that all day long. Some people say well you cant have it engage that low it'll bog it down and not work well. Well to that all's i can say is that everyone that i've let try it says it engages and pulls like a freight train on roids. And i'd have to agree. The only reason selling it is because i got a new 2012 comin. And man do i got some really cool big power naturally apirated stuff in the works for this winter for the M8's.
 

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I am running an SLP Green/ yellow 40-73 with SLP Mtx 77gram 40-118 weights with 3grams in the outer hole and 2 grams on the inner hole on the primary. On the secondary I am using a 46/36 SLP helix. The sled runs at 7650 no problem. It never deviates. The problem is that my track speed is 80km/ 50 mph max. It seems like I have tons of power just not making any speed. I have v force reeds, slp big horn intake, and slp y pipe, single pipe and can with a boondocker controller. It goes from zero to 50 mph track speed in the blink of an eye but wont really spin up past that. I am thinking that i need to try something different on the secondary perhaps? What is that RKT secondary like? I am going to switch everything over to the 2010 and use the 08 as a spare but I should be seeing more track speed for all of the power that I think I am making.
 

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sledhead800

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U could try a different helix with a little more finish like a 46/38 for a example or a straight angle helix perhaps
 

bigbore

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keep going heavier in your primary weights until you cant maintain your max RPM, I know guys that are running 90ish grams with the dalton clutch kit 86-88 sems to be the most common though.
 
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