I'm debating what to do with my 03 800 rmk. I believe the pto side rod bearing just went. I've heard all kinds of horror stories about these engines failing shortly after a wide bearing upgrade. It would be nice to hear the good stories. has anyone had good luck with some minor repairs?
its time for crank work
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Polarblu
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Older polaris engines are my specialty. Everytime i rebuild one i replace the two pto side bearing no matter what(because they fail and it dosnt have to go to a machine shop to do it). The big bearing mod works but a real engine plate works better. You can buy the engine plates used or have a blank one built. The added rigidity is what matters. Also when you split the cases the oil hole on the pto side is partially covered. It part of the mod to work that hole a bit but this also can be done at home. When you split the case you will see from dark marks where the bearing sits and it will make perfect sense, a little drilling or die grinding and you have proper oil flow. Also go pre-mix. With the engine plate on a fresh crank with that oil hole mod and pre-mix you will enjoy thousands of miles on your trusty 800.
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Polarblu
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The engine in those models is sitting on two straps between the engine and the bulkhead. In older versions instead of those two strips of aluminum the engine was mounted on a big solid aluminum plate. the rigid plate helps to keep the crankshaft bore true which makes the bearings last. I'm hands on in my fuel mixture, i dont trust the pump after warranty is off. Just my way of doing things and as far as my warranty when i build and engine if its not premix the warrant is 30 seconds or 30 feet whatever comes first!!
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Polarblu
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Always oem in a poo!!!!!!! No BS the OEM is designed to expand at the same rate as the cylinder. Unless you want to do extended warm up sessions dont do it.
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i was told the same thing by both mountain magic and specialty when i was looking for slugs for the wifes 03 800 rmk. the aftermarket lighter crap likes to drop their skirts as well. caiusing even more issues.
m/m actually said and i qoute, i can sell you pistons for that sled right now for 90 bucks a hole but you will be back and be pissed off. if cycle works has them in stock get them. 210 per side but well worth the extra if you dont have to do it every 1000 miles. imo
heavy d
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I went with the "Indy Dan" bottom end, 5 yrs warrenty, can't go wrong. and like PB said, an engine plate is monumental in the longevity of these engines.
You can also take a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate, as it is the perfect fit between the block and existing engine straps. you can fit it in and tig it up, this ties the straps together, and supplies a flat rigid surface for the block to sit on
You can also take a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate, as it is the perfect fit between the block and existing engine straps. you can fit it in and tig it up, this ties the straps together, and supplies a flat rigid surface for the block to sit on
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heavy d
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I sent my cases and crank/rods, down to Minnisotta in the spring as a preventative measure, the crank still measured within spec, but the way I look at it, spend 1400 - 1600 at the dealer......no warranty. Or spend 2000 including shipping to have a line bore, big bearing kit, new rods and bearings, welded pins, re-worked oiling galleries, and the pto upsized from 30mm - 33mm and billet with a five yr guarentee can't be beat. I've also talked to Dan about NOS, or a possible turbo with a big bore, and he says it will not effect his warrenty...............can't be beat
My $ 0.02
My $ 0.02
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