Edmonton area XP warranty or updates:

MrMorgan

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I would like to hear what everyone is being told by their dealers regarding XP udates and warranty issues. Here is what I have been told by Riverside so far:

-Hot grips and fuel tank are to be updated on early production models (mine was delivered in Nov so it requires the update)

-There is a new belt for the XP and blown or excessively worn ones will be warranteed. (Dropping 2mm in the secondary after 190miles is not seen as excessive.)

-The gearing is not to be updated unless the customer requests (more like insists). They don't seem eagre to do this one.
 

summitx

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Pretty much the same thing from Wetaskiwin but that had absolutely no issues doing my gears, actually the service manager asked me if I wanted it done when it was in for its 10 hr service. So far thumbs up to Wetaskiwin Motorsports. By the way the new gearing (19T) rocks.
 

MrMorgan

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So you just changed the one sproket to 19, left the other? I didn't think this 08 was short for torque compared to my 05. Is this just a playing around nice-to-have, or is the extra torque showing a better gain then track speed when climbing?
 

sumx54

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the shorter gear is seeing less work on the clutch's resulting in lower clutch temps=less blown belts. My dealer has been satisfactory (Echo Marine) no problem with the updates what so ever, but all updates that were done, I had to ASK for them. They did not divalge any information to me. So do your homework first. I'm welding my drive shaft in the morn.
 

sumx54

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Theres a thread floating around here about it and a few on doodoo-talk but whats happening is the drive shaft is a three piece, press fit drive shaft with some sort of friction weld on the ends and they have been known to come apart. Its a fairly easy job to do, you just drill holes and cap weld them to prevent seperation.
 

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duck

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Theres a thread floating around here about it and a few on doodoo-talk but whats happening is the drive shaft is a three piece, press fit drive shaft with some sort of friction weld on the ends and they have been known to come apart. Its a fairly easy job to do, you just drill holes and cap weld them to prevent seperation.

Nice pics of my driveshaft huh?.....lol

You will find that with the 19 tooth top gear you will see 50-53 mph track speed when climbing. With the stock 21, same speed. Difference is how cool the clutches will be with the 19. For the mountains, the 19 is the way to go. I've got 550 miles on original belt and looks perfect. Although, last week I finally got my conversion shaft in and the team secondary and it works as good as the QRS but now its floating and belt issues will never be a problem. Cleaning and adjusting will be alot easier with the Team.....
 

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08 800 x doo

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How much did it cost for the clutch change over with the shaft & clutch & when you say floating that means that the clutch moves back & fourth like the old sled did
Also where can i buy this set up the clutchs on the XP i think are a joke
I wonder how many time you are going to ajust or put a new belt on before the holes in the end of the clutch strip out just knot a good set up any info would be nice thanks
 

2003Summit

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Got grips done.
No fuel tank issues (I think that was with the everest, mine is an X)
Got re-geared to 19
got weight added to the clutch (was over rev-ing)

All done under warr. No hassels at all.

Also said, if belt goes, I should be able to get warr. (1 new belt)

Happy w/Riverside.

Revs are right on. Pulling harder but I think it could do a little better - would like to see it with the new belt. Clutches are cooler, but still warm. Don't know if it is too warm, gunna have to get the IR gun out next time and take real measurements. Can at least touch them now. Belt is still looking good for now.
 

duck

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How much did it cost for the clutch change over with the shaft & clutch & when you say floating that means that the clutch moves back & fourth like the old sled did
Also where can i buy this set up the clutchs on the XP i think are a joke
I wonder how many time you are going to ajust or put a new belt on before the holes in the end of the clutch strip out just knot a good set up any info would be nice thanks

Team makes a conversion kit with shaft, gears, secondary for $675
Mine was around $1000 because I got the parts myself. Mountain magic in Edmonton has everything you need. Just lots of cabbage($$$$$) though.....and, I made a spacer to float the Team on the XP.
 

08 800 x doo

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Thanks for the info i would like to here about the diff in the two clutchs
let me now after you have had it in the hills thanks
 

duck

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Thanks for the info i would like to here about the diff in the two clutchs
let me now after you have had it in the hills thanks

Just from riding around in the fields and what not where I live, There is no difference at all. I was having really good luck with the stock set up but I did not like the plastic deflection adjuster and the fact that you cannot shim the QRS to the engine. My top speed has stayed the same (90mph), top rpm is the same. I'm running Dalton pins with 18 grams of total pin weight and she runs at 8250-8300 on the tach all day long. Geared 19/45 and vented side panels. Also have Neils power pipes can installed. The deflection is so nice to set on the Team and belt removal is the same as the older Doo secondary without the need to re doo the belt deflection every time you remove the belt like you have to do with the new QRS.
 

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08 800 x doo

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hay man i had neil build me a pipe & can for my 700 high mark he did a good job it is the extra sled incause the 800 is broken
 

STALL

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I have been told that on the XP 154 800's

They are adding weight to the primary clutch (I think they tiold me it workes out to 3.2 grams) second Martin Farm and Wetaskiwin motor sports they will drop one or two teeth from you top gear in the chain case for hard core mountain guys they told me a 19 tooth top gear for guys who are a mis of around here and mountains go to a 20 tooth top.

They also told me that they will cover any belts that have blown up but not the brand new spare I think we all would have bought.

They told me that the added weight will stop the over reving at 2500 feet and will not let the belt slip as much in the mid range which will stop the clutch from slipping so much and make the power band be much more usable.

I have had it done on mine but have not tried it yet.
 

duck

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I have been told that on the XP 154 800's

They are adding weight to the primary clutch (I think they tiold me it workes out to 3.2 grams) second Martin Farm and Wetaskiwin motor sports they will drop one or two teeth from you top gear in the chain case for hard core mountain guys they told me a 19 tooth top gear for guys who are a mis of around here and mountains go to a 20 tooth top.

They also told me that they will cover any belts that have blown up but not the brand new spare I think we all would have bought.

They told me that the added weight will stop the over reving at 2500 feet and will not let the belt slip as much in the mid range which will stop the clutch from slipping so much and make the power band be much more usable.

I have had it done on mine but have not tried it yet.

Shoot!, a few of us were doing this back in December.....Dealers had no clue! BRP must watch Dootalk, because this is where I posted alot of this info back in december/07. BRP then relates to dealers. What a bunch of morons (BRP and their dealer network).
As soon as I got the sled home....
19/45 gearing
vented side panels
Dalton pins with 18 grams weight (as measured on my digital gram scale)
removed all the foam, and the plastic (tool holder, etc)

One quick 10 minute ride in my back field revealed weight was too light in the primary. Clicker #1 as received from the dealer netted 8500 rpm.....BRP has no idea how to set up a mountain sled.....Ok, I'm done venting.....good thing the sled is.....
 

proper

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decided to change the primary gear myself on my xp 154 and the dealer had no problem with that. thats the good news, the bad news is three of the bolts holding the drive chain cover on snapped in half after two or three turns out. it seems brp decided to use self tapping bolts that are brittle and very hard. one of the bolts is on the bottom, very difficult to drill out, harder to tap. new chain case should get here in a week. to remove the cover turn the bolt out one turn then in a half a turn or you will be looking at a ten hour repair like i am at 70 0r 80 bucks a hour. sucks to be me.
 

sumx54

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decided to change the primary gear myself on my xp 154 and the dealer had no problem with that. thats the good news, the bad news is three of the bolts holding the drive chain cover on snapped in half after two or three turns out. it seems brp decided to use self tapping bolts that are brittle and very hard. one of the bolts is one the bottom, very difficult to drill out, harder to tap. new chain case should get here in a week. to remove the cover turn the bolt out one turn then in a half a turn or you will be looking at a ten hour repair like i am at 70 0r 80 bucks a hour. sucks to be me.


welcome to the site proper. Sounds like you had a bad day. I also did my gearing myself and I did strip one of the upper bolts on the case, kinnda chezzy, but I managed to repair it alright. To anyone pulling your chaincase cover off BE CAREFULL
 

STALL

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that is not good news, I think that the magnesium chain case may have somthing to do with that bolt problem. It looks like BRP had used the same bolts on the chain case covers for years but untill 08 the cases were always made out of molded aluminum. I have looked at mine completly and have found some areas that I know will eventually cause problems depending on how long a guy keeps it or how hard you ride. I don't like to do big jumps so I think I will avoid most of the things I noticed.

I was in Martin Farm the other day and they told me one of the customers did a big jump and landed on the drive shaft at the peek of the jump and it folded the sled in half.............wrote it off ouch. I think that would make me cry...........my sled is my baby.
 
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