Changing rear drive shaft on canam 650....?

maxwell

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Can't figure it out do you have to slide the rear diff backwards?

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kbrunlees

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There are 4 bolts holding the diff in the frame. Remove your rear tires and pull the diff back about 8 to 10 inches, that should give you enough room to pull the driveshaft out. and you have to turn the driveshaft just the right way to get the front u-joint out. Reverse the process to install. don't forget the red locktight when you install the two bolts holding the driveshaft in place. You will need a press to replace your u-joints properly. put a drain pan under the diff when you move it out as the shaft seals the end and it will drain like a bastard. or you could just drain the rear diff to begin with.
 

maxwell

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Awesome thanks. But no fluid will come out of the transmission side just the diff? I've got a full replacement coming. U joints and all
 

DRD

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Awesome thanks. But no fluid will come out of the transmission side just the diff? I've got a full replacement coming. U joints and all

Who cares, drain them and fill with fresh. A litre will do both easily.
 

kbrunlees

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no the tranny end is fine as it has a sealed bearing in behind. Just make sure you put in the slinger ring as the new one may or may not have it. It looks like a cup and it protects the tranny seal and bearing. How the hell did you twist the shaft so bad? it is just a 650 and not an 800 or a thousand.
 

maxwell

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took a small jump. its got big tires on it and landed full bore.....was on sand tho didnt think it should have broken but o well. perhaps it had some previos damage.
 

TylerG

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no the tranny end is fine as it has a sealed bearing in behind. Just make sure you put in the slinger ring as the new one may or may not have it. It looks like a cup and it protects the tranny seal and bearing. How the hell did you twist the shaft so bad? it is just a 650 and not an 800 or a thousand.

when maxwell breaks stuff, he does it with precision accuracy to ensure the most difficult repair possible.......
 

mighty1000

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That's exactly what that driveshaft is suppose to do in case of a very high shock load. I've seen video of the canam gncc race teams do that and the engineers said it was designed to twist up like that, to protect the trans
 

lsone

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you can do it without moving the diff, have to take the clamps off the boots, it will then compress better. I just use zipties on the boots after. Works like a charm!
 

sumx54

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When you re-install the new one, make sure the the u-joints are not out of sync.

and just pull the few bolts it takes to move the diff "back" it's a hell of a lot easier than prying **** apart and messing with boot clamps will its still in there. I've done it both ways.
 
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TylerG

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When you re-install the new one, make sure the the u-joints are not out of sync.

and just pull the few bolts it takes to move the diff "back" it's a hell of a lot easier than prying **** apart and messing with boot clamps will its still in there. I've done it both ways.

I can't see why you would have had to do that SumX...... I've seen you ride..... those machines of yours never see full throttle, tires never leave the ground......... alright I'll stop before I fall off my chair......
 

kbrunlees

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what SumX is referring to is make sure that the ears of the driveshaft are in line with each other exactly. otherwise you get a really weird vibration. Don't forget to locktite the two bolts on either end. Use marine grease for your universals as they may see water occasionally!
 
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