Bog problems, secondary engaged and stuck now too! Diamond drive problems?

05blazerboy

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I have an '07 M1000, and twice since I got it a week ago it seems almost like the sled has hit a neutral position. I would throttle up and go nowhere. I'd shut the sled down and start it again and it'd be fine. This afternoon on the way home while out ditch bangin', I stopped to help a stuck quad, and my sled just stopped, the secondary is engaged, and stuck. I've been having a lot of problems with a low end bog at WOT and coming down from half throttle, I thought it was an overfueling, mapping of the ECU, bog. But now I'm thinking maybe the diamond drive wouldn't let my secondary disengage? I am formally a doo man, I traded my XP straight across for this cat. Gotta say the cat is already a better handling, more powerful machine, but I'd like to get this clutch, DD, ecu problem fixed. Would the diamond drive cause a low end bog, or does it even affect the secondary at all? There is a clutch kit installed, but I'm not sure what yet...done at Argyll I believe, SLP airbox, V-force3's, speedwerx pipe and can. It's running an M8 belt too. It lets in quite a bit of snow on the clutch side through the vents, and I have a new set on order because the belt slips sometimes going from hard pack to powder at high speeds. Would a boondocker box/power commander be the way to fix the bog on the low end? Re-map the ecu? Would the diamond drive cause these problems? Anyone else having this/these problems? I know nothing about Cats or DD's, any help would be appreciated. I'd like to get up to Renshaw in January, but I dont want to drive all the way down there and up the 30k of trail to have it not fixed. Thanks guys
Terry
 

Snowdoogie

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From what you have said, I would check condition of belt and belt deflection first.
You said the secondary would not move, are you talking it will not turn the track? could be DD problem.
Is not closing onto the belt? Dirty clutch, not enough tension for the belt deflection, broken spring in secondary.
That's where i would start, i had a bad bogg when i first got my 700, cleaned it up after setting proper belt deflection.

Maybe someone with a m1000 can offfer better advice.

Hope you get it fixed.
 

05blazerboy

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I will definitely check the belt, it seemed ok but I'll have to find some specs on the deflection. Right now the secondary is engaged in my shop, when I pull on the recoil the track turns because it is stuck in gear. I'm not sure if there is a spring that activates a backshift or releases the secondary, or if it is the diamond drive that releases it. Thought maybe the bog was coming from the secondary not being fully released when the throttle was let off. Sometimes today after I stopped fairly sudden, then let the brake off, the sled would go another foot or two as if it were still engaged before actually idling down and stopping. There seems to be many reasons and solutions for the bog (ice in the airbox, powervalve cable/clips, fuel mapping, bolt ons with no boondocker box, fuel pump regulator), but now with the secondary being stuck I wonder if the bog is simply a clutch problem.
 

Relic

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You secondary will need tobe replaced, there is a bushing in them that causes this problem and cannt be replaced as know one sells it. With everthing you got on there you should have some way of adding fuel at tob end and pulling fuel at bottom end.:eek:
 

slomo

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i would look at the primary as that is the link that connects the 2,your secondary is always on and if you turn it the track moves which is normal:beer:
 

Blair laursen

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had the same problem had a low end bog all the time and some times the sled would just die out after 3 trips to the dealer and no fix the clutch finally packed it in on the mountain ( jamed up all cock sideways ) one of the rollers was worn out and it was not engaging properly rebuilt the whole clutch problem solved now i just need to lean it out a little and it will be perfect no bogs
 

05blazerboy

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I talked to Echo cycle and they don't do clutch rebuilds, anyone know a dealer that does? Apparently the primary is going to a three post instead of a four post now, and it's over a grand for a brand new OEM part. Being that I have to buy a fuel controller, digitron to monitor my egt's, and a new track I'd like to save a few bucks wherever I can. Thanks
 

markoo

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Try not to fix everything at once. All your problems could be caused by the same thing or from many different things. First of all check your belt. it should be a 46 or a 60. then take you belt off and see if your clutches are stuck. I'm guessing a ceased roller on the primary. Most dealers can rebuild clutches. you don't need a new one unless things are busted up. make sure both clutches are clean and check both springs for breaks. also if you belt deflection is to far out it could cause a bog when starting out.
 

pipes

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check the webs on the helix in the secondary. the OEM rollers are soft and develop flats spots causing things to bind and break the helix. if Helix is OK change to hard rock rollers. they don't develop flat spots.

when you say the secondary is engaged you mean the shivs are opened up?
 
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05blazerboy

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well as it turns out, my primary was seizing up because the spider was cracked up all four posts. That kept the primary stuck open which in turn kept the secondary open. Guess I'm not the mechanic I thought it was, lol. Although, I do seem to have the low end bog still with the new primary, but not as bad, up to about 6000, then it's great. I'm not 100% how to set the deflection, but I have to get it into a dealer and get the new ecu reflash so maybe I'll get them to run me through it. Anyone know what the optimum rpm range is with the speedwerx pipeset? I put the dalton adjustables in it, and in a field today I was 7650 maxed out, and it seemed a little sluggish at WOT. I've heard between 72-7800, but i also just put the pipeset on, and do not run a fuel controller yet...pipeset came with the sled though. Also, the belt I have is off an M8 supposedly, the guy I got the sled from said it was put on because of the harder compound, and all the problems the M1000 had with blowing belts. Anyone know what a good belt is for the M1000's. Is it the 40 and/or 60 as stated earlier? Anyone know what a good fuel controller setup is. I heard the power commander 5 is supposed to be the best, but the autotune is only a quick adjust, and not meant to stay on the sled. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about the attitude, pure logic, or boondocker? Thanks guys.
 

0neoldfart

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Attitude and Pure Logic boxes will not allow you to pull fuel from the map, only add it. Boondocker box can be a bit time consuming to set up, but works great once it is. Can't comment on the PC box, as I haven't run one on my M1K, but will once SLP creates a map for the 07. Being that yours is an 09 - I would run the PC box (has a map for the SLP pipe loaded in it), and the SLP pipe set. I've run both the 060 and the 046 belt, I prefer the 046. Not only is it less expensive, it seems to wear better then the 060's I've used... weird as the 060 is supposed to be the heavy duty belt...
 

05blazerboy

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Thanks for the info, I'll check to see what belt I'm running, and maybe pick up a 46 to try out. My sled is an '07 though, not an '09, with a speedworks pipeset, not slp, so if you're running a boondocker and it works well, then that's what I'll probably try out. I can pull fuel from the map with it though you were saying? What kind ofadjustments did you make with your boondocker?
 
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