Bleeding brakes...

[NoBrakes!]

As the title states, I have a friend who just installed a 2016 yeti 129 on his yz450F and is having trouble getting the new brake to pressure up. tried a syringe to pull fluid, pump/bleed method, kind of stumped. Any help would be appreciated! thanks

 

[pat84]

Not sure of the perfect way on a Yeti, I think they have a speed bleeder, I guess I'll find out soon enough. But the way to do it on the Timbersled was back bleeding. Worked awesome every time. Then after that, zip tie the lever to the bar for a day, after that you will have the firm brake you're after.

 

[NoBrakes!]

zip tie the handle to the bar after?

 

[pat84]

Ya I read about it somewhere and gave it a try. Worked well for me, obviously I can't say for sure it'll work for you. I just googled it and lots of info came up. Some say it works, and some say it didn't and of course some people say there's no possible way it can do anything. All I know is my brakes have never been so firm. My brake would build pressure before I zip tied it but I wanted it firmer.

 

[moyiesledhead]

Brakes that work would be awesome! Never did get my TS to do anything more than give me false hope last year.

 

[NoBrakes!]

Brakes that work would be awesome! Never did get my TS to do anything more than give me false hope last year.

lol just something to squeeze haha

 

[Revyman]

Bleed the banjo bolt to, air can get trapped in there.

 

[Lund]

The reason many have a hard time bleeding that style of brakes (motorcycle/snowmobiles at times) is because of the elevated master. Air will tend to trap it self at the highest point.
The best way is to eliminate the air. To do that you use a container with brake fluid in it at the caliper with a hose going from the caliper bleeder into the container.
Open the bleeder screw. Then fill the master. Then pump the master slowly but continually till no air bubbles are present. Then close off the bleeder screw and your done.

I have heard of guys lifting the back end or front end of bikes higher then the handle bars to bleed brakes....LOL..that will work cause the air will naturally go out the highest point but that kinda weird way of doing it.

BTW, i've done...lost count, works 100% every time.

 

[Honky Tonk]

Did you get it to work?..
I also have had problems with brake bleeds, especially with a new install.. The dry brake hose has a tendency to hold bubbles of air.. I've tried to remove the master from the handlebars and hold it lower than the caliper when bleeding, doesn't always work..Take your time, some bleeds take twenty minutes, some forty..I've also tried to spread the brake pads at the caliper to push fluid back up to the master..All I can say is take your time, be patient, do it right.. As stated above,you may have to let it sit overnight to soak the inside of the brake hose..

 

[Mike270412]

He's right you know.This works.

The reason many have a hard time bleeding that style of brakes (motorcycle/snowmobiles at times) is because of the elevated master. Air will tend to trap it self at the highest point.
The best way is to eliminate the air. To do that you use a container with brake fluid in it at the caliper with a hose going from the caliper bleeder into the container.
Open the bleeder screw. Then fill the master. Then pump the master slowly but continually till no air bubbles are present. Then close off the bleeder screw and your done.

I have heard of guys lifting the back end or front end of bikes higher then the handle bars to bleed brakes....LOL..that will work cause the air will naturally go out the highest point but that kinda weird way of doing it.

BTW, i've done...lost count, works 100% every time.

 

[NoBrakes!]

my friend took advice from the post and got it, thanks guys!