anyone replace a u-joint on Ranger?

[eclipse1966]

I have a 2011 800 XP and need to replace the front u-joint. Any ideas / suggestions what is the best way to remove the drive shaft from the machine? Tks

 

[tex78]

I changed both to greaseable ones in my rzr, lordco had them


Shaft was a byotch to get off the motor shaft, had to unbolt the front diff to get shaft room and angle it out the front of the machine

Pound both roll pins out, use bolts with lock nuts after

Would think a ranger would be similar

 

[tex78]

If u need a hand I can come help, wont be home from dipperland till after next weekend tho

 

[eclipse1966]

Tks Jeff and the offer! Going to try and tackle it this morning. Bought the ujoints with grease nipples already. I found a youtube video as well. Apparently they suggest removing the skid plate too.

 

[Lund]

Roll pin's can easily be removed or installed with a "ROLL PIN" punch. Any other style punch don't work very well in removing or installing roll pin's.
The other advantage to a roll pin is it's unlikely to lockup in the shaft even after years of service, center is hallow, so pin will collapse before binding. A bolt even with never seize, if accidentally hit and the end flares will lock up and good luck on ever getting it out with out a major head ache, plus do you really want to beat the crap out of input shaft. Does wonders on bearings and shafts if things lock up.
This style of retention is very common in heavy equipment for that very reason. It will eventually need to come apart.

 

[eclipse1966]

Lund just seen your post. What a job to get that damn thing out but finally got it done. Both u-joints were DONE! I did use the bolt and nut as Jeff suggested but I do understand what you are saying. Too late now as I am not going to go thru that again

 

[tex78]

Reason why I don't trust the roll pins, they are common for falling out on a polaris, even tho the shaft would still be hard to come off, it would wear the yokes fast

Bolt and lock nut won't fall off

 

[Lem Lamb]

A lite coating of RVT silicone on the bolt for later removal, some on the treads of bolt and nut since it acts like a lock tight.

Once dry the bolt will stay put since RVT is like a rubbery glues.

Black RVT works best, I like the blue stuff because its faster. Ha.

Pal Don

 

[Lund]

Lund just seen your post. What a job to get that damn thing out but finally got it done. Both u-joints were DONE! I did use the bolt and nut as Jeff suggested but I do understand what you are saying. Too late now as I am not going to go thru that again

It will be fine just be aware of what can happen if you try to remove it in a couple years down the line. If you hit it hard enough with a punch and the bolt is solid the end will flare out. Then the fun begins. Been there after bowhack's and crummies try to keep their equipment running. Have to go around them fixing thing's properly.
The roll pin serves very little purpose other then keeping the yoke from sliding back and the drive shaft from possibly falling off the diff. spline. All driving loads are taken up by the splines.

 

[arff]

It will be fine just be aware of what can happen if you try to remove it in a couple years down the line. If you hit it hard enough with a punch and the bolt is solid the end will flare out. Then the fun begins. Been there after bowhack's and crummies try to keep their equipment running. Have to go around them fixing thing's properly.
The roll pin serves very little purpose other then keeping the yoke from sliding back and the drive shaft from possibly falling off the diff. spline. All driving loads are taken up by the splines.

Ranger will burn up before next u joint

Your correct pun just keeps shaft from sliding

 

[eclipse1966]

exactly! By the time these joints need replacing should have a new sxs in the garage

Ranger will burn up before next u joint

Your correct pun just keeps shaft from sliding