Anyone disappointed with their 2016 M8?

[Lund]

The gearing at 21/49 with the 7 tooth driver is pretty close to 19/50 on a 8 tooth driver. I found that the 19/50 with the 7 tooth is to slow in the snow. Now that you have both it would be intersting to compare the 2.

I don't know if your aware but if you gear down too far you will find your engine won't produce good hp. You need to put a load on an engine to make hp and by gearing low your actually reducing the load on the crank thus reducing the load on the engine. The other problem it does is make the belt operate farther up the clutch sheave which can create issues with heat.
Basically your overall track speed will remain the same as the original gearing except at WOT, it will be slower.
Because the clutches will compensate for the gearing differences but your drive belt will always operate higher on the sheave of the clutches, this can cause issues, combined with lower hp output. Gearing down is not always a good deal.

 

[Allseasons]

I geared up..... And hope the crap I ordered is giving me more hp in low and mid range. Funny when you add up all the claimed hp each mod should bring. Hell it should be 35more hp lol. Hoping for 8-10, and 25lbs lighter to make up for my fat azz

 

[Vertical-Extreme]

I geared up..... And hope the crap I ordered is giving me more hp in low and mid range. Funny when you add up all the claimed hp each mod should bring. Hell it should be 35more hp lol. Hoping for 8-10, and 25lbs lighter to make up for my fat azz

Jaws Y pipe, pipe, can, BD box and proper clutching will give you a 180hp sled all day long. I wouldn't bother with to many other bolt-ons for power unless you are turboing or big boring

 

[mountianguy]

I don't know if your aware but if you gear down too far you will find your engine won't produce good hp. You need to put a load on an engine to make hp and by gearing low your actually reducing the load on the crank thus reducing the load on the engine. The other problem it does is make the belt operate farther up the clutch sheave which can create issues with heat.
Basically your overall track speed will remain the same as the original gearing except at WOT, it will be slower.
Because the clutches will compensate for the gearing differences but your drive belt will always operate higher on the sheave of the clutches, this can cause issues, combined with lower hp output. Gearing down is not always a good deal.

You are right thankyou. I have geared up for more speed i believe the ratio on the clutches is wrong. The CVT needs to be at 1:1 or as close as possible. On a mountain sled you want that ratio at the speed you are spinning in the snow wide open. IE your sled spins at 40 mph full throttle through 3 ft of powder the cvt is at 1:1 you are getting max performance. I believe mine is not at 1:1 rather the cvt is geared up because the gear case is too slow. The clutching is not at peak performance runs hotter than it should etc.

 

[mountianguy]

I geared up..... And hope the crap I ordered is giving me more hp in low and mid range. Funny when you add up all the claimed hp each mod should bring. Hell it should be 35more hp lol. Hoping for 8-10, and 25lbs lighter to make up for my fat azz

I dont have a dyno to tell the hp. The one i used was the sled it ran at 8150 with 68 g of weight all day stock. With the Jaws BS it ran 8450 with the same weight. Rule of thumb 1 g = 100 rpm. Thats a huge improvement and you will feel the increase. I added mine mid season for a better comparision. I remember as a young guy every fall thinking man this thing is so power full it doesnt need any more. After a trip or 2 you are tring to get more cause it now feels gutless.

 

[Lund]

I dont have a dyno to tell the hp. The one i used was the sled it ran at 8150 with 68 g of weight all day stock. With the Jaws BS it ran 8450 with the same weight. Rule of thumb 1 g = 100 rpm. Thats a huge improvement and you will feel the increase. I added mine mid season for a better comparision. I remember as a young guy every fall thinking man this thing is so power full it doesnt need any more. After a trip or 2 you are tring to get more cause it now feels gutless.

That's correct, 1gram equal approx. 100rpm.
But more importantly its the configuration of the weight that has a more drastic effect. All your OEM stocker cookie cutter sleds are put together and sold with a generic set up, no matter what brand. From suspension to clutching, so this is why you see at times two sleds of the same make and set up but one will appear to go better. The rider weight and style (skill set) is closer to the set up, while the other is not. Some dealer's will set up their sled for their general riding area but rider weight and style is still a crap shoot.
In the grand scheme though most sledders are just average riders and really don't get full potential out of the sled's, but don't really need too as the manufactures are building sled's that perform better then the average rider. So a cookie cutter out of the box works well for those riders.