Aftermarket bars?

F5_Z06

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First ride out and I bent the bars on my '14 m8000.. Couldn't believe coming from a sno pro 600 I guess they aren't as strong. Maybe they're weak to save the steering post? Whats everyone running for aftermarket bars with the adjustable riser?
 

Chump

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I went through a set of the stock bars to. Kinda stupid my mtn bike comes with 1 1/8 bars but a 600 pound sled doesn't... I made sure to give my opinion on that when I did the AC customer survey. I went with the carbon 1 1/8 RSI bars and the adapter to go the bigger bar. As well as the hooks and rsi grip heaters. Havnt ridden I yet but I gotta say the bars feel way better then the stockers. Ordered it from rsi directly for about 260ish and took about 2 weeks shipping.
 

Chump

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Either way sleds are not mean to be rolled, I realize it happens sometimes but I would try to keep it to a minimum. I always see guys purposely rolling there machine to get unstuck and I Cringe.... Also don't know if its differs on the 2014 but make sure you always have a rattle in your oil cap. Otherwise you could starve sled of oil...
 

Throttle-Junkie

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Z-Bros Tpost Adaptor with 5" RSI Pivot Riser & RSI Carbon 1 1/8" Backcountry Bend Bars. RSI Switch Cluster Delete, RSI Grip Heaters & Grips, RSI Throttle Block & Killswitch also Pro Design Kill switch/tether.

Sled is with Deano @ Mad Motorsports when I pick up and mount everything ill post up pics of this set up.




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geordiep

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The stock bars are ridiculously soft. And suggesting you should not roll your sled in powder is just ridiculous.(no offense) I rode with bent stock bars for 2 seasons. I simply heaved them back into shape. They were getting too soft last year so I upgraded this summer.

If you want to stick with 7/8" bars, RSI has a set that will fit the stock switches, but I think they are discontinuing them. (The switch area on the stockers is huge - 10" is needed and a lot of bars don't offer this)

If you go with 1-1/8" bars, you will need an adapter. RSI has a great one that will fit on the stock adjustable post:

oc-1-b.jpg

OVERSIZE 1 1/8" / FAT BAR CLAMP KIT

This summer, I went to 1-1/8" Protaper Contour bars (Universal Low) with a rox riser rocked forward and down. If you feel cramped on the Proclimb, like I do, these really help.
Contour | Pro Taper


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jeffmontanimal

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I got the carbon 1 1/8 bars last year also and love them. It was towards the end of last season though and was in a rush to go riding again and just skipped wiring the grip heaters in. Now I'm going to wire them but can't find the color codes for which wires to connect to which. You wouldn't still have those would you? I'm putting them on a 2013 proclimb. thanks
 

chris155

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Did anyone have any issues with cable length on Proclimb 2013 with after market bars- I'm looking at the CFR Booddockers ( low rise, riser bar) with adapter plate. None the less, is there extra cabling stashed away.

cc
 

Throttle-Junkie

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Did anyone have any issues with cable length on Proclimb 2013 with after market bars- I'm looking at the CFR Booddockers ( low rise, riser bar) with adapter plate. None the less, is there extra cabling stashed away.

cc


Depending on what you put on for riser, With the set up I mentioned before I have lots of extra to work with.


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JONSHOW

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Where do you guys put your high low switch for your lights ?

Unless you are looking to relocate your headlight/warming element controls you can just put them right back on your new bars.
I believe 7/8" is a standard for handlebars. 1-1/8" bars are not 1-1/8" at the grip/control portion of the bar. They are typically 1-1/8" at the center mount area of the bar and sometimes, but not always, 1-1/8" throughout the rise section of the bar and then they will taper out to 7/8" for the grip/control section.
Having the handlebar 1-1/8" through the center section gives the bar added strength through the sections of the bar that are susceptible to bending, the bends.

But....

If you want to relocate your switches buy three of these and build a little switch panel that you can mount down by your gauge.
rsi switch.jpg
Or you can buy a kit from RSI that has the switch panel already built, but theirs only has two switches and it costs what 7 switches would be worth.
rsi switch relocation kit.jpg

Here's my new setup. I got rid of both big clunky Arctic Cat switch pods.
Controls1.jpg
 

stusnow

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Don't forget the piece of cork under heater element when using aluminum bars. I mounted the t-post, 5" risers, RSI switch relocate, CFR boondocker bars.
3 issues I had was poor heat transfer from the grips (need to re do and use cork). the brake lever is at a bad angle due to bend in the bars. The switch relocate kit needs a plug with it for when u take off the hood. I bought a 6 pin automotive style plug and really happy how it turned out
 

catothom

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My handlebar setup. Zbroz post delete, 2" riser, 4" skinz bars, odi grips and stock controlls. Going for a RSI riser and straight bars this spring :)
 

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stusnow

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I used a powermadd throttle block and the stock flipper fits it perfectly. Also mounted 2 Moto style kill switches for kill and reverse. Reverse mounted nicely by the gauge and kill switch is now on my riser. Ended up going with 6" riser
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stusnow

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Crappy iPhone pics and I was in the middle of splicing/soldering for the new buttons. Everything works great tho and handle bars are free of all the stock crap. Grip heaters are working again too!
I ended up finding the cork at local doo dealer that was made for curved bar ends
 
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