2012 Pro Rmk 600 handling

Turblue

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I have my 14 year old son on a 12 600 Pro rmk 155 with 2.5 camo extreme track. He’s been riding since he was 8 years old. Rides probably 6-7 times a year in the mountains. I’m struggling to get this Pro to handle well for him. Seems like there’s excessive ski pressure. I’ve tightened up the centerskid shock 2/3 ....running the ski shocks not really tight, and set the rear shock sag to his weight. His rider weight is probably lower than the stock shocks range. I was also thinking a iceage promotion would help him getting the sled on edge.

Some days I think a 163 would be more forgiving in the soft snow.
 

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Lund

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I have my 14 year old son on a 12 600 Pro rmk 155 with 2.5 camo extreme track. He’s been riding since he was 8 years old. Rides probably 6-7 times a year in the mountains. I’m struggling to get this Pro to handle well for him. Seems like there’s excessive ski pressure. I’ve tightened up the centerskid shock 2/3 ....running the ski shocks not really tight, and set the rear shock sag to his weight. His rider weight is probably lower than the stock shocks range. I was also thinking a iceage promotion would help him getting the sled on edge.

Some days I think a 163 would be more forgiving in the soft snow.

I might be able to help you with that.
First off i have had two boy's go through a similar situation plus i have a wife that loves to ride and has ridden for years but age is getting to us.
So over the years i have spent countless hours making changes to sleds to accommodate weaker rider's.
The biggest thing is making the sled feel easy to them, so bar height is important. Have them stand on the running boards feet in the pocket's elbows against the body. The forearms should be at 90deg to the body. Doing so will make them stand straight and not hunch over the sled, especially on off cambers.
When a rider is hunch he is essentially off balance and the sled will do what it wants.
Ski stance is also important, make it narrow, 36, even 34"if you can. I have my wife sled set up at 35" now with the ability to go to 34 if i have too.
Rear skid set up is very important, you need to make the sled feel light. Even a heavy sled can be made to feel light simply by cranking up the center shock. This will lighted the ski pressure and the rider will feel more confident as he won't be fighting the sled. A new rider won't be chute climbing so you can soften the rear and as they get better you can slowly readjust thing to their abilities.
My wife goes pretty much anywhere we go and her setup is similar to what i just described, the only thing is she tires out quicker then we do, after a 7-8hr day LOL.

As i did to my SW and my wife's Cat you might need to replace the center spring with a heavier one, it makes a huge difference in picking up the front weight.
 

Turblue

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I might be able to help you with that.
First off i have had two boy's go through a similar situation plus i have a wife that loves to ride and has ridden for years but age is getting to us.
So over the years i have spent countless hours making changes to sleds to accommodate weaker rider's.
The biggest thing is making the sled feel easy to them, so bar height is important. Have them stand on the running boards feet in the pocket's elbows against the body. The forearms should be at 90deg to the body. Doing so will make them stand straight and not hunch over the sled, especially on off cambers.
When a rider is hunch he is essentially off balance and the sled will do what it wants.
Ski stance is also important, make it narrow, 36, even 34"if you can. I have my wife sled set up at 35" now with the ability to go to 34 if i have too.
Rear skid set up is very important, you need to make the sled feel light. Even a heavy sled can be made to feel light simply by cranking up the center shock. This will lighted the ski pressure and the rider will feel more confident as he won't be fighting the sled. A new rider won't be chute climbing so you can soften the rear and as they get better you can slowly readjust thing to their abilities.
My wife goes pretty much anywhere we go and her setup is similar to what i just described, the only thing is she tires out quicker then we do, after a 7-8hr day LOL.

As i did to my SW and my wife's Cat you might need to replace the center spring with a heavier one, it makes a huge difference in picking up the front weight.


Thanks for the reply...yeah crank up the center spring more I think and make it narrower so it easy for them. I always found the pro harder to throw over even when I rode one...compared to the T3 and SW. the camo extreme sure helped with traction compared to the stock track.

Wonder if the promotion would be worth a try also.
 

Lund

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Thanks for the reply...yeah crank up the center spring more I think and make it narrower so it easy for them. I always found the pro harder to throw over even when I rode one...compared to the T3 and SW. the camo extreme sure helped with traction compared to the stock track.

Wonder if the promotion would be worth a try also.

I would try to teach him without the use of suspension gimmicks, in the long run he will become a better rider. jmo
 

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I’ve gone through this with my 3 kids and have done similar things. A couple of things I did find that worked real well was the addition of good, adjustable shocks. Also I have changed the length of the front strap to remove ski pressure. Have never narrowed the front end but you might consider just using offset spindles so you don’t have to change a arms. I think I would be cautious about cranking up the front spring too high as you might make things too stiff. Bars are kind of a feel thing. As Lund points out you don’t want to be reaching for them but worse could be having them tall and pushing away in a side hill. Lots of testing required. Have fun.
 

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I’ve gone through this with my 3 kids and have done similar things. A couple of things I did find that worked real well was the addition of good, adjustable shocks. Also I have changed the length of the front strap to remove ski pressure. Have never narrowed the front end but you might consider just using offset spindles so you don’t have to change a arms. I think I would be cautious about cranking up the front spring too high as you might make things too stiff. Bars are kind of a feel thing. As Lund points out you don’t want to be reaching for them but worse could be having them tall and pushing away in a side hill. Lots of testing required. Have fun.

I agree with TDR, making sure the limiter straps are out to max length is important in combination with center spring tension.
The stiffness of the center spring isn't so much a concern but the amount of ski pressure is, the more you tension the center spring the more you remove steering effeort. So be careful not to over tension to a point of steering lost but it has been my experience that steering lost is unlikely unless you replaced the spring with an extra stiff one.
I personally like to set up my sleds so to steer with body language on trail and not just steering, so my sleds are set up pretty light on the steering, could be why i'm so slow on the trail but that work's pretty awesome off trail.
I've alway's said there are 2 stance on a sled, ski stance and track stance. You want easy handling set up for track stance, ski stance is for casual trail riding, for a mountain sled imo.
Thats how you can make a 600+lbs Yami handle like a 450lb Poo, its all in the set up and it takes time to get it right.
 

Turblue

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I’ve gone through this with my 3 kids and have done similar things. A couple of things I did find that worked real well was the addition of good, adjustable shocks. Also I have changed the length of the front strap to remove ski pressure. Have never narrowed the front end but you might consider just using offset spindles so you don’t have to change a arms. I think I would be cautious about cranking up the front spring too high as you might make things too stiff. Bars are kind of a feel thing. As Lund points out you don’t want to be reaching for them but worse could be having them tall and pushing away in a side hill. Lots of testing required. Have fun.

pro doesnt have adjustable limiter strap ...who makes the offset spindles for a pro?
 

TDR

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Actually you can adjust the strap but it requires you to make a new hole in the strap. Simple mod. Check with TethAir on here. I believe he has a set for sale.
 

Turblue

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Actually you can adjust the strap but it requires you to make a new hole in the strap. Simple mod. Check with TethAir on here. I believe he has a set for sale.


I like the idea of the offset spindle compared to a arms and shortening shocks.
 

Turblue

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Found a set of zbroz offset spindles. Try this and see how it affects the handling for him.
 

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I have my 14 year old son on a 12 600 Pro rmk 155 with 2.5 camo extreme track. He’s been riding since he was 8 years old. Rides probably 6-7 times a year in the mountains. I’m struggling to get this Pro to handle well for him. Seems like there’s excessive ski pressure. I’ve tightened up the centerskid shock 2/3 ....running the ski shocks not really tight, and set the rear shock sag to his weight. His rider weight is probably lower than the stock shocks range. I was also thinking a iceage promotion would help him getting the sled on edge.

Some days I think a 163 would be more forgiving in the soft snow.

The 2012 had tipped up rails in the rear and should have less ski pressure due to this. The problem was you couldn't keep the nose down compared to the newer Pro's. The 12 was however a bit heavier than 13+ and had chaincase etc. If your sled has e-start, ditch it and put a light exhaust can on. I agree on the offset spindles in too but the 12 may have thicker hardware for mounting but if they fit it would for sure make it easier to ride. Finally handlebar position is important Make sure they are in line or ever so slightly forward of the steering post. The other advice given is good here too
 

Turblue

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The 2012 had tipped up rails in the rear and should have less ski pressure due to this. The problem was you couldn't keep the nose down compared to the newer Pro's. The 12 was however a bit heavier than 13+ and had chaincase etc. If your sled has e-start, ditch it and put a light exhaust can on. I agree on the offset spindles in too but the 12 may have thicker hardware for mounting but if they fit it would for sure make it easier to ride. Finally handlebar position is important Make sure they are in line or ever so slightly forward of the steering post. The other advice given is good here too

yeah spindles fit right on. It does have e start and I have a can. So could shed some weight there. Honestly with way my buddies axys handles for him thinking of going that route. 163. See how these spindles work I guess
 

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Well ditched the offset spindles and pro motion and trying zbroz 36” with shortened shocks. My daughter will be riding this in the next year or 2 and seeing if it makes it handle easier. I’m hoping with no sway bar and the lighter riders on there I can get the front shocks spring tension set to limit the ski dive. May try a set of raptor springs also.

Since my son is still riding it ....I ditched the electric start to see if the weight savings makes a difference.

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Turblue

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Anyone have a set of zbroz dual rate springs for the front ski shocks? Looking for a set.
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Teth-Air

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I read that a lot of the advice is to go narrow front suspension and tighten the center shock. I know a good rider appreciates this but honestly most newer riders just want a predictable planted feel for a sled and rather steer round instead of counter steering and rolling the sled up to turn. If your son is ready to step up his riding game and get aggressive the narrow tippy sled will work but if he is not ready just buy him a Ski-Doo. The Doo is a great sled for steering around slowly as the steering is light and he can push down to turn instead of forward and back. I am interested in why you did not like the Z-bros offset spindles?
 

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I was planning on ditching this pro for a xm due to the easy handling of the xm. The offset spindles worked ok, but I figured I’d try a 36” with shorted shocks. My daughter will be riding this sled soon and wanted the sled to be more reactive to rider input instead of the planted feeling.

Also with a lighter rider i figure the dual or triple rate springs would be better for rider input
 
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Turblue

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Well after some seat time I can say that the sled is 100% better. Ditching that sway bar, zbroz arms&dual rate springs and shorting the stock shocks made that sled easier to ride. Even on the trail I was expecting it to dive more but no issues. I’ve personally rode it a couple days plus my son and we both agree it’s way better.

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