2006 F7 rear suspension choice *pics* advice needed.

Justin8485

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Hey guys! So I have 2 complete skids for my new sled which is a 2006 F7. I'm 5.9 170lbs most of my riding will be trails with some ditch banging. I want it to be comfortable and also be able to take some small jumps etc...

both shocks set ups are suppose to have low miles on them. One has the reservoir going to both shocks and the other has no reservoir. Please chime in if you know out of the 2 I have which is better for me. And also, can I adjust the psi in the shocks with the reservoir? (i don't see any valve stem)
Both of these shock setups are suppose to be on the newer low miles side.... I have not driven this sled yet.


Here are the reservoir setup,
shock1.jpg shock2.jpg shock3.jpg

Here is no reservoir:
shock4.jpg shock5.jpg

Also which limiting strap hole should I have my skid at, there are two holes on this skid,
skid strap.jpg

Thanks!!!
 

ippielb

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I would run the shocks with out the reservoir, the one with both shocks connected is a cross link shock, it is from a snopro race sled, it is not much fun for ditch bagging, it keeps the skis down like no other. IF your into the whoops and aggressive trail riding that might be an alright shock for you.

As for the limiter strap, the tighter you have the strap, the more ski pressure you will keep, the looser the more the weight will transfer to the back.

Also if you havent already, take off the suspension limiting blocks on the back, makes for a better ride off trail.
 

Justin8485

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Thanks! good to know. So I should run w/o reservoir and keep the limiter strap where it is, so it technically should handle good for trails. Whats a fair price to ask for a rear skid with the cross link susp? And by the rear blocks, you mean those cube looking plastic ones ahead of the track tension bolts'?
 

ippielb

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couplingblock.jpg


The thing labeled coupling block, take that off to get more weight transfer, leave it on to keep the ski's down. You can adjust the block by rotating it limiting the amount the rear swing arm moves.

No one really wants the cross link setup, you can take them in and get a shop to remove the cross link, thats what most do. But that requires getting them rebuilt and valved.

Running without the reservoir and where the limiting strap how its set up, is the factory settings from arctic cat, it does well yes, if you don't have a sway bar on the front a arms, i have an extra one i took off my sled, it's good for trail riding. not so much for jumping and ditch banging.

And a side note, the shocks that you adjust the pressure, are the floats, not the fox zero pro's like you have.
 

Justin8485

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nice, So for my weight and height for a good multi purpose overall rear set up what do you personally recommend? 1.where to have limiter strap 2.coupling blocks 3.spring block position. I might have a sway bar on the front but I'm not sure.

Thanks for your Help!!!
 

ippielb

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I run with the limiter strap as loose as it goes, the coupler is not even on my sled, spring block position was at its hardest. I ride my sled off trail all the time.

For you i'd leave the limiter strap where it is, the coupler in the shortest position so it offers the most transfer but still limits, and the spring block in the middle position(not hardest or softest but in the middle). See how you like that, then if you find the rear end too soft when jumping turn the spring block to the hardest, you can also change this on the trail under the front of the seat there will be a tool bag, use the spark plug tool and the screw driver to turn the spring block to adjust.
 

Justin8485

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AWWEOME THANKS, my skid is out now. I forgot to ask about the front rear fox shock, right now it seems pretty cranked up.... I'm going to loosed it all the way and then snug it back up. How snug should I tighten it?
 

ippielb

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Count how many threads and wen you snug it back up go a few less threads showing. It's all personal preference your weight and riding style have lot to do with it.
 
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