09 Dragon mods, with reason and pics

[Polar Express]

Started this thread on another site, folks wrote that they liked it, so I thought I'd share it here.

Mods to my 09 D8

I initially posted this on a different site. Some on that site said they liked the write up, and since I’m a happy new member here, I thought I might share my build here too. The old site locked my post, so I couldn’t edit it, so I made the changes before posting here.

As some of you know, I recently picked up an 09 Dragon 800, 163”. This sled is used, with 1K miles on it, but in nice shape. I decided to chronicle what mods I did, and why.

I started with a used, 09 D8, 163 : I wanted more power than my M7, the best local dealer is Skagit Valley, & they don’t sell ‘Cat. I’m not brand loyal, but I am dealer loyal.

Better Boards: OE boards suck for snow build up, this solves the problem. I believe in the powdercoat option.

Ch-Ex track : Works best in the snow and conditions in the areas we do most of our riding

To be continued...
PE

 

[Polar Express]

...continued from above.

FTX D&R kit : To clear room for Ch-Ex track with stock driver diameter. It’s a good kit. Straightforward install. The template you see in the first pic is supposed to be removed after your cutting and drilling is done.

Avid drivers : I prefer my drivers to have extrovert features, Avid has great customer support. I had heard stories of ice build-up in-between the center and outer OE drivers, and some negative issues that resulted. I didn’t want to deal with that, so I went with Avid drivers. After pressing the drivers in place, I painted my driveshaft. I think it looks cleaner, and hopefully, it will reduce corrosion.

SLP Anti-Stab kit : With the addition of extrovert drivers, anti-stab kits come highly recommended. I thought about making my own, but decided that the time required, it would be smarter to just buy one. Here’s an close-up pic of the test fit, prior to sending the skid out for powdercoating.

SLP can : Removes weight, and preserves warranty on update. Found one used, in good shape, so it was easy choice

SLP air horn : Opens up air restriction to air plenum. This can never be bad. The recommend to leave the interior of the plenum box stock, and I did.

to be continued...
PE

 

[Polar Express]

...continued from above.

2 Cool Vents : I believe all sleds benefit from venting, and 2 Cool makes high quality vents. I chose dash vent for more air into the engine, shock and knee and side vents to get rid of the underhood heat for prolonged belt life. Here are completed pics of the vents I did.

Heat tape : I also removed insulation foam, and applied heat tape to the underside of my hood. I got the tape from Home Depot, and it’s made by Nashua (sp?). It’s about $17/roll, and I think I could do 2-3 sleds with one roll.

Powdercoat skid : I took the skid apart, and had the parts powdercoated. I got the idea from Jkinzer, in his thread about his gf’s sled, and asked him about it. He recommended it for both looks and function, reducing the amount of snow that collects in the skid. It does look cool, and I can say that in my first ride this year (wet snow) I had 1/3 the snow build up as the same sled my friend had. I was amazed. Thanks Jkinzer!

375/47* Polaris Springs: Did this mod after my first ride on the sled. It bottomed out a lot, and I’m a larger guy (210#s). Curt @ FTX recommends it, and it sure sits better than it did before. Unfortunately, it will be a few weeks until I can offer a ride test, I just had arm surgery.

Fly risers : Started with a block, but I needed more height, so I went with Fly. Since the caps have flat tops, I can convert to studs and nuts, rather than allen bolts, thus allowing stronger clamping force. Here are some pics of the risers with OE hardware, and then studs.

to be continued....
PE

 

[Polar Express]

...continued from above.

Studs in the risers : I could not find studs of the exact length and configuration I wanted, so I found grade 10.8 bolts (Fly risers use metric threads) cut the heads off, and chased the threads. I used 271 threadlocker to secure the studs into the risers, then flanged locknuts on the caps. By using studs, I can generate much stronger clamping forces. Works good so far. These bars are tall! Wondering if I went too far for riding function, but the studs sure seem to provide enough clamp force to hold them in place.

Brake line adapters : Needed longer brake line with my super-duper tall risers, so I went with banjo conversions and a traditional inverted flare line, resulting in the lowest overall cost.

RSI bar ends and ODI ruffian grips : Personal preference

OE tether switch : Decided it was about time I started using a tether, for engine preservation since I fall off a lot. It's not the one I really wanted, but it's better than nothing.

Mountain Addiction track rack : Clean modular system for carrying extra fuel, and a tunnel bag is in the works. No pics yet, I’ll get them up when the parts arrive.

Took off stickers : This is good for at least 10 HP, right?

Muff pot : I’d rather have a muff pot than a hot-dogger.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
PE

 

[dragon]

Did you do any electrical or throttle cable extensions to get that riser to work besides brakeline?

 

[Sledtillded]

...continued from above.

Studs in the risers : I could not find studs of the exact length and configuration I wanted, so I found grade 10.8 bolts (Fly risers use metric threads) cut the heads off, and chased the threads. I used 271 threadlocker to secure the studs into the risers, then flanged locknuts on the caps. By using studs, I can generate much stronger clamping forces. Works good so far. These bars are tall! Wondering if I went too far for riding function, but the studs sure seem to provide enough clamp force to hold them in place.

Brake line adapters : Needed longer brake line with my super-duper tall risers, so I went with banjo conversions and a traditional inverted flare line, resulting in the lowest overall cost.

RSI bar ends and ODI ruffian grips : Personal preference

OE tether switch : Decided it was about time I started using a tether, for engine preservation since I fall off a lot. It's not the one I really wanted, but it's better than nothing.

Mountain Addiction track rack : Clean modular system for carrying extra fuel, and a tunnel bag is in the works. No pics yet, I’ll get them up when the parts arrive.

Took off stickers : This is good for at least 10 HP, right?

Muff pot : I’d rather have a muff pot than a hot-dogger.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
PE

Great info and thanks for the post. I just bought a 09 D8 163 and have just installed a set of shock tower vents similiar to yours. the question i have is it looks like the mesh material is small enough to keep snow dust out but have you ridden this set up yet and will it keep the snow out of the belt and clutch ? after i did my install i was wondering if i should have put some frog Skin on the inside to ensure no issues. Thoughts ?

 

[sledneck_03]

another must have apparently is a powercommander 5 with the dynoport reaserch map......gives it the true 154hp and makes it more reliable. if you get the slp single set up map apparently dyno'd at 162-165hp