Recent content by Toy4Fun

I got the manual and still can't figure out the two hoses to the right and left above the oil pump. The center one is for the fuel pump so I figure the other two are vacuum also? But I can only find one line.

I picked up a 2008 Summit 800R with the motor out and I replaced the E and S modules and braced it. I need some pics of a Summit with the covers off, especially on the top of the motor behind the can and behind the carbs to try to figure out the routing of the fuel lines, sensor wires, cables...

I've been using 5 minute epoxy available at any hardware or auto parts store, it works good.

Ok, so I've changed the caliper and took off the extended brake line, then re bled the system thinking I would solve the issue. They still locked up and overheated on my last ride... could the master cylinder be causing this? It seems to pump just fine though. I'm at a loss for what to do next...

That makes sense, so add the fluid at the caliper and bleed it backwards. Sounds like it would work, I'll try it and see if I can get some air out.

I've got a brakes issue hopefully someone can help. I extended my brake line 10" to put a 8" riser on my 1997 Summit. Now my brakes start cooking when I'm running down the trail or playing in the powder, it's like my brake fluid is boiling. If i crack the bleeder it will loosen up for 5-10...

I just put a 151 x 2" track on my 1997 Summit 670 (great upgrade). What are some clutching tips as far as weights, spring, secondary, helix etc? I'm riding mainly sea level with some mountains up here in Alaska. My machine has HAC system still and engine is basically stock.

There are 4 rivets per side that hold the sway bar bushing to the tub, drill them out and remove the bushings. I removed the trailing arms to free up the sway bar, then it comes out pretty easy. It rides much better without it.

Hmm, I tested the 4 pin plug at the tach with a 12 volt test light and all the wires have power... The tach's light works as well as the other lights on the machine.

The tach is not working on the '97 summit 670 that I purchased this summer. I have the manual and if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly the tachometer is fed by the voltage regulator? So far I've tested the wires down from the cowling to the tub- I even replaced that section with a spare...

Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. I'm still fairly new to snowmachines, I grew up on dirt bikes and they have a different riding position. I'll probably need a new set of straight bars to get the Lazy L arm position.

So where does the steering post usually bend? Can I jam another tube down the center and weld it to reinforce it? What is the best fix? thanks

So I decided to put risers on my 1997 Summit 670. My friend was really generous and gave me a set of 6-8" Rox adjustable risers and t bar mount. They are too wide for my stock bars and the clamps hit on the bends in the bar. I have a set of FLY aluminum mountain type bars with 3" rise in them...

Was wondering what bend and which bar is your favorite? I have a 6-8" Rox riser on my Summit 670 and wondering if an RSI straight bar 10* setback or backcountry bend would be best?

I wrecked my 1996 Summit 670 last winter and just got around to fixing it this week. I noticed oil in my carburetor when I pulled the airbox, I pulled the carbs and found the crank case is full of oil and my reservoir is almost empty. Has anyone had this problem? Is it the inner crank seals...