Ski Doo xm 800 turbo with powderfreaks head

[kingcat162]

Picked up this head in Feb of 2019 - couple trips to the mountains - vicinity of 1500kms I think - paid $640 for it - originally got sent wrong domes - got the right ones - sall good - ya it's boosted - 7-8lbs big deal - I dunno am I wrong to think this should lasted longer before it cracked and let antifreeze into PTO piston - I thought it was head gaskets so I changed those in the parking lot at Joe schmucks pulled motor out to investigate

 

[rknight111]

Your still fixing that, you were working on that in the parking lot that night in February.

 

[maxwell]

Weren’t you saying you were gonna run 15lbs of boost at 2500ft at the drag races? Bet that’s what happened lol. That factory boost lookin pretty good now eh

 

[rknight111]

Weren’t you saying you were gonna run 15lbs of boost at 2500ft at the drag races? Bet that’s what happened lol. That factory boost lookin pretty good now eh

Just stirring it

 

[kingcat162]

Your still fixing that, you were working on that in the parking lot that night in February.

It sat all summer - decided to pull it apart and see what's up

 

[kingcat162]

Weren’t you saying you were gonna run 15lbs of boost at 2500ft at the drag races? Bet that’s what happened lol. That factory boost lookin pretty good now eh

I'll take 8lbs wrecking **** all day over 165hp - I'll run my kingcat with twins if I gotta at least it's got more than 165hp - even if it has a clam shell hood - born in 1980 bud - they don't make anything tuff e nuff for this guy nowadays

 

[kingcat162]

It let go on the trail ride up eagles in Feb of 2020 last day of a 6 day trip - nothing was out of the ordinary - I tried riding it all day but had to cut out at noon and head back because it kept pushing all the water out the overflow from overpressure on the coolant system - the little lines that are carved into the dome are just about wore off on mag side - kicking myself I didn't go with a RK Tek head instead - seen a powderfreaks head at sledderz in March of 2019 on an xm and it was completely fukt - took my motor out thinking it was the cylinder that was cracked - gonna see if Mott's in EDM will modify my stock head or something I dunno - anyone wanna buy a powderfreaks head for an xm cuz it's dead to me

 

[ctd]

I learned & it was explained me why the stock head is designed the way it is. It protects from detonation & makes very good sustainable power for those long relentless load conditions.

I've tried a multitude of different heads over the years, including the RK. Modified stock heads retaining the same design always out preformed the others in all aspects. Never have tried modifying a stock head in turbo application or have believed there is a need. Compression looks after itself moving into the elevation, the anti detonation design makes it good choice.

It would be easy to increase the squish on the stock if that is what you are thinking of. Modifying the squish band would change the design that makes the head good. Increasing the squish clearance would help reduce the compression ratio, there is also a power ramification of doing that......maybe Mots would be able give you a better idea the trade off.

 

[kingcat162]

All I know is pushing 8 lbs with the stock head - it was a finicky popping and farting pile of **** - put the powderfreaks head and it was night and day - octane didn't matter as much played with a few different fuels - didn't pop at all with the powderfreaks - but with stocker I was running 100%AV gas - I wonder if I should try slapping the stocker back on and run race 50/50 - I dunno what to do fml I still might just run the ol dinosaur cat all this winter FML - the av kept destroying my 02 sensor in 100kms - I've got a box full of nuked 02 sensors - powderfreaks changes the angle of the spark plug and has the lines carved into it - and I think the volume of the combustion area might be a bit bigger - those 3 things that are different from a stock head are what a boosted sled needs - I dunno I might put the freaks back on with a new dome and hope for the best - detonation on an xm sends the reeds on a full on Larry enticer full send - like full on - cages folded like an empty Busch can - gonna get the crank looked at and new seals and repack the bearings and anything else - maybe new wossners - and stop there till I got this head figured out

 

[Bnorth]

Have you actually tried calling Duane at PF and talking to him about the cracked dome?

 

[kingcat162]

Have you actually tried calling Duane at PF and talking to him about the cracked dome?

He's sending me a new dome free of charge - I have zero bad things to say about Duanne at all - as for the material the dome is made out of ....

 

[kfaz123]

All I know is pushing 8 lbs with the stock head - it was a finicky popping and farting pile of **** - put the powderfreaks head and it was night and day - octane didn't matter as much played with a few different fuels - didn't pop at all with the powderfreaks - but with stocker I was running 100%AV gas - I wonder if I should try slapping the stocker back on and run race 50/50 - I dunno what to do fml I still might just run the ol dinosaur cat all this winter FML - the av kept destroying my 02 sensor in 100kms - I've got a box full of nuked 02 sensors - powderfreaks changes the angle of the spark plug and has the lines carved into it - and I think the volume of the combustion area might be a bit bigger - those 3 things that are different from a stock head are what a boosted sled needs - I dunno I might put the freaks back on with a new dome and hope for the best - detonation on an xm sends the reeds on a full on Larry enticer full send - like full on - cages folded like an empty Busch can - gonna get the crank looked at and new seals and repack the bearings and anything else - maybe new wossners - and stop there till I got this head figured out

ive got 7000km booseted on my 2015 t3 800 with a impulse turbo setup i run 8 psi on stock head with a mixture of 40% av and 60% 94. she runs clean no popping farting. no det issues. i run stock reeds with doubled up half reeds on the outside pedals for best response. i check them every year they are always fine. all those kms are on a stock engine. i replaced my pistons at 3500kms with oem as preventive maintenance and they looked like brand new when i pulled them out. clutching is everything on a etec 800 turbo im not sure who`s turbo kit you are running but the only time i had any det issues was when i first install the kit. most people dont load the engine hard enough with proper clutching and dont realize they are hitting the rpm rate of increase protection in the stock ecu. which causes the sled to pop and fart and cut out back fire and destroy reed cages. i change my wide band o2 once a year as preventive maintenance and i put at least 1000km to 1200km on the sled every season. the only thing that i find kills my o2s instantly is if i roll the sled just right and i get snow down inside the exhaust and it melts and hits my o2 before i get the sled rolled over. this will crack the element in the o2 when it smoking hot with such a quick temp change. but that's a rare occurrence

 

[kingcat162]

ive got 7000km booseted on my 2015 t3 800 with a impulse turbo setup i run 8 psi on stock head with a mixture of 40% av and 60% 94. she runs clean no popping farting. no det issues. i run stock reeds with doubled up half reeds on the outside pedals for best response. i check them every year they are always fine. all those kms are on a stock engine. i replaced my pistons at 3500kms with oem as preventive maintenance and they looked like brand new when i pulled them out. clutching is everything on a etec 800 turbo im not sure who`s turbo kit you are running but the only time i had any det issues was when i first install the kit. most people dont load the engine hard enough with proper clutching and dont realize they are hitting the rpm rate of increase protection in the stock ecu. which causes the sled to pop and fart and cut out back fire and destroy reed cages. i change my wide band o2 once a year as preventive maintenance and i put at least 1000km to 1200km on the sled every season. the only thing that i find kills my o2s instantly is if i roll the sled just right and i get snow down inside the exhaust and it melts and hits my o2 before i get the sled rolled over. this will crack the element in the o2 when it smoking hot with such a quick temp change. but that's a rare occurrence

What are you running for clutching?

 

[kfaz123]

What are you running for clutching?

im running dj`s turbo clutching with 2mm oversized rollers. 2.33:1 gearing tki belt drive. but i found my turbo setup comes on so hard in the midrange i was still having issues with rate of rpm increase. i had to run so much pin weight to get the midrange under control the sled was lazy on the bottom and i was loosing top end rpms, so i switch to a 160/320 from the supplied 200/290 to load the bottom end better and get my top end rpms from falling down. this stopped my top end rpms from coming down when wot and helped the bottom and mid a bit but it was still lazier than i would of liked so i ended up going to a thundershift adjustable arm that i can independently load the bottom. midrange and top end. after alot of adjustment and playing around the sled ripps pulls super hard no longer hits rpm rate of increase and has been flawless ever since. i would have to look at my notes but my total arm weight is damn heavy lol

 

[kingcat162]

im running dj`s turbo clutching with 2mm oversized rollers. 2.33:1 gearing tki belt drive. but i found my turbo setup comes on so hard in the midrange i was still having issues with rate of rpm increase. i had to run so much pin weight to get the midrange under control the sled was lazy on the bottom and i was loosing top end rpms, so i switch to a 160/320 from the supplied 200/290 to load the bottom end better and get my top end rpms from falling down. this stopped my top end rpms from coming down when wot and helped the bottom and mid a bit but it was still lazier than i would of liked so i ended up going to a thundershift adjustable arm that i can independently load the bottom. midrange and top end. after alot of adjustment and playing around the sled ripps pulls super hard no longer hits rpm rate of increase and has been flawless ever since. i would have to look at my notes but my total arm weight is damn heavy lol

Track length?

 

[kfaz123]

Track length?

used to be a 174 3" with 3 inch pitch from the factory i am running a factory 175 3" with a 3.5 pitch now

 

[kingcat162]

I had no idea they had an rpm rate of increase built in - that's probably what my issue has been all along - I've been going the other way with my clutching ffs

 

[kingcat162]

used to be a 174 3" with 3 inch pitch from the factory i am running a factory 175 3" with a 3.5 pitch now

With the 160 down low spring rate and the heavy pin weight does it wanna take off at idle? Engagement rpm?

 

[kfaz123]

With the 160 down low spring rate and the heavy pin weight does it wanna take off at idle? Engagement rpm?

rate of rpm increase protection is there to try and protect your engine when you blow a belt, it retards ignition timing heavily to stop rpm increase so you dont twist a crank when your engine goes from being heavily loaded to unloaded when the belt leaves the building. unfortunately when you are under boost and the ignition timing retards that much it acts like two step and you get backfiring. engagement is 3600rpm which is awesome for picking through the trees in deep powder without digging holes everywhere when moving slow. unless you wanna dig a hole then pin it and she will slice a hole to china. i have arms in my clutch that are adjustable in the bottom end. mid range and top end. (ie i can change the weight individually in these areas) so i can have light weight down low for stock like engagement but still have heavy load in the mid range to keep the rate of rpm increase under control as boost comes on so hard and slightly less heavy load in the top. so i don't have to run ludacris pin weight anymore. i get 100kmh in a climb no problem. but rips my arms off in the mid range i love it. 800 etecs turbos are finicky to clutch and thats why everyone says that dont work with turbos which is bull. they work great if you get your clutching right and 99% of the time every 800 etec turbo that doesnt run right is clutching seconded by blown reeds and cages cause they were never clutched right in the first place. get your clutching right and your rpms under control and and you will never replace reeds or cages. this is all stuff that took me awhile of testing to get down when i first got the kit going cause no one seems to know and the guys that know wont tell yah. i never blow belts. i do wear out 1 belt a season based on minimum width spec when measuring belt width every year

 

[kingcat162]

rate of rpm increase protection is there to try and protect your engine when you blow a belt, it retards ignition timing heavily to stop rpm increase so you dont twist a crank when your engine goes from being heavily loaded to unloaded when the belt leaves the building. unfortunately when you are under boost and the ignition timing retards that much it acts like two step and you get backfiring. engagement is 3600rpm which is awesome for picking through the trees in deep powder without digging holes everywhere when moving slow. unless you wanna dig a hole then pin it and she will slice a hole to china. i have arms in my clutch that are adjustable in the bottom end. mid range and top end. (ie i can change the weight individually in these areas) so i can have light weight down low for stock like engagement but still have heavy load in the mid range to keep the rate of rpm increase under control as boost comes on so hard and slightly less heavy load in the top. so i don't have to run ludacris pin weight anymore. i get 100kmh in a climb no problem. but rips my arms off in the mid range i love it. 800 etecs turbos are finicky to clutch and thats why everyone says that dont work with turbos which is bull. they work great if you get your clutching right and 99% of the time every 800 etec turbo that doesnt run right is clutching seconded by blown reeds and cages cause they were never clutched right in the first place. get your clutching right and your rpms under control and and you will never replace reeds or cages. this is all stuff that took me awhile of testing to get down when i first got the kit going cause no one seems to know and the guys that know wont tell yah. i never blow belts. i do wear out 1 belt a season based on minimum width spec when measuring belt width every year

So you've got a Tra 3? With adjustable ramps? U lost me sorry