Rave gasket

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Changed the rave valve rod housing gasket on a friends sled yesterday for the first time. Was leaking very badly due to botched installation by the dealer.
Am I missing a shortcut? What a cluster of a procedure.
Main frustration was the lack of slack in the wiring to remove the housing cover, which in turn led to the awkwardness of removing/installing the bolted on wiring to the oil pump. Seems a pretty trivial way to assemble such a critical component.
A lot of wiring and components to remove in general to gain access. Probably worth the effort to partially removing the steering post if I were to do it again as well. Seems excessively complicated considering cleaning the valves is a maintenance item.
Did our best to minimize any air in the oil lines and ran the summerization 3 times. Should this be sufficient?

 

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Changed the rave valve rod housing gasket on a friends sled yesterday for the first time. Was leaking very badly due to botched installation by the dealer.
Am I missing a shortcut? What a cluster of a procedure.
Main frustration was the lack of slack in the wiring to remove the housing cover, which in turn led to the awkwardness of removing/installing the bolted on wiring to the oil pump. Seems a pretty trivial way to assemble such a critical component.
A lot of wiring and components to remove in general to gain access. Probably worth the effort to partially removing the steering post if I were to do it again as well. Seems excessively complicated considering cleaning the valves is a maintenance item.
Did our best to minimize any air in the oil lines and ran the summerization 3 times. Should this be sufficient?

There is nothing easy to work on a newer Doo except maybe the chaincase. They have done their best to make sure you just give up and go to your dealer to get any service done

 

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The seals on the stem shafts are the normal problem, not so much the gasket.

No need to remove the steering post & I don't follow the oil pump wiring you mentioned. You just take your time, get stuff out of the way, lay a couple of shop towels over the Y Pipe.....when they springs & various component's come apart they don't land under the engine.

There is a procedure for tightening the link bar, in the end the valves should move up/down smoothly.

Oiling to the valves is not as critical as it is to a fresh motor so your storage mode will be ample to purge the small amount of air.

The step you missed is the re sync of the valves, there is a window of operation for each of the three positions they operate in. As well the sensor reports back to the ECU they are in the position commanded. You will most likely get away without doing this, if you have some running issue's it will need to be done.

If you are going to do this sort of thing, you could pick up a MapTune box. It will do most things the BUDS dealer diagnostic's will do & flash various performance tunes. You can also use it for all BRP products & other manufactures. It's portable, unlike BUDS you can pack it on the hill.

 

[greenthumb]

The seals on the stem shafts are the normal problem, not so much the gasket.

No need to remove the steering post & I don't follow the oil pump wiring you mentioned. You just take your time, get stuff out of the way, lay a couple of shop towels over the Y Pipe.....when they springs & various component's come apart they don't land under the engine.

There is a procedure for tightening the link bar, in the end the valves should move up/down smoothly.

Oiling to the valves is not as critical as it is to a fresh motor so your storage mode will be ample to purge the small amount of air.

The step you missed is the re sync of the valves, there is a window of operation for each of the three positions they operate in. As well the sensor reports back to the ECU they are in the position commanded. You will most likely get away without doing this, if you have some running issue's it will need to be done.

If you are going to do this sort of thing, you could pick up a MapTune box. It will do most things the BUDS dealer diagnostic's will do & flash various performance tunes. You can also use it for all BRP products & other manufactures. It's portable, unlike BUDS you can pack it on the hill.

Thanks for the tips.
This was a friends '18. The wiring harness over the engine was so tight that it couldn't be pushed aside. Had to unplug everything on the left side (including oil pump) and pull the harness out of the way. There was no plug on the oil pump; 2 individual wires screwed on - one was facing the bulkhead. Ended up removing the tank/pump completely for simplicity and cleaning, so the lines to the block were disconnected too.
Figured out the part to adjust the plate to get the valves moving smoothly.
I was aware of re-sync, but talking to a mechanic friend who does this on the regular, his experience is that it isn't required unless changing the sensor.
In reality, this whole project started out as a thorough cleaning to try and find the source of the leak since the entire engine bay was soaked with oil. The not so mechanically inclined owner got a little overzealous removing bolts/parts while I was taking a leak. Knocked the springs out of place and the valves didn't want to go back in completely, so we were somewhat committed at that point.
I don't do this regularly, but I have looked at maptune. You can even find buds on amazon - supposedly including license. I'm not against spending a few bucks to have the right tools for the job and saving a trip to the dealer.