Pdrive clickers? Help plz

skegpro

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Imma little late to the pdrive game, can someone please help me clarify my thoughts here.

I want to load the engine more so I am thinking of going to clickers 4or5 from 3.
From what I understand this should increase add weight and increase low rpm clamp and thus load the engine more.

But the sticker on the clutch cover says higher rpm if you go to a higher clicker...... I am already hitting 8250 rpm......
So by that logic I should be using clicker 1 or 2?
But less weight will kick up faster.

Or Does the clicker adjustment affect ramp angle more than anything? And then a guy has to adjust pivot weight to control peak rpm? Does anyone make a set of adjustable weight pivot bolts?

Help!
I just want this thing to pull atleast as good as my ctec 800, if possible.

Majority of riding is from 1750m to 2100m.



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Caper11

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Changing the clickers changes the profile of the ramp the roller sits on.

If you want to load the pdrive more you need to add more weight, clicking up only will change the profile and make the rpm go up, and the throttle response will get better.

Lowering the clicker only, will lower MAX rpm, but that “can” also make the throttle response lazier.

So if a tuner is looking for a certain feel to the calibration, the mass on the pivot should be adjusted accordingly to run that desired clicker.




These are very good vids that explain PDrive clicker profiles.




https://youtu.be/2dCj6DHmpbA

https://youtu.be/TsNwV4ZGyjM

https://youtu.be/TbJPawxfwyA
 

Caper11

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Belt Height adjustment is also just as important, the owmers manual explains where to adjust the belt height on the 850.

The best is to adjust it on a trackstand tho.
 

Caper11

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So is it safe to assume the factory ramps have a good profile and just lack weight adjustment?

I think you have a newer NA 850, so it would of come with the 965.
There is nothing wrong with that flyweight and the profile it provides.
As far as adjustability, IMO the pDrive style flyweights provides the easiest adjustment to adjust the flyweight. Just Pull the pDrive pivot bolt out, and add or remove a spacer, bolt, etc.

Your issue is you are already overreving. Yes you are correct, you could potentially click down, but In my experience doing that at higher altitude brought negative effects with that.

Most aftermarket flyweight kits yah pull the belt off, and pry the sheaves closed to get at the flyweight.

At the end of the day, once the rpm is set correctly, there should be no playing with it afterwards, heavy snow on a warm day and the sled is down on RPM, click up to 4, or to compensate for a elevation change.
From Home in Edson at 3200 ft, I ran clicker 2. In the mtns, I ran clicker three. On my old 850, it did not like running clicker 3 at home, it would hesitate and not run correctly. It was like a “rate of rpm increase” sensor was kicking in causing the engine to spin up in Rpm too quick. The old 800 etecs had that in them as well.


The NA sleds are set on clicker three from the factory, and the turbo sleds are set on 1.
 

skegpro

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I think you have a newer NA 850, so it would of come with the 965.
There is nothing wrong with that flyweight and the profile it provides.
As far as adjustability, IMO the pDrive style flyweights provides the easiest adjustment to adjust the flyweight. Just Pull the pDrive pivot bolt out, and add or remove a spacer, bolt, etc.

Your issue is you are already overreving. Yes you are correct, you could potentially click down, but In my experience doing that at higher altitude brought negative effects with that.

Most aftermarket flyweight kits yah pull the belt off, and pry the sheaves closed to get at the flyweight.

At the end of the day, once the rpm is set correctly, there should be no playing with it afterwards, heavy snow on a warm day and the sled is down on RPM, click up to 4, or to compensate for a elevation change.
From Home in Edson at 3200 ft, I ran clicker 2. In the mtns, I ran clicker three. On my old 850, it did not like running clicker 3 at home, it would hesitate and not run correctly. It was like a “rate of rpm increase” sensor was kicking in causing the engine to spin up in Rpm too quick. The old 800 etecs had that in them as well.


The NA sleds are set on clicker three from the factory, and the turbo sleds are set on 1.
So with the turbo did you add pivot weight till you got it back to clicker 3?

And just to confirm in vale, you were running stock weights on clicker 3 on your n/a sled?
 

Caper11

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So with the turbo did you add pivot weight till you got it back to clicker 3?

And just to confirm in vale, you were running stock weights on clicker 3 on your n/a sled?

No, with the turbo I didn’t get that far with that theory on a stocker. The turbo has different flyweights than the NA. I just added pivot bolt weight to my brothers.
I now have a DJ kit in my turbo now and its on clicker 3 with his recommended flyweight for the turbo, with the stock flyweights.


No, My 19 was fully clutched. The flyweights I was running were stock pDrive style flyweights. Same theory applied as adding weight to the stock flyweights, cause the aftermarket ones I had utilized the clicker assembly.
Most aftermarket Pdrive flyweight kits delete the clickers.
Im not going to need them anymore if you or anyone else reading is interested in them.
 

skegpro

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No, with the turbo I didn’t get that far with that theory on a stocker. The turbo has different flyweights than the NA. I just added pivot bolt weight to my brothers.
I now have a DJ kit in my turbo now and its on clicker 3 with his recommended flyweight for the turbo, with the stock flyweights.


No, My 19 was fully clutched. The flyweights I was running were stock pDrive style flyweights. Same theory applied as adding weight to the stock flyweights, cause the aftermarket ones I had utilized the clicker assembly.
Most aftermarket Pdrive flyweight kits delete the clickers.
Im not going to need them anymore if you or anyone else reading is interested in them.
Gotta couple things I am gonna try first, but I may take you up on that. Thx
 
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